Pads Wear Rotors Through Normal Use? Am I crazy?

[Hanzo]

Took my Type R in for new brake pads today and was informed that "Type Rs' rotors have softer metal and just naturally wear down with pad use" at which point the dealership claimed, yep, you'll be replacing both the pads and the rotors today. $1900.

Uh, is this normal? Should I be expecting to replace the rotors EVERY brake job?

What's the true deal here?

PS. I paused the maintenance until I get the straight story.

Sponsored

 

[LBP]

$1900 just for rear pads and rotors? I can't really comment about the Type R rotors wearing more quickly, but here's my advice: run.

Run far away from that dealer and don't go back.

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

How much miles? any picture of the rotor and the pad?
You should not worry about replacing the rotor unless you have a crack or wrap.
19 or before CTR have the drilled rotor that tend to crack before the rotor wear down.

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

Also, Replacing the rotor and pads with girodisk or paragon all less than 1000. if you use stoptech then it can be even less than 600 all together.
1900 is likely bs.

 

[Hanzo]

How much miles? any picture of the rotor and the pad?
You should not worry about replacing the rotor unless you have a crack or wrap.
19 or before CTR have the drilled rotor that tend to crack before the rotor wear down.

26k miles, this will be the first brake replacement since buying it new in Sep of 2018.

Don't have a picture, but can try to get one when I pick the car up.

Have definitely halted the maintenance with that shop.

 

[AlphaDigital]

lol theyre trying to rob you blind

 

[MadMage]

I'm on my 3rd set of pads, original rotors front and rear. 2020 so I have slightly different rotors (at least the front) than you. But ask them why the rotors need replacing. If they are not cracked or below minimal thickness (which they won't be), then their is no reason to replace them. And that cost is high, get quotes and consider third party if need be.

 

[JohnInATL]

Has anybody run into brake noise caused by pad slapping the front brakes on a 2017-2019? My rotors are fine but they are starting to develop a lip around the edges at 9700 miles. I'd like to put some lower dust pads on but I feel like the lip is going to cause noise with a new pad on top of it. I am a luxury brand tech by trade and we don't pad slap for this exact reason.

As a side note for the OP, most car dealerships will generally price brakes out with pads and rotors together because they can stand behind that repair if noise or vibration becomes an issue. We do not have a lathe here and do not turn rotors for brake services, although some manufacturers do.

The general public doesn't know what they're buying so dealerships will cover their asses by avoiding potential issues later on down the road (while maximizing profits of course). I'm not defending the pricing by any means, just pointing out that dealerships, especially high volume ones, don't have time for the back and forth to save a customer a few bucks and then have to deal with possible issues from the repair later on. They price it the way they price it for a reason typically.

 

[Shankmeyster]

Third party or do it yourself for any repairs that are not warranty related if you can. You will save a LOT of money in the long run.

 

[BrandonSmith]

Brakes are too easy to replace to pay someone else to do it.

 

[FK8CW2019]

I did my rear around 26K on 19. FK8 uses more brake modulation to the rear. Parts and labor $200 bucks from a third party not Honda

 

[garoto]

Do not do them for $1900 and take your business elsewhere. And tell the dealer as much. I think you should post the dealer name here so that we can all avoid them, and so that they know that the community won't put up with their BS and we will cumulatively not go there.

 

[Hanzo]

The new plan is, after sharing this story with a friend of mine (who teaches people how to race cars on the weekends) agreed with all of you and is going to help me replace the pads.

The shop is Pro Import Denver, and I'm really bummed about it, because I went to them after I started to lose faith in the Honda dealership I had been going to, and they've been really great with both my civics (I also own an Si).

This one really threw me for a loop. I mean, honestly: "full on rotor replacement as standard procedure alongside brake pad replacement"? Completely unsustainable from an economic perspective. It's why I bought a Type R and not a GTR!

 

[garoto]

The new plan is, after sharing this story with a friend of mine (who teaches people how to race cars on the weekends) agreed with all of you and is going to help me replace the pads.

The shop is Pro Import Denver, and I'm really bummed about it, because I went to them after I started to lose faith in the Honda dealership I had been going to, and they've been really great with both my civics (I also own an Si).

This one really threw me for a loop. I mean, honestly: "full on rotor replacement as standard procedure alongside brake pad replacement"? Completely unsustainable from an economic perspective. It's why I bought a Type R and not a GTR!

Do you have photos of the rotors? My rotors have worn, they did at 5000 miles. They get soft ridges that align with every drill on the rotor.

A Honda dealership tried to charge me $2500+ and would refuse to swap the pads without doing the rotors. I of course pointed them at a stick by their service area, and told them to sit on it without any lube.

I then kept driving the car, then swapped the pads at another dealership for $250 and the car now has 43k miles trouble free. The rotor ridges are still there unchanged since 5000 miles.

No vibrations, cracks, or braking issues. I plan to ride them one more pad swap. I already bought rotors and have them on the side to replace them years from now at around 60k or 70k miles.

The beauty of a Honda is low economic maintenance. And I plan to take advantage of that.

 

[fatherpain]

@Hanzo here are links to front and rear brake pad maintenance and front rotor replacement along with brake bleed and bedding procedures.

The rear pad change procedure is important for you or your friend to be familiar with so not to ruin the calipers. I messed mine up the first go around so can attest to this. I use an Autel AP200 to put the EPB in and out of brake maintenance mode. There are also additional methods.

Have had to replace pads at around 22k miles. Street + some track.

Upgraded front rotors to Girodisc @22k miles. No more rock/dust noise since doing so.

First attempt @22k miles:

• Girodisc brake pads Post #9
• Rear brake pad and caliper change. Post #11, #13, #14, #15, #16, #17
• Sakebomb SST brakelines Post #18, #192
• Brake Safety tip when downsizing from 20’s to 18’s Post #91
• Gyrodisc front rotors and Front pad change Post #19, #20, #21, #22, #33
• Brake Bleeding Sequence Post #23
• Brake bleeding (1) person method w/Speedi-bleed Post #476
• Brake Bedding Procedure Post #23
• wheel lug torque specs Post #23

——————————
2nd cleaner attempt - revised write up @45k miles

• Front brake pad change Post #841, #842, #846,
• Gyrodisc front rotors and Front pad change Post #19, #20, #21, #22, #33
• Brembo front caliper rebuild Post #841, #844, #845, #846,
• Rear brake pad change Post #847, #848, #849, #850, #851, #852, #853, #854, #855
• Brake bleeding (1) person method Speedi-bleed kit Post #476
• Brake bleeding (2) person old school method Post #23
• Brake Bedding Procedure Post #23
• wheel lug torque specs Post #23

Sponsored