P2183 code with Sirimoto

WhiskeyTango

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Well last night I got everything to pass except for vap but then I turned it on this morning and emission light went on with the same codes. Sirimoto flex fuel kit and prl cai nothing serious
Ok, so no other emissions related parts? No downpipe?

If that's the case, I believe its a matter of flashing back to stock, and disconnecting the the FF sensor and plugging the ECT2 back in. You don't need to remove the hardware, just give the ECU back a signal from the actual ECT2 sensor, instead of whatever information the FF sensor is sending it.
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Ok, so no other emissions related parts? No downpipe?

If that's the case, I believe its a matter of flashing back to stock, and disconnecting the the FF sensor and plugging the ECT2 back in. You don't need to remove the hardware, just give the ECU back a signal from the actual ECT2 sensor, instead of whatever information the FF sensor is sending it.
Did that replugged it into the original connection only thing left on my cycle is evap and the oxygen sensor to be complete it's just taking forever idk if I'm doing it wrong
 
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Im in the same boat as you.
I have a code p1283
What makes it worse, i have the vitviper flex kit where I wired into my ecu ughhhh

any update with you?
I need to pass emission by the 28th
 


Tego0189

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Im in the same boat as you.
I have a code p1283
What makes it worse, i have the vitviper flex kit where I wired into my ecu ughhhh

any update with you?
I need to pass emission by the 28th
Yeah I passed gotta do the honda cycle loop driving it for miles doesn't just work I found that out the hard way after putting more then 500 miles on the car it just did not want to complete. Reconnected to the orginal did the honda cycle loop and everything completed except for the evap but out here in NY they allow 1 incomplete
 
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Yeah I passed gotta do the honda cycle loop driving it for miles doesn't just work I found that out the hard way after putting more then 500 miles on the car it just did not want to complete. Reconnected to the orginal did the honda cycle loop and everything completed except for the evap but out here in NY they allow 1 incomplete
damn sounds like theres no hope for mine because I cut and connected a wire for my flex it in the ECU. Its too much work to reverse it
 

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damn sounds like theres no hope for mine because I cut and connected a wire for my flex it in the ECU. Its too much work to reverse it
If you can do the Honda loop cycle and get it completed after flashing back to stock then go straight to the inspection place with out turning the car off it should pass
 

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So what? its the same problem
the problem is you have a flex fuel kit that works entirely differently from how the ones for the R do and the ways youā€™d normally get around this for emissions do not apply. Itā€™s the same problem, but different solution. Youā€™d be better off asking the basically completely separate community for your car for help. Nobody with an R splices in a kit.
 
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the problem is you have a flex fuel kit that works entirely differently from how the ones for the R do and the ways youā€™d normally get around this for emissions do not apply. Itā€™s the same problem, but different solution. Youā€™d be better off asking the basically completely separate community for your car for help. Nobody with an R splices in a kit.
Dude just stop. I got the same code because of the flex-fuel kit. Just like everyone else.
The solution is the same, except I tapped my wire at a different area. I can reverse it, except its much work. My kit was the very first development, before everyone got theirs. Just stop man. You're no help.
 


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If you can do the Honda loop cycle and get it completed after flashing back to stock then go straight to the inspection place without turning the car off it should pass
Mind sharing the honda loop cycle method? Just not entirely sure what that is. I've been driving my car for over 200 miles and I can't get the monitors to get ready: cat converter, evap system, and 02 sensor.
 

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Mind sharing the honda loop cycle method? Just not entirely sure what that is. I've been driving my car for over 200 miles and I can't get the monitors to get ready: cat converter, evap system, and 02 sensor.
Turn your car on from a Cold start or atleast sitting without being turned on for atleast 2 or 3 hours. Put the rear defrost and the ac on for 2.5 minutes or 3 minutes. Turn them both off and start driving giving it 3/4 of throttle till you hit between 55 and 60 hold without breaking for 3 minutes straight then ease of the gas and let the car hit 20 mph with out pressing the break. Then 3/4 of the throttle pressed reach again around 55 to 60 hold at that speed for 5 minutes straight and then let the car slow down to 20 mph again. Dont press the break at anytime or it will force you basically to start over again. Repeat till it completes idk how many straight time you do it straight but normally you would have to park the car and wait till it cools down and start again. It's a pain in the ass but it finally worked except it didnt want to work when I was tuned stage 2 had to reflash to stock and connect o2 sensor
 

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Dude just stop. I got the same code because of the flex-fuel kit. Just like everyone else.
The solution is the same, except I tapped my wire at a different area. I can reverse it, except its much work. My kit was the very first development, before everyone got theirs. Just stop man. You're no help.
I donā€™t really care if you post in this section or not, Iā€™m just trying to help you by telling you youā€™d get better answers faster elsewhere. Stop getting so damn defensive. I do nothing but help people around here. We have easy solutions available to us, you do not because you spliced the kit in.

Your ECU will set a code for your flex fuel sensor because it has replaced the ECT2 sensor. The only way to prevent the CEL this causes is by disabling it. Disabling the CEL makes it impossible to pass emissions. Your only option is removing the kit or hoping the CEL doesnā€™t set.

The ā€˜drive cycleā€™ people are referring to will help you go green/ready on the emissions, but only if you havenā€™t disabled the CEL. Itā€™s the same story for a catless downpipe.
 
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I donā€™t really care if you post in this section or not, Iā€™m just trying to help you by telling you youā€™d get better answers faster elsewhere. Stop getting so damn defensive. I do nothing but help people around here. We have easy solutions available to us, you do not because you spliced the kit in.

Your ECU will set a code for your flex fuel sensor because it has replaced the ECT2 sensor. The only way to prevent the CEL this causes is by disabling it. Disabling the CEL makes it impossible to pass emissions. Your only option is removing the kit or hoping the CEL doesnā€™t set.

The ā€˜drive cycleā€™ people are referring to will help you go green/ready on the emissions, but only if you havenā€™t disabled the CEL. Itā€™s the same story for a catless downpipe.
That's a better response than telling me it's a type R section.

You don't necessarily need to remove the kit. For most folks, just plug the wire back to the ect2 sensor. Then load a base map with an abled sensor, or go back to factory tune.
In my case, I would have to open up my ECU and reconnect that stupid original wire. Easy but time-consuming. It is currently 4 degrees here in Chicago.

This "drive cycle" method sounds so complicated.

The catless downpipe is another story. At least you can somewhat trick the sensitive sensor using a default.

As long as I can get the two sensors ready out of 3, I can pass the emission.
They allow at least one sensor not ready. I don't know how it is in other states tho.
 

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That's a better response than telling me it's a type R section.

You don't necessarily need to remove the kit. For most folks, just plug the wire back to the ect2 sensor. Then load a base map with an abled sensor, or go back to factory tune.
In my case, I would have to open up my ECU and reconnect that stupid original wire. Easy but time-consuming. It is currently 4 degrees here in Chicago.

This "drive cycle" method sounds so complicated.

The catless downpipe is another story. At least you can somewhat trick the sensitive sensor using a default.
Right, I didnā€™t mean to say the whole kit but rather just the ECT2 sensor.

Just drive it around with the CELs enabled and the ECT2 sensor properly rewired and you should pass all the systems sooner or later. Canā€™t see it taking longer than 30-90 minutes of varied driving. You donā€™t have to drive it a specific way, although it may make it quicker by doing so.

I think in your case itā€™s the ECT1 sensor though, no?
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