Overheating & What You Can Do To Stop It

[MadMage]

I’ll try to take a crack at it this weekend. The data isn’t encrypted and looks repetitive and most likely made by some open source library. Not sure what it’ll actually contain though.

Thanks! If you load the app on your phone, you can then load in my data file and look at it.

I'll post some screen shots of the data file I sent you inthe other thread.

Sponsored

 

[tinyman392]

Thanks! If you load the app on your phone, you can then load in my data file and look at it.

I'll post some screen shots of the data file I sent you inthe other thread.

Unless Honda gives you software on the computer to analyze the data, I don't really see the point of logging the data for the app So the decision to use a proprietary binary format kind of bewilders me.

 

[kefi]

Unless Honda gives you software on the computer to analyze the data, I don't really see the point of logging the data for the app So the decision to use a proprietary binary format kind of bewilders me.

Yeah I don't know why they even bothered.. but that's what my site datalo.gs is for

 

[MadMage]

Unless Honda gives you software on the computer to analyze the data, I don't really see the point of logging the data for the app So the decision to use a proprietary binary format kind of bewilders me.

Well, I don't (yet have Hondata or KTuner) a data logger other than the free one Honda provides. I look at it this way, they have done with one or two goals in mind; marketing, or with the intention of it being useful.

If they did it just for marketing, it probably wasn't worth the investment. So, I suspect it's just that this is a "new thing" for them. And they released a minimum viable product and intend to continue to enhance it. Hopefully it will become useful in short order, but... we'll see.

 

[spyderman]

As we all know, the FK8 struggles when driven hard on track. It seems like everyone has the same story of "I overheated today and the ambient temps were 75F+" or "car cut power and I had to pull into the pits" or something along those lines. There are several things that can put the car into limp mode and those being, hot coolant temps, hot oil temps, or fuel starving. Unfortunately Honda did not adequately design the coolers on our car to handle heavy track use. In comparison, the FK8 radiator is half of the size of other hot hatches. Another thing to note is that the intregreated head design and outdated/inefficient turbo do no favors for cooling.

Related Threads:

C&R Radiator
C&R Oil Cooler
C&R Intercooler

Common Misconceptions:

Most people that try to address overheating will slap on a larger intercooler thinking that it will help. In most cases this will actually make the car more likely to overheat. Let me explain. By increasing the size of your intercooler, you restrict the amount of airflow that travels through the intercooler and into the radiator. The radiator can't do its job without having the appropriate amount of airflow. The job of the intercooler is to cool the charge air and not to cool the water. By consistently making more power due to lower intake air temps (IAT), you increase the thermal load. It can get to a certain point, especially on track, where those benefits actually become useless. Essentially what has now happened is you lowered IATs, great. Coolant temps now rise as a result and the car cuts your power anyways. At this point the car is in double jeopardy. You lost power that you wanted to gain through a larger intercooler and your coolant temps are also suffering because of it. If you feel like you need to upgrade your intercooler, stick with a tube and fin design. C&R makes the best intercooler in this category and I have a thread on that as well. You’ll want to avoid a bar and plate intercooler if your car sees serious track duty. Reason being is that they restrict too much airflow and are much heavier compared to tube and fin units. Once a bar and plate unit gets heat soaked, it becomes very hard to shed this heat. On track where the car consistently sees WOT, it’s more beneficial to have a tube and fin intercooler that will consistently shed that heat .

Another thing to avoid would be inefficient base tunes. By increasing the power through tuning, you increase the thermal load on the car exponentially. The car already struggles with its current setup stock and this is a common mistake people make. From experience, KTuner runs the coolest out of all the base tunes available. I HIGHLY recommend against ANY Hondata base tune. For reference, we had two owners running Hondata basetunes on their car here at Laguna Seca. Both cars overheated quite easily with a decent driver. Another owner and I advised them to revert to the stock tune. The temp gauge didn't budge the rest of the day and their times didn't suffer much at all. I'm not picking on Hondata but this proves how inefficient their base tunes are especially for track work.

