Perfect Oil Change Intervals Experiment

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wallacengineering

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"Now confirmed" puts a lot of conviction on something that is "just experience." Nothing proven, or thusly confirmed.
And as a mechanic - who has worked in a shop... I am supposed to care about that difference on an internet forum because...?

I don't get it, just go somewhere else if ur that offended lol 🤣

Get over it, nobody cares about any snowflakes.
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Asking for real data and not anedotal information does not make someone a snowflake. Getting annoyed that people don't accept your "confirmed" OCI without any real proof makes someone else a snowflake......
 

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And what exactly do you think forums are for? Lol sharing your experiences.

Or experiments - in this case. Just a mechanic sharing his findings. You do you, I actually use forums how they are intended to be used, sorry I guess 🤷‍♂️
I think the issue people have is the title you chose. I mean it's cool that you're documenting your personal findings and preferences in great detail. It's commendable.

"The Perfect Oil Change Intervals NOW CONFIRMED"

That title makes it sound like you've solved some deep mystery and will be signing autographs for your new upcoming book.
 

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I have owned my 2020 Civic Si 2-Door Coupe since 2021 and 9,000 miles. I just did my 40,000 mile oil change and I am going to tick over to 40,000 miles in the next couple days.

At this point I have tried 3 different oils and intervals have settled on Pennzoil Ultra-Platnum 0W-20. Why? Because Project Farm tested it independently and it has very good anti-wear properties and one of the strongest detergent/additive blends on the market which the 10th Gen Si loves to have.

In fact the only oil better for the 10th Gen Si is the Amsoil Signature series which can have slightly longer change intervals and still protect thoroughly but in my opinion that oil isn't worth the absurd cost. Amsoil Signature will cost you $80 for 5 Quarts while Pennzoil Ultra-Platnum has been under $40 for 5 Quarts every single time I have used it.

So, the intervals, what about it? Well it depends on how you drive the car but I have changed mine at 5000, 6000, and 7500 mile intervals and based on the color and my driving habits on each oil change, I have been able to come up with a few conclusions.

7500 miles is too long for me. The Pennzoil Ultra-Platnum CAN go that far but only if you drive gently or normally the entire time and basically never use full throttle or rev the engine beyond 4000 and rarely go over 3000 RPM (Even on Highways). But these are Turbo-Charged Sports cars and I don't know about you but I like to open her up from time to time and I think its pretty stupid to buy a sports car and never open it up (stares at idiot rich people with Ferraris and Lambos who have never even used HALF their available power).

So, what are the correct intervals then? Well, lets take a look at that...

If you solely drive like a grandmother and are gentle on the car always with absolutely no hard driving of any kind, you can go 7500 miles on the Pennzoil or 9000 miles on Amsoil Signature Series. When I changed my Pennzoil after 7500 miles it was nearly pitch-black because I did a large number of mountain blasts with full-throttle up to 6000 RPM gear changes throughout the oil's life. 7500 miles is simply too long when you treat the car that way, unless you want to run Amsoil Signature Series for every single oil change. The car said 15% oil life remaining at change.

However, I don't do mountain blasts every single weekend or even every other weekend. A solid 50% of the time, I baby my car and do the best I can to go easy on it while not driving like a grandmother in traffic. 35% of the time I drive very normally, maybe 2-4 MPH faster than average traffic. 10% of the time I deal with heavy traffic and use heavy throttle get into lanes when I need to. I do a mountain blast/hard drive about once a month, that is the final 5%, that and once in a while full-throttle pulls.

If you are like me, what would be considered "Typical Use Case" for a daily-driven sports car, then your interval with the Pennzoil is going to be 6000 miles. If you maybe go Full Throttle only a few times per year and only for a few seconds each time, then you can push it to 7000 miles. At 6,000 miles my Pennzoil has noticable color left in it, but not much. Its a very dark brown and near-black and thats exactly what you want. This means you used up all of the oil's life and aren't needlessly wasting it, but also you aren't going to far and letting your oil break down too far.

