Overheating & What You Can Do To Stop It

turbociv910

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I thought I'd share some thermal imaging to graphically explain why this is sound advise. The heat from the turbo needs to be dealt with; in some way.

The following is a thermal image of a coated PRL Titanium Inlet Pipe after a spirited drive. The hour glass shape is from the turbo dumping so much heat.
20200916-070800.jpg


Honda even knew the area needed to be cooled. This hole in the hood is directly over the electronic wastegate actuator and it's likely the purpose is to cool the wastegate electronics.
20200916-091706.jpg
omg, someone posting data . Bravo.
 

spyderman

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In any of these post I haven't seen any logs or data showing ECT, and IAT in 90 degrees ambient temps doing at least some pulls from 1 to 5 th gear at WOT no lift shifting for have some reference regarding radiator temps and after intercooler temps.

I have data for example using Koyorad and Mishimoto intercooler for get some reference.
If someone have some data with PWR or C&R radiator and intercooler please posted, so we can see if it justify $1000 radiator or intercooler.
 

spyderman

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I run my Fk8 in OTD`s on 2.3 mile Gingerman raceway here in Michigan. I have installed a Koyorad, a Mishimoto IC, Mishimoto intake and Mishimoto oil cooler. On 75 degree and below days I can run hard for a full 20 minute session but 75 to 80 degree and above days I only can get 2 to 3 laps in before heat gauge goes full while running with the heater full blast. These improvements really haven`t helped fix the problem from the stock setup but no problems during street driving on very hot days. Could you share your data on the Koyorad and Mishimoto IC?
I too am considering selling the stuff I am running now and purchase C & R radiator and IC before next summer but want to be sure that this is money well spent.
 

tinyman392

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I run my Fk8 in OTD`s on 2.3 mile Gingerman raceway here in Michigan. I have installed a Koyorad, a Mishimoto IC, Mishimoto intake and Mishimoto oil cooler. On 75 degree and below days I can run hard for a full 20 minute session but 75 to 80 degree and above days I only can get 2 to 3 laps in before heat gauge goes full while running with the heater full blast. These improvements really haven`t helped fix the problem from the stock setup but no problems during street driving on very hot days. Could you share your data on the Koyorad and Mishimoto IC?
I too am considering selling the stuff I am running now and purchase C & R radiator and IC before next summer but want to be sure that this is money well spent.
If I’m not mistaken the Mishimoto intake is known to heat soak on its own. Some have stated that with the exception of the C&R, the stock intercooler will be better for track duty over 3rd party bar and plate designs. Tube and fin seems to be considered for track duty too. I’d definitely keep the oil cooler though.
 

seselectronics

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I run my Fk8 in OTD`s on 2.3 mile Gingerman raceway here in Michigan. I have installed a Koyorad, a Mishimoto IC, Mishimoto intake and Mishimoto oil cooler. On 75 degree and below days I can run hard for a full 20 minute session but 75 to 80 degree and above days I only can get 2 to 3 laps in before heat gauge goes full while running with the heater full blast. These improvements really haven`t helped fix the problem from the stock setup but no problems during street driving on very hot days. Could you share your data on the Koyorad and Mishimoto IC?
I too am considering selling the stuff I am running now and purchase C & R radiator and IC before next summer but want to be sure that this is money well spent.
Sure I posted in Mishimoto vs PLR thread.. let me copy and past the link
 


seselectronics

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I run my Fk8 in OTD`s on 2.3 mile Gingerman raceway here in Michigan. I have installed a Koyorad, a Mishimoto IC, Mishimoto intake and Mishimoto oil cooler. On 75 degree and below days I can run hard for a full 20 minute session but 75 to 80 degree and above days I only can get 2 to 3 laps in before heat gauge goes full while running with the heater full blast. These improvements really haven`t helped fix the problem from the stock setup but no problems during street driving on very hot days. Could you share your data on the Koyorad and Mishimoto IC?
I too am considering selling the stuff I am running now and purchase C & R radiator and IC before next summer but want to be sure that this is money well spent.