Some owners make the mistake of switching oil viscosity to something excessively thick thinking it will help reduce temps. In fact, thicker oil INCREASES heat. The engine now has to work harder because the thicker oil creates more friction. In extreme cases you can lose a bit of power. These engines are built to very fine tolerances and perform very well with modern synthetic oils. A thinner oil can travel faster and dissipate heat easier than thicker oil. 0w-20 to 5w-30 should be enough for most people depending on driver and car setup. It is important to monitor your oil pressures to determine which weight is suitable for you. The rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm. At high load for the FK8, you should see 55-65 psi. If your pressures are low, there is an issue with your setup and/or you need to move to a thicker oil. For serious track use it is very important to use an oil that will not sheer under high load or high temp. What can end up happening is a low grade 5w-30 oil sheering down to 0w-20 under high temp without you even knowing it. I’ve used Motul 300v 0w-20 on track and on the street with excellent results. I’m not guessing on this either. I sent my oil for analysis over at Blackstone and even with track use they recommend up to a 10,000 mile oil change interval.

Solutions:

The first thing we want to address is increasing the thermal capacity of your radiator and oil cooler. The stock radiator is so small it's laughable. Well why don't we just stuff the largest radiator possible? Unfortunately if the radiator core is too thick, it will decrease cooling efficiency. Finding the right core size to cool the car and also be efficient is extremely tricky. Most options on the market have been tried without any success. This includes: 2020 OEM, Koyorad, MASIV, CSF, and Spoon. Luckily for us there's one option, C&R/PWR. I've picked their brain's on almost everything cooling and have come to find that they can provide a radiator sufficient for serious track work. I won't harp on it too much on this thread but initial testing seems extremely promising from other owners and myself included. Essentially the C&R can shed heat like no other and is truly unique compared to everything else on the market currently. The coolant mixture can also be played around with depending on your climate. I live in California and can get away with the majority of my coolant being water with water wetter and some Honda coolant mixed in.

To help reduce the strain on the radiator, an oil cooler is necessary. The radiator design on our car is tasked with cooling not only the water but also the oil. By adding an auxiliary oil cooler, we can help reduce both ECT and OilT. The best designs currently available are ones mounted behind the driver side fog light. This way you can cut holes in the grill to allow air to pass through the oil cooler and the oil cooler only. There are some options that mount in the front of the radiator or require you to delete the brake duct. I HIGHLY recommend to stay away from these options. USR, GReddy, HKS, and C&R are all great options. Choose one that will suit your driving needs.

Radiator and oil cooler would be considered bare minimum and should be the first things you look into when tracking your car.

Now that we have a larger radiator, we want maximize the amount of air coming in. The more air that comes into contact with the radiator the better. When looking at the front bumper design, the only way to increase air into the radiator would be a larger grill. There are several options out there and even the 2020 models took note of this. If you can properly duct the air coming into the intercooler/radiator even better. Keep in mind, by increasing the opening, you will unfortunately increase drag/lift.

With more air coming into contact with the radiator you'll want to extract that heat as quickly as possible. The stock hood and even some vented hoods are not great at extracting heat and the air inside the engine bay becomes lazy. Poor airflow behind the radiator increase engine bay temps all across the board. You'l see higher IATs, ECTs, OilTs, etc. This is where a properly vented hood comes into play. My recommendation would be to have a vent right above the turbo. This will help the air escape the hottest parts, the radiator and turbo, as quickly as possible. Varis, Js, and Trackspec all have good options for this.

The icing on the cake will be isolating the heat sources in the car with thermal barriers. This includes: reflective tape, thermal wrap, thermal coatings, etc. A large source of heat will come from the factory downpipe/catalytic converter. The best solution here would be to run a catless downpipe with titanium wrap or an inconel shield. A good example would be the FK8 TCR where the downpipe has an inconel clam shell around it. I understand that not everyone wants to live that catless life, in which case I recommend a thermal coated catted downpipe like the RV6 Performance. Fair warning, it is not recommended to titanium wrap your cat. Wrapping the cat can lead to overheating and premature failure. To improve the hot air exiting the exhaust, a larger front pipe can help. This piece sits right below the oil pan and it is highly beneficial to titanium wrap this piece to minimize heat soaking into the oil pan. Thermal shielding on the intake parts can be beneficial too. If the intercooler doesn't need to work as hard, you wont have as much hot air exiting the intercooler as a result.

For those desperate enough, you can delete the AC condenser. This will allow a significant amount of air to flow through the radiator and also save weight. Not suitable IMO for a daily driver but definitely an option for a dedicated track car

My Personal Recommendations:

This is in order of importance.