If you full throttle past 5000 RPM very often, like every few days, or go for mountain blasts almost every single week, then you will need to change the Pennzoil every 5000 miles, possibly a bit sooner depending on just how rough on the car you really are.

If the car is specifically a track-day car and is pushed very hard basically every time it is driven, then the Pennzoil would have to be changed probably around every 2500-3000 miles.

Obviously get a new oil filter for each change, I like Wix XP filters, they do a good job and are reasonably priced, and independent reviews with chopped filters to examine the internals in comparison to other brands have shown an above-average quality filter material that performs well, its just nothing super fancy or special.

There ya go, that should be all the info you need to determine just when you should be changing your oil in the 10th Gen SI's 👍. Please note, I have not had an issue with my oil level rising due to direct injection pushing fuel into the oil over time. I once heard this was an issue but with how I drive the car hard from time to time I actually LOSE a bit of oil over time - mind you a VERY SMALL amount. After 6000 miles and no top-offs I had only dropped from the full line on the dipstick to directly in the middle of the full line and the low level line. So maybe 1/3 or at most 1/2 of a quart was lost over 6000 miles including full-throttle mountain blasts, so I would say its nothing to be alarmed about and to be expected.

In case you were wondering, I also did basic tune-up today with new spark plugs, new air filter, cabin filter, and did its first SeaFoam cleaning both adding SeaFoam to the Crank Case 50 miles before the change and before changing the spark plugs I poured an ounce or so into each spark plug hole, re-installed the old plugs and let it soak for 15 mins, then ran it for 10 mins with several heavy-throttle revs and holding it at 3000 RPM for a couple mins to clean out the combination chambers. The amount of smoke you get on start up after a SeaFoam soak determines how much build-up was burnt off. I only got smoke for the first 2 mins and not a huge volume either, a very good sign of internal cleanliness. I probably won't have to use SeaFoam again for another 40,000-60,000 miles.

IMG_20210613_092503.jpg

IMG_20210613_092732.jpg
I change mine every 1500 and the last time I opened it up after being tuned for 44000 miles, there was not a single sign of wear on the cams. Who knows how much wear there is now that its been money shifted🤣
 
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Asking for real data and not anedotal information does not make someone a snowflake. Getting annoyed that people don't accept your "confirmed" OCI without any real proof makes someone else a snowflake......
Clearly, someone doesn't know what a snowflake is. But whatever, I don't care if anyone accepts it or not.

You do whatever you want, I couldn't care less.
 


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I change mine every 1500 and the last time I opened it up after being tuned for 44000 miles, there was not a single sign of wear on the cams. Who knows how much wear there is now that its been money shifted🤣
Damn, 1500 miles? Doesn't that seem a bit excessive? What are you drag racing every day with it?

Ouch... Money shift... 1,2,3,4,3 I take it, when you were already at redline in forth? Does it even start? You should start a thread and post pics when you can. We all wanna see it, you know that! Lol 🤣
 

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Damn, 1500 miles? Doesn't that seem a bit excessive? What are you drag racing every day with it?

Ouch... Money shift... 1,2,3,4,3 I take it, when you were already at redline in forth? Does it even start? You should start a thread and post pics when you can. We all wanna see it, you know that! Lol 🤣
It actually runs beautifully. It was 1,2,3,2 and it peaked 9800+rpm on datalog. The trans blew tho
 
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It actually runs beautifully. It was 1,2,3,2 and it peaked 9800+rpm on datalog. The trans blew tho
Wow, still runs, awesome. Honda durability for ya! Ive never had the misfortune of money-shifting anything. Hope you get her running (properly) again!

Reminds me of that old GTI. Damn I beat the hell out of that thing for so long. Nobody realizes it but GTIs are just as durable as these Civic Si's, the only difference is you gotta use European fluids and parts to keep them reliable which surprisingly is only a hair more expensive than maintaining the Civic. That and as far as I know they still use timing belts instead of chains - yuck 🤮.