Check page N 3, I posted some data logging , I just post captures but you can see how was the run, speed , ECT, IAts, and car specs... That car can make all full track session at Homestead 30 min each session, lap time 1:43 and that car is making good power, is not detuned for track..

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/prl-vs-mishimoto-intercooler.29989/page-3
 

RepyT

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I run my Fk8 in OTD`s on 2.3 mile Gingerman raceway here in Michigan. I have installed a Koyorad, a Mishimoto IC, Mishimoto intake and Mishimoto oil cooler. On 75 degree and below days I can run hard for a full 20 minute session but 75 to 80 degree and above days I only can get 2 to 3 laps in before heat gauge goes full while running with the heater full blast. These improvements really haven`t helped fix the problem from the stock setup but no problems during street driving on very hot days. Could you share your data on the Koyorad and Mishimoto IC?
I too am considering selling the stuff I am running now and purchase C & R radiator and IC before next summer but want to be sure that this is money well spent.
Spy,
That’s odd as my stock everything except Kyrorad radiator here in 95+, gauge never gets above 1/3 on the street.

Last weekend I did first autocross, 3 laps are just under a min each put not continuous as you get back in line and relaunch after each.
Total run time per heat in 95 and sunny was 20-25 mins each round, three sessions separated by about an hour so not cold start, warm maybe. It must be my red silicone hoses shed heat fast (j/k).
Temp gauge never got above midpoint. I was sure to keep an eye on it. Running in Racechip setting 7 (Race) and +R mode, A/C off of course.

We’re at like 50’ above sea level if that at inland track if that matters.
 

MisterC

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I ended up really toeing the line for my last runs of the season at mid ohio. I've gotten faster over this year and did some upgrades to handling and braking, but I found the temp hitting 2/3rds after about a lap and a half every time.

I'm at stock tune and no cooling mods, was able to manage by taking it easy intermittently, but the car did obviously and repeatedly begin to overheat.
 

yargk

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Great write up! Some are running two oil coolers, perhaps this is something that should be added to the write up because if one oil cooler is the first thing you should do, then the 2nd might be another oil cooler.
 
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Great write up! Some are running two oil coolers, perhaps this is something that should be added to the write up because if one oil cooler is the first thing you should do, then the 2nd might be another oil cooler.
Yea there are pros and cons to running a dual oil cooler. Would definitely be application specific
 


02SilverSiHB

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Nice post!

I don't know if I will ever take mine to the track...seeing this makes me not want to.

Also I can confirm with you on those base calibrations from Hondata. I don't think they were meant for track use. I noticed they run leaner than what my tuner tuned mine at. I saw hondata calibration for intercooler, 91 octane and down pipe front pipe running high 12s for a/f...I'm no tuner or expert but I don't think thats really too safe when running more power.

Informative post!
 

yargk

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Yea there are pros and cons to running a dual oil cooler. Would definitely be application specific
I was just thinking simply more is better, what are the cons? (complexity?)
 
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Lust

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I was just thinking simply more is better, what are the cons? (complexity?)
Potential loss of oil pressure and you have more fittings / lines to deal with. Just have to be more careful because it has a higher chance of leaking.
 

RepyT

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I was just thinking simply more is better, what are the cons? (complexity?)
Great idea, cons: multiple possible points of failure, more techie, more breaky?
 

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Nice summary. I think far too many discussions on this forum are derailed by people confusing high IAT power reductions with the car actually overheating. You can have 175F intake temps and be running perfectly acceptable coolant and oil temps. Fixing IATs is easy; fixing the engine cooling problem is hard.

Also, this is only a problem for people driving hard on a hot, lower speed track. If you haven't experienced climbing ECTs in your use cases, don't waste your money on cooling mods. This car will not under any circumstances overheat in street driving.
Sorry, so is Amsoil xl 5w-20 still thin enough or too thick?- did I make a mistake in buying it for my first oil change?
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