Radiator: C&R street or track depending on your specific needs
Oil Cooler: C&R, HKS, GReddy, USR
Grills: Modified OEM, EVS, Js Racing, etc
Vented hoods: Varis, Js Racing, Trackspec hood vents
Catless Downpipes: RV6 ceramic coated, Dream Automotive with hard lagging, or PRL
Thermal barriers: DEI, Heatshield Products, Turbosource. You'll want to use reflective tapes, inconel shields, titanium wraps, etc where applicable.

There are some brute force ways of cooling the car like Ethanol, Meth injection, and upgraded turbo. I won't go into these options only because the average user probably doesn't want to dive that deep into the rabbit hole.

This is my basic recipe for solving the overheating problem. There's definitely multiple ways to solve it but I feel this is the most streamlined way of doing it. I'd love for this thread to be a place to discuss advanced ideas and theories to help further reduce temps. If you've done exactly everything above please share your experience with us.

I'll continue to update this post as more information becomes available or if I simply forgot to talk about something.

As we all know, the FK8 struggles when driven hard on track. It seems like everyone has the same story of "I overheated today and the ambient temps were 75F+" or "car cut power and I had to pull into the pits" or something along those lines. There are several things that can put the car into limp mode and those being, hot coolant temps, hot oil temps, or fuel starving. Unfortunately Honda did not adequately design the coolers on our car to handle heavy track use. In comparison, the FK8 radiator is half of the size of other hot hatches. Another thing to note is that the intregreated head design and outdated/inefficient turbo do no favors for cooling.

Related Threads:

C&R Radiator
C&R Oil Cooler
C&R Intercooler

Common Misconceptions:

Most people that try to address overheating will slap on a larger intercooler thinking that it will help. In most cases this will actually make the car more likely to overheat. Let me explain. By increasing the size of your intercooler, you restrict the amount of airflow that travels through the intercooler and into the radiator. The radiator can't do its job without having the appropriate amount of airflow. The job of the intercooler is to cool the charge air and not to cool the water. By consistently making more power due to lower intake air temps (IAT), you increase the thermal load. It can get to a certain point, especially on track, where those benefits actually become useless. Essentially what has now happened is you lowered IATs, great. Coolant temps now rise as a result and the car cuts your power anyways. At this point the car is in double jeopardy. You lost power that you wanted to gain through a larger intercooler and your coolant temps are also suffering because of it. If you feel like you need to upgrade your intercooler, stick with a tube and fin design. C&R makes the best intercooler in this category and I have a thread on that as well. You’ll want to avoid a bar and plate intercooler if your car sees serious track duty. Reason being is that they restrict too much airflow and are much heavier compared to tube and fin units. Once a bar and plate unit gets heat soaked, it becomes very hard to shed this heat. On track where the car consistently sees WOT, it’s more beneficial to have a tube and fin intercooler that will consistently shed that heat .

Another thing to avoid would be inefficient base tunes. By increasing the power through tuning, you increase the thermal load on the car exponentially. The car already struggles with its current setup stock and this is a common mistake people make. From experience, KTuner runs the coolest out of all the base tunes available. I HIGHLY recommend against ANY Hondata base tune. For reference, we had two owners running Hondata basetunes on their car here at Laguna Seca. Both cars overheated quite easily with a decent driver. Another owner and I advised them to revert to the stock tune. The temp gauge didn't budge the rest of the day and their times didn't suffer much at all. I'm not picking on Hondata but this proves how inefficient their base tunes are especially for track work.

Some owners make the mistake of switching oil viscosity to something excessively thick thinking it will help reduce temps. In fact, thicker oil INCREASES heat. The engine now has to work harder because the thicker oil creates more friction. In extreme cases you can lose a bit of power. These engines are built to very fine tolerances and perform very well with modern synthetic oils. A thinner oil can travel faster and dissipate heat easier than thicker oil. 0w-20 to 5w-30 should be enough for most people depending on driver and car setup. It is important to monitor your oil pressures to determine which weight is suitable for you. The rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm. At high load for the FK8, you should see 55-65 psi. If your pressures are low, there is an issue with your setup and/or you need to move to a thicker oil. For serious track use it is very important to use an oil that will not sheer under high load or high temp. What can end up happening is a low grade 5w-30 oil sheering down to 0w-20 under high temp without you even knowing it. I’ve used Motul 300v 0w-20 on track and on the street with excellent results. I’m not guessing on this either. I sent my oil for analysis over at Blackstone and even with track use they recommend up to a 10,000 mile oil change interval.