They use extremely thick and wide timing belts and Ive never had one break after owning 6 GTIs and being hard on all of them. But it does mean a timing service every 100,000 miles which is a pain in the ass (ended up taking mine to a shop because the engine had to come out and these days I no longer work at a shop lol). Good time to upgrade the water pump impeller tho. I have no idea who thought plastic water impellers were a good idea but they need to be slapped lol 🤣. Always get the aluminum impeller upgrade 👍.

Also if a timing belt were to ever break - they are interference engines... So yea... They really need to just go chain lol 🤣
 

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Wow, still runs, awesome. Honda durability for ya! Ive never had the misfortune of money-shifting anything. Hope you get her running (properly) again!

Reminds me of that old GTI. Damn I beat the hell out of that thing for so long. Nobody realizes it but GTIs are just as durable as these Civic Si's, the only difference is you gotta use European fluids and parts to keep them reliable which surprisingly is only a hair more expensive than maintaining the Civic. That and as far as I know they still use timing belts instead of chains - yuck 🤮.

They use extremely thick and wide timing belts and Ive never had one break after owning 6 GTIs and being hard on all of them. But it does mean a timing service every 100,000 miles which is a pain in the ass (ended up taking mine to a shop because the engine had to come out and these days I no longer work at a shop lol). Good time to upgrade the water pump impeller tho. I have no idea who thought plastic water impellers were a good idea but they need to be slapped lol 🤣. Always get the aluminum impeller upgrade 👍.

Also if a timing belt were to ever break - they are interference engines... So yea... They really need to just go chain lol 🤣
They really are pretty durable, I was even able to drive it home 30 minutes with a whining trans. When I tore it apart, 2nd synchro collar was sheared which is surprising because it still went into second ok.
 


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They really are pretty durable, I was even able to drive it home 30 minutes with a whining trans. When I tore it apart, 2nd synchro collar was sheared which is surprising because it still went into second ok.
Huh, that is strange. Then again the trans on these are a bit odd to begin with. Ever had that weird thing where from a start it just doesn't want to go into first? Like what is with that. I either have to let up off the clutch a bit and it will go into first as I just about hit the point where the clutch starts to just barely catch the trans, or I have to slam it in so hard it feels like I could break a linkage.

What the hell is with that? Its like once or twice per day randomly and can happen cold or hot both car temp and outside temp. I thought for a sec it just needs a trans flush but its been happening since day one and I just kinda got used to it.
 

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Huh, that is strange. Then again the trans on these are a bit odd to begin with. Ever had that weird thing where from a start it just doesn't want to go into first? Like what is with that. I either have to let up off the clutch a bit and it will go into first as I just about hit the point where the clutch starts to just barely catch the trans, or I have to slam it in so hard it feels like I could break a linkage.

What the hell is with that? Its like once or twice per day randomly and can happen cold or hot both car temp and outside temp. I thought for a sec it just needs a trans flush but its been happening since day one and I just kinda got used to it.
I know exactly what your talking about, I Always just assumed the car was mad at me🤣
 
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I think the issue people have is the title you chose. I mean it's cool that you're documenting your personal findings and preferences in great detail. It's commendable.

"The Perfect Oil Change Intervals NOW CONFIRMED"

That title makes it sound like you've solved some deep mystery and will be signing autographs for your new upcoming book.
Wow, thats what they care about? Proper wording on an internet forum? And I did confirm it - the experiment anyways.

Alright fine I changed it, happy now? Lol the Internet is so dumb 🤣
 
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I know exactly what your talking about, I Always just assumed the car was mad at me🤣
Huh I thought it could just be a "me" thing. So its a thing with most of them I guess? Maybe we could try a different kind of hydraulic fluid for the brakes/clutch lines.

Like what if we try this super premium racing brake fluid and maybe it will make the clutch smoother? Although I guess if its a linkage hangup that wouldn't make any difference.

Honda Civic 10th gen Perfect Oil Change Intervals Experiment bfr-cn


IDK why but the euro brake fluid is now called "Super-DOT-4" so maybe that would be the better one? I mean come on its just brake fluid lol 🤣
 

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