Overheating & What You Can Do To Stop It

[Lust]

not sure if anyone say this yet and there are no numbers and I've never seen these guys before so all should be taken with a heap of salt. but they claim to have solved it with the same basic principles. Oil cooler + fog light cut outs and they removed all the trimming/gaskets around the bay and hood and put the hood on 1/2" risers. looks horrible but for a weekend of running then back to stock. seems like a lot of work back and forth for a daily driver who tracks vs someone who mostly tracks where looks are second to performance

I doubt any of those things they did helped for cooling. That oil cooler is also a big yikes. They removed the brake duct on the driver side. They also removed the factory radiator ducting. Air can now just travel around the radiator instead of just going through the radiator. I guess it's easy enough to test if you really wanted to.

Sponsored

 

[Lust]

so does putting the non usdm fender liner/cover things on hurt or help? Notice it says engine compartment, not engine cooling, in the text

I'm not entirely sure. Would be nice if someone could test with them on/off.

 

[RBrackett]

so does putting the non usdm fender liner/cover things on hurt or help? Notice it says engine compartment, not engine cooling, in the text

i thought the same but i thought that the metal flashing under the hood directs all air to that vent and doesn't touch the engine air?

 

[boosted180sx]

not sure if anyone say this yet and there are no numbers and I've never seen these guys before so all should be taken with a heap of salt. but they claim to have solved it with the same basic principles. Oil cooler + fog light cut outs and they removed all the trimming/gaskets around the bay and hood and put the hood on 1/2" risers. looks horrible but for a weekend of running then back to stock. seems like a lot of work back and forth for a daily driver who tracks vs someone who mostly tracks where looks are second to performance

I doubt those really helped much ... the issue is that everyone lives in different ambient temps and everyone drives at a different pace. I can probably take Lust car and not overheat because i probably wont drive the car nearly as fast as he probably can.

there just isn't a one solution to fix all but more of a package of everything to fix it ...

also completely venting out the foglight grill is not really good for cooling. Your just allowing more areas for air to flow through. You want to block off the areas that you dont want air to get in and have proper ducting to guide the air to only the areas you want air flowing through. They also said removing the trim around the condenser is for aerodynamic purposes ... That trim is actually there to make sure the air goes to the radiator and not around it ...

 

[RBrackett]

I doubt those really helped much ... the issue is that everyone lives in different ambient temps and everyone drives at a different pace. I can probably take Lust car and not overheat because i probably wont drive the car nearly as fast as he probably can.

there just isn't a one solution to fix all but more of a package of everything to fix it ...

also completely venting out the foglight grill is not really good for cooling. Your just allowing more areas for air to flow through. You want to block off the areas that you dont want air to get in and have proper ducting to guide the air to only the areas you want air flowing through. They also said removing the trim around the condenser is for aerodynamic purposes ... That trim is actually there to make sure the air goes to the radiator and not around it ...

i 100% agree, but i guess in the beginning they said it a time attack car. so driven pretty hard. its super hot down here by me (95 for the past few days) and i cant overheat it with daily driving. so ambient temp and driving style/skill do play a role.

seems that they just opened up everything in the front and raised the hood for a positive air pressure set up (i think I'm using that right) basically forcing as much air into the engine bay and then forcing it to go out the back of the hood and over the windscreen.

i wish i lived closer to a track to try out the mods and get some data.

 

[MadMage]

I haven't tracked in that weather and TBH I wouldn't recommend it. If you are adamant about tracking that weather, you'll need to do everything listed to help lower temps. Both ECT and OilT are important to watch but ECT seems to be the Achilles heel.

Adamant? No. Don't even think I want to be sitting outside at the track in those temps But, just trying to figure out what's reasonable.

Do you/someone know what ECT and Oil Temps are considered max and/or limiting for our cars? I can only find generic info but know that's not specific to CTRs.

 

[MadMage]

i thought the same but i thought that the metal flashing under the hood directs all air to that vent and doesn't touch the engine air?

But the scoop air helps pull the other air through the engine. I forget what this is called, (venturi effect maybe?) but by doing this they increase flow through the rest of the engine. Think of it as using one fluid flow to drag or accelerate an 'attached' flow. At least that is the idea, I'm sure they did airflow or at least CFD analysis to show this

 

[tinyman392]

i thought the same but i thought that the metal flashing under the hood directs all air to that vent and doesn't touch the engine air?

The only way I can see this working is if the metal conducts the heat from the engine bay, then the air that is flowing over it vents that heat away from the metal allow it to absorb more heat. Rinse and repeat. Obviously it doesn't work as well as they hoped as the car heat soaks like cray cray.