Solutions:

The first thing we want to address is increasing the thermal capacity of your radiator and oil cooler. The stock radiator is so small it's laughable. Well why don't we just stuff the largest radiator possible? Unfortunately if the radiator core is too thick, it will decrease cooling efficiency. Finding the right core size to cool the car and also be efficient is extremely tricky. Most options on the market have been tried without any success. This includes: 2020 OEM, Koyorad, MASIV, CSF, and Spoon. Luckily for us there's one option, C&R/PWR. I've picked their brain's on almost everything cooling and have come to find that they can provide a radiator sufficient for serious track work. I won't harp on it too much on this thread but initial testing seems extremely promising from other owners and myself included. Essentially the C&R can shed heat like no other and is truly unique compared to everything else on the market currently. The coolant mixture can also be played around with depending on your climate. I live in California and can get away with the majority of my coolant being water with water wetter and some Honda coolant mixed in.

To help reduce the strain on the radiator, an oil cooler is necessary. The radiator design on our car is tasked with cooling not only the water but also the oil. By adding an auxiliary oil cooler, we can help reduce both ECT and OilT. The best designs currently available are ones mounted behind the driver side fog light. This way you can cut holes in the grill to allow air to pass through the oil cooler and the oil cooler only. There are some options that mount in the front of the radiator or require you to delete the brake duct. I HIGHLY recommend to stay away from these options. USR, GReddy, HKS, and C&R are all great options. Choose one that will suit your driving needs.

Radiator and oil cooler would be considered bare minimum and should be the first things you look into when tracking your car.

Now that we have a larger radiator, we want maximize the amount of air coming in. The more air that comes into contact with the radiator the better. When looking at the front bumper design, the only way to increase air into the radiator would be a larger grill. There are several options out there and even the 2020 models took note of this. If you can properly duct the air coming into the intercooler/radiator even better. Keep in mind, by increasing the opening, you will unfortunately increase drag/lift.

With more air coming into contact with the radiator you'll want to extract that heat as quickly as possible. The stock hood and even some vented hoods are not great at extracting heat and the air inside the engine bay becomes lazy. Poor airflow behind the radiator increase engine bay temps all across the board. You'l see higher IATs, ECTs, OilTs, etc. This is where a properly vented hood comes into play. My recommendation would be to have a vent right above the turbo. This will help the air escape the hottest parts, the radiator and turbo, as quickly as possible. Varis, Js, and Trackspec all have good options for this.

The icing on the cake will be isolating the heat sources in the car with thermal barriers. This includes: reflective tape, thermal wrap, thermal coatings, etc. A large source of heat will come from the factory downpipe/catalytic converter. The best solution here would be to run a catless downpipe with titanium wrap or an inconel shield. A good example would be the FK8 TCR where the downpipe has an inconel clam shell around it. I understand that not everyone wants to live that catless life, in which case I recommend a thermal coated catted downpipe like the RV6 Performance. Fair warning, it is not recommended to titanium wrap your cat. Wrapping the cat can lead to overheating and premature failure. To improve the hot air exiting the exhaust, a larger front pipe can help. This piece sits right below the oil pan and it is highly beneficial to titanium wrap this piece to minimize heat soaking into the oil pan. Thermal shielding on the intake parts can be beneficial too. If the intercooler doesn't need to work as hard, you wont have as much hot air exiting the intercooler as a result.

For those desperate enough, you can delete the AC condenser. This will allow a significant amount of air to flow through the radiator and also save weight. Not suitable IMO for a daily driver but definitely an option for a dedicated track car

My Personal Recommendations:

This is in order of importance.

Radiator: C&R street or track depending on your specific needs
Oil Cooler: C&R, HKS, GReddy, USR
Grills: Modified OEM, EVS, Js Racing, etc
Vented hoods: Varis, Js Racing, Trackspec hood vents
Catless Downpipes: RV6 ceramic coated, Dream Automotive with hard lagging, or PRL
Thermal barriers: DEI, Heatshield Products, Turbosource. You'll want to use reflective tapes, inconel shields, titanium wraps, etc where applicable.

