Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 on sale at the Jungle

skottharrison

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I just purchased one from wally world, but a certain online retailer named after a certain jungle has it on sale for less than $21... amazing how much syn oil has come down...
Made me think, what is the shelf life of motor oil, and would it make sense to have one extra around, at this price.... At my current rate, I'm looking at 5-6 months per oil change...
https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-Ultra-Platinum-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B01M4KQR8U





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skottharrison

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I don't think I'll bother. $4 is not worth the peace of mind of having old/stale oil sitting around for a year in my garage...
But for others, I've heard nothing but good reviews of PUP. Great wear resistance...
 

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Mobil 1 has a 5-year shelf life if stored between 40 - 85 degrees F. in the sealed container, according to the company. I would imagine Penzoil would have the same, if not longer, shelf life due to the fact NG has less impurities.
 

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Mobil 1 has a 5-year shelf life if stored between 40 - 85 degrees F. in the sealed container, according to the company. I would imagine Penzoil would have the same, if not longer, shelf life due to the fact NG has less impurities.
I believe every oil vendor will say it's about 5 years.

Regardless whether the oil is conventional, synthetic, or really, really truly synthetic. The limited time is because of some additives which are not as stable as the oil itself. The oil base, whether with "impurites" or not, would last practically forever in a tightly closed container, regardles of ambient temperature. In particular if that container was a glass bottle or a tin can.
 

latole

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Temporary out of stock at amazon.

I always have great deal on my local stores.
 

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I just purchased one from wally world,
I have never seen the Pz Ultra Platinum at any brick store around here. This includes Waldemort and the several auto part store chains. Only a smal minority of car owners change their oil by themselves, and of those most seem to choose the cheapest one or a store brand. A significant fraction though prefer synthetic, it seems.
Strangely, I often see people buying quart bottles.:dunno:
 
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I have never seen the Pz Ultra Platinum at any brick store around here. This includes Waldemort and the several auto part store chains. Only a smal minority of car owners change their oil by themselves, and of those most seem to choose the cheapest one or a store brand. A significant fraction though prefer synthetic, it seems.
Strangely, I often see people buying quart bottles.:dunno:
I've always found it weird that people buy multiple quarts instead of a 5 quart jug.
I must add, it was Walmart online and I ended up going with Mobil 1 M110-A filters whereas I was a hardcore Wix XP user for the last 3 years... We'll see how the Mobil 1 filters go.
For the first few oil changes, I'm going to use 6,000 mile intervals, and after the first 20K miles, start with the MM. A shorter oil change interval would aid in flushing out all the break-in metals.
 
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break in metals?....Lol

it ain't the 70's or 80's anymore :doh:
Have you read the oil analysis thread? Unless Blackstone is in the business of telling people metals in their engine because of the break-in process, then they're always wrong?
 

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Have you read the oil analysis thread? Unless Blackstone is in the business of telling people metals in their engine because of the break-in process, then they're always wrong?
These metals Blackstone and others are talking about are not chunks of metal. They are extremely fine particles that pass right through any oil filter. They are smaller than bearing clearances. There is no need to remove them.
If the analysis shows a lot of wear metals after break in, it is recommended to dump the oil not because these metals do any harm, but because it is concluded that the used oil is no longer able to protect from wear.

For older engines, racing engines that get rebuild outside factory often, small engines like lawn mowers that don't even have oil filters, it is recommended to dump the oil early after break-in. Some actual shavings of metal are expected to be present there.
 

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I’ve ran this oil for 3,000 miles and it has turned into jello damn near in my FK8, I don’t think I’ll be running this oil ever again.
 

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I’ve ran this oil for 3,000 miles and it has turned into jello damn near in my FK8, I don’t think I’ll be running this oil ever again.
That's interesting. By itself, the oil should not turn into jello, but the problem is that oil doesn't exist by itself. There are oil additives, and with oil dilution, there are also fuel additives. There is also water and with any leak there could be coolant. Finally, there could be anything added by the owner.

Shell Pennzoil is made by the Fischer-Tropsch process so it can be called an ersatz oil. 🤓 But there is an interesting note in the MSDS. It says:
Shell said:
The highly refined mineral oil is only present as additive diluent.
What it means is that they add to their synthetic oil, made from just natural gas and water, some amount of a lower-group lowly mineral-origin oil. Why would they spoil the über-clean and über-uniform synth-oil with some refined dino-origin juice? Becaue the problem with the wonderful PAO's is that they poorly dissolve some additives.

So there are some speculation that when a bit too much stuff (like fuel additives) gets in this oil, it will not be able to dissolve in the oil, but instead will separate and be beaten with the oil to a jelly. Maybe. Besides the solubility issue, I think the PAO's, (polyalphaolefins) while being very resistant to thermal decomposition by themselves, are just potentially more reactive molecules because of their unsaturated bonds and maybe they can even polymerize under some conditions. That's one reason why I find the more conservative group III oils just optimal for me. This is a bit similar situation to the 1234-yf refrigerant, which is a hydrofluoroolefin and for this reason subject to increased reactivity and unknown interactions with other compounds, such as lubricating oils or water.
 

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I used PUP once and when I drained it for the following oil change it didn't look right. It was kind of whitish looking as if it was emulsified or it had been beaten into a froth. Also I thought my engine had an unpleasant sound (like a metallic sound) with that oil but who knows if that was real or just my imagination. In any case I went back to M1.
 

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