 

[boosted180sx]

i 100% agree, but i guess in the beginning they said it a time attack car. so driven pretty hard. its super hot down here by me (95 for the past few days) and i cant overheat it with daily driving. so ambient temp and driving style/skill do play a role.

seems that they just opened up everything in the front and raised the hood for a positive air pressure set up (i think I'm using that right) basically forcing as much air into the engine bay and then forcing it to go out the back of the hood and over the windscreen.

i wish i lived closer to a track to try out the mods and get some data.

raising the rear of the hood actually does the opposite of what yo want it to do. It will vent out heat and let it out at idle sure but thats should not be the case when at speed.

The windshield is a high pressure zone. Under the hood is a low pressure zone. Air will actually be entering the hood and not out at speed. Thats why cowl inductions work and hood risers and removing the rubber seal at the cowl does not help with cooling.

 

[Jwolf]

not sure if anyone say this yet and there are no numbers and I've never seen these guys before so all should be taken with a heap of salt. but they claim to have solved it with the same basic principles. Oil cooler + fog light cut outs and they removed all the trimming/gaskets around the bay and hood and put the hood on 1/2" risers. looks horrible but for a weekend of running then back to stock. seems like a lot of work back and forth for a daily driver who tracks vs someone who mostly tracks where looks are second to performance

I'm in the area of these guys. If this is at all recent, temps have been lower for the passed couple weeks. I wouldn't be trusting these guys, especially with the fact that their is 0 data and they say come to our shop for your track needs.

Scare tactic followed by solution sales pitch.


++Edit: To add, he mentions running the car at Calabogie, which I am pretty sure is a fast track. I haven't driven it myself, but I don't think the CTR would have immense issue finding time to cool itself there.

 

[Lust]

Adamant? No. Don't even think I want to be sitting outside at the track in those temps But, just trying to figure out what's reasonable.

Do you/someone know what ECT and Oil Temps are considered max and/or limiting for our cars? I can only find generic info but know that's not specific to CTRs.

Coolant you want to keep as cool as possible. I don't feel safe above 240-250F for ECT and ideally you want it between 195-220F. Oil can be a little hotter and I think should be kept around 240-260F.

 

[Centripetal]

not sure if anyone say this yet and there are no numbers and I've never seen these guys before so all should be taken with a heap of salt. but they claim to have solved it with the same basic principles. Oil cooler + fog light cut outs and they removed all the trimming/gaskets around the bay and hood and put the hood on 1/2" risers. looks horrible but for a weekend of running then back to stock. seems like a lot of work back and forth for a daily driver who tracks vs someone who mostly tracks where looks are second to performance

I’d want to tape some yarn and video these mods before committing to them. My gut says rain and snow would be an issue if it’s also a street car. Not to mention the seam with the hood not matching the fenders would drive me crazy.

edit: the U shape will definitely make that end plate more rigid but that’s not the only thing that makes me curious.

 

[RBrackett]

But the scoop air helps pull the other air through the engine. I forget what this is called, (venturi effect maybe?) but by doing this they increase flow through the rest of the engine. Think of it as using one fluid flow to drag or accelerate an 'attached' flow. At least that is the idea, I'm sure they did airflow or at least CFD analysis to show this

ill have to double check the hood later, i thought the metal duct under the scoop kept the air separate form the engine bay air but i could be wrong. I'm been wrong before.

raising the rear of the hood actually does the opposite of what yo want it to do. It will vent out heat and let it out at idle sure but thats should not be the case when at speed.

The windshield is a high pressure zone. Under the hood is a low pressure zone. Air will actually be entering the hood and not out at speed. Thats why cowl inductions work and hood risers and removing the rubber seal at the cowl does not help with cooling.

the example with the cowl hoods makes sense. im far from am expert but wouldn't pushing more air into the engine bay (with the grill and fog light etc) force the air out the only opening being the raised rear hood? also, wouldn't raising the change the high pressure zones? so like forcing more air into the low pressure zone (i.e. engine bay) and basically pushing it thru the rear of the hood?

i would kinda liken it to a PC case (not sure if anyone here are pc nerds ) but putting fans only on the front of your case to pull in fresh cool air and basically forces the air to exit the chassis opposite the fan locations

i barely past physics so im a bit simple minded. ?

 

[RBrackett]

I’d want to tape some yarn and video these mods before committing to them. My gut says rain and snow would be an issue if it’s also a street car. Not to mention the seam with the hood not matching the fenders would drive me crazy.

i agree. the nice thing is that those simple mods seem reversible. but the misaligned body panels with the rain we get + my OCD would automatically make me say no to it haha

 

[ApexEight]

Lol watched the video, those guys are doing the exact opposite of what you want to do.

Sponsored