There are some brute force ways of cooling the car like Ethanol, Meth injection, and upgraded turbo. I won't go into these options only because the average user probably doesn't want to dive that deep into the rabbit hole.

This is my basic recipe for solving the overheating problem. There's definitely multiple ways to solve it but I feel this is the most streamlined way of doing it. I'd love for this thread to be a place to discuss advanced ideas and theories to help further reduce temps. If you've done exactly everything above please share your experience with us.

I'll continue to update this post as more information becomes available or if I simply forgot to talk about something.

I am running into overheating in my 2018 CTR FK8 while running OTD`s in Michigan, mostly during July and August. So far I have installed a Koyo race rad, a Mishimoto oil cooler, a mishimoto intercooler, a wtautopart Honeycomb grill and a Evasive Motorsport drivers side fog light grill but still encountering overheating on over 75 degree days after 2-3 hard laps at Gingerman Raceway.
I have purchased a C & R race radiator and C & R intercooler along with Acuity reverse flow hoses. Do you or anyone else have any experience running these hoses? I plan on pulling the Koyo and Mishimoto stuff off in February and replace with the C & R parts and these hoses. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[b2point0h]

I am running into overheating in my 2018 CTR FK8 while running OTD`s in Michigan, mostly during July and August. So far I have installed a Koyo race rad, a Mishimoto oil cooler, a mishimoto intercooler, a wtautopart Honeycomb grill and a Evasive Motorsport drivers side fog light grill but still encountering overheating on over 75 degree days after 2-3 hard laps at Gingerman Raceway.
I have purchased a C & R race radiator and C & R intercooler along with Acuity reverse flow hoses. Do you or anyone else have any experience running these hoses? I plan on pulling the Koyo and Mishimoto stuff off in February and replace with the C & R parts and these hoses. Any help would be appreciated.

I run the acuity hoses on Koyo Radiator with no issues.

What kind of tune are you running?

 

[ImTheStatMan]

I am running into overheating in my 2018 CTR FK8 while running OTD`s in Michigan, mostly during July and August. So far I have installed a Koyo race rad, a Mishimoto oil cooler, a mishimoto intercooler, a wtautopart Honeycomb grill and a Evasive Motorsport drivers side fog light grill but still encountering overheating on over 75 degree days after 2-3 hard laps at Gingerman Raceway.
I have purchased a C & R race radiator and C & R intercooler along with Acuity reverse flow hoses. Do you or anyone else have any experience running these hoses? I plan on pulling the Koyo and Mishimoto stuff off in February and replace with the C & R parts and these hoses. Any help would be appreciated.

I run the acuity hoses with the C&R radiator. No issues so far, but I haven’t tracked the car in hot weather since the install either.

 

[BlinkerBeat]

I am running into overheating in my 2018 CTR FK8 while running OTD`s in Michigan, mostly during July and August. So far I have installed a Koyo race rad, a Mishimoto oil cooler, a mishimoto intercooler, a wtautopart Honeycomb grill and a Evasive Motorsport drivers side fog light grill but still encountering overheating on over 75 degree days after 2-3 hard laps at Gingerman Raceway.
I have purchased a C & R race radiator and C & R intercooler along with Acuity reverse flow hoses. Do you or anyone else have any experience running these hoses? I plan on pulling the Koyo and Mishimoto stuff off in February and replace with the C & R parts and these hoses. Any help would be appreciated.

I have the C&R street radiator ( I live in central IL and daily it), reverse flow hoses and HKS oil cooler. I ran Joliet Autobahn Full last September. It was overcast and 70*. The car ran perfect. The temp gauge never moved. It was perfect through six 20 minute sessions.

Hopefully the tracks are open all of 2021. I want to get to Gingerman and Blackhawk too.

 

[spyderman]

I am installing a C & R Track radiator and a C & R intercooler in my 2018 CTR . I already have a Mishimoto oil cooler and intake, an Evasive L/H parking light grill and a WTautopart honeycomb sport grill. I also plan on installing Acuity reverse coolant hoses.
Does anyone have any experience running these hoses?
I run a lot of OTD`s at Gingerman Raceway in Michigan and am having overheating problems on over 75 degree days.

 

[b2point0h]

I am installing a C & R Track radiator and a C & R intercooler in my 2018 CTR . I already have a Mishimoto oil cooler and intake, an Evasive L/H parking light grill and a WTautopart honeycomb sport grill. I also plan on installing Acuity reverse coolant hoses.
Does anyone have any experience running these hoses?
I run a lot of OTD`s at Gingerman Raceway in Michigan and am having overheating problems on over 75 degree days.

3 people have answered your original question and have asked you questions.

You haven’t answered anyone and are basically posting your original question again...come on man, read. ??‍

 

[fatherpain]

These links from my build journal should prove useful @spyderman

• Koyorad radiator (no longer on car, but install instructions apply) Post #135, #136, #137, #138, #139, #140, #141, #142, #143, #144
• PWR Premium Race Radiator Post #397, #403, #404, #405, #45
• Acuity Super Cooler reverse flow silicone radiator hoses Post #404, #405, #431
• HKS Oil Cooler Post #66, #70, #115, #116, #117, #118, #119, #120, #121, #122, #128, #131, #145
• C&R oil cooler core upgrade Post #539, #540, #541, #544, #550

I am running into overheating in my 2018 CTR FK8 while running OTD`s in Michigan, mostly during July and August. So far I have installed a Koyo race rad, a Mishimoto oil cooler, a mishimoto intercooler, a wtautopart Honeycomb grill and a Evasive Motorsport drivers side fog light grill but still encountering overheating on over 75 degree days after 2-3 hard laps at Gingerman Raceway.
I have purchased a C & R race radiator and C & R intercooler along with Acuity reverse flow hoses. Do you or anyone else have any experience running these hoses? I plan on pulling the Koyo and Mishimoto stuff off in February and replace with the C & R parts and these hoses. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Dave B]

3 questions about the reverse flow hoses

1) what are the temps of the air on the backside of the intercooler? I thought the differences between IAT 1 and IAT2 are typically only about 30F. If the temps are not that high then the benefit may be minimal.

2) isn't (at least one) of the ECT temps taken at the bottom of the radiator? This would be hotter with the reverse hoses than the normal flow hoses

3) Does the TCR car mount the intercooler in the same place as regular street driven CTRs?

 

[Lust]

3 questions about the reverse flow hoses

1) what are the temps of the air on the backside of the intercooler? I thought the differences between IAT 1 and IAT2 are typically only about 30F. If the temps are not that high then the benefit may be minimal.

2) isn't (at least one) of the ECT temps taken at the bottom of the radiator? This would be hotter with the reverse hoses than the normal flow hoses

3) Does the TCR car mount the intercooler in the same place as regular street driven CTRs?

Whatever the temps are behind the IC are going to definitely be hotter than ambient temps

yes by installing the reverse hoses, the ECT2 temps will now be innacurate.

TCR cars have the radiator and IC V mounted. Completely different from factory locations and have separate ducts for the radiator and IC

 

[Dave B]

Whatever the temps are behind the IC are going to definitely be hotter than ambient temps

yes by installing the reverse hoses, the ECT2 temps will now be innacurate.

TCR cars have the radiator and IC V mounted. Completely different from factory locations and have separate ducts for the radiator and IC

Thats kind of what I thought. I also wonder what the delta is of temps from the top of the rad to the bottom in an OEM configuration. I think the last thing I would want to do is tell the computer that the ECT at the bottom of the rad is hotter than expected and this is what should happen with the reverse flow hoses.

Also the setup of the TCR cars is totally different and results there would not likely be applicable to a regular CTR

 

[wassen]

I am running into overheating in my 2018 CTR FK8 while running OTD`s in Michigan, mostly during July and August. So far I have installed a Koyo race rad, a Mishimoto oil cooler, a mishimoto intercooler, a wtautopart Honeycomb grill and a Evasive Motorsport drivers side fog light grill but still encountering overheating on over 75 degree days after 2-3 hard laps at Gingerman Raceway.
I have purchased a C & R race radiator and C & R intercooler along with Acuity reverse flow hoses. Do you or anyone else have any experience running these hoses? I plan on pulling the Koyo and Mishimoto stuff off in February and replace with the C & R parts and these hoses. Any help would be appreciated.

Insane that you overheat even with the cooling mods you have. Do you shut off all ACS etc?

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