Overheating & What You Can Do To Stop It

17RGuy

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Insane that you overheat even with the cooling mods you have. Do you shut off all ACS etc?
Really isn’t insane when you look at his mods. @b2point0h is the only one I’ve heard of not overheating still with the koyo radiator. I know he has other mods that I think are just as beneficial as a “better” radiator to helping reduce heat, but @spyderman is running an obscenely large fmic that is killing his radiators cooling effectiveness. Also, no hood vent isn’t helping him.
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Insane that you overheat even with the cooling mods you have. Do you shut off all ACS etc?
Well it’s been proven time and time again that the Koyo rad isn’t really sufficient in most cases along with the Mishimoto IC just blocking too much air. Just an inefficient setup which causes overheating. Pair that with a Hondata basemap that runs lean and boom overheat. KTuner basemaps run at 11.8 AFR while the Hondata runs at 12.5 AFR.
 

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I am installing a C & R Track radiator and a C & R intercooler in my 2018 CTR . I already have a Mishimoto oil cooler and intake, an Evasive L/H parking light grill and a WTautopart honeycomb sport grill. I also plan on installing Acuity reverse coolant hoses.
Does anyone have any experience running these hoses?
I run a lot of OTD`s at Gingerman Raceway in Michigan and am having overheating problems on over 75 degree days.
Do you have a tune, if so what kind?

Is the Mushimoto intake making things worse?

Did you have an aftermarket intercooler installed?
If so, what brand?
 

b2point0h

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Really isn’t insane when you look at his mods. @b2point0h is the only one I’ve heard of not overheating still with the koyo radiator. I know he has other mods that I think are just as beneficial as a “better” radiator to helping reduce heat, but @spyderman is running an obscenely large fmic that is killing his radiators cooling effectiveness. Also, no hood vent isn’t helping him.
Pretty sure the only reason the Koyo is still working for me is because of my tune. This MUST be kept in mind when considering which hardware will keep the car cool.
 
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Pretty sure the only reason the Koyo is still working for me is because of my tune. This MUST be kept in mind when considering which hardware will keep the car cool.
Yep. There’s only two cars that I know of that don’t “overheat” with the koyorad. Yours and Jose’s.
 


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Yep. There’s only two cars that I know of that don’t “overheat” with the koyorad. Yours and Jose’s.
And he’s making wayyy more power than me. A couple of good examples I’d say! LOL.
 

RepyT

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Yep. There’s only two cars that I know of that don’t “overheat” with the koyorad. Yours and Jose’s.
Count me as #3 maybe?
Only ran one autocross total for each of three heats run time 30 mins each, about hour cool down between heats. Each heat 3 laps but stop, get in line, restart each lap.
Gauge got up to halfway once, 85F peak ambient.

Making dyno’d 367 WHP, a +81 WHP gain. This is with Eurocars gurus RaceChip (prototype) on 93 oct, Koyorad, AfE dry HVA filter, AWE Touring, NBO (as in none). None of those were in at tunes but K&N air filter then.

Their +60 WHP kit should finally be released soon, $549 w/phone app if anyone likes more of a hands off alternative. It’s all just fancy math that optimizies results via their custom tune, I was glad to help as they needed stock R, been a fun time since.

Honda Civic 10th gen Overheating & What You Can Do To Stop It 374D279E-2C69-444E-9805-903506C805C3
 
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Jwolf

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Count me as #3 maybe?
Only ran one autocross total for each of three heats run time 30 mins each, about hour cool down between heats. Each heat 3 laps but stop, get in line, restart each lap.
Gauge got up to halfway once, 85F peak ambient.

Making dyno’d 367 WHP, a +81 WHP gain. This is with Eurocars gurus RaceChip (prototype) on 93 oct, Koyorad, AfE dry HVA filter, AWE Touring, NBO (as in none). None of those were in at tunes but K&N air filter then.

Their +60 WHP kit should finally be released soon, $549 w/phone app if anyone likes more of a hands off alternative. It’s all just fancy math that optimizies results via their custom tune, I was glad to help as they needed stock R, been a fun time since.

374D279E-2C69-444E-9805-903506C805C3.jpeg
Don't really think you can compare autocross to track for heat generation.
 

17RGuy

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Count me as #3 maybe?
Only ran one autocross total for each of three heats run time 30 mins each, about hour cool down between heats. Each heat 3 laps but stop, get in line, restart each lap.
Gauge got up to halfway once, 85F peak ambient.

Making dyno’d 367 WHP, a +81 WHP gain. This is with Eurocars gurus RaceChip (prototype) on 93 oct, Koyorad, AfE dry HVA filter, AWE Touring, NBO (as in none). None of those were in at tunes but K&N air filter then.

Their +60 WHP kit should finally be released soon, $549 w/phone app if anyone likes more of a hands off alternative. It’s all just fancy math that optimizies results via their custom tune, I was glad to help as they needed stock R, been a fun time since.

374D279E-2C69-444E-9805-903506C805C3.jpeg
It’s a little concerning to me your gauge even moved during autocross... you are not generating the heat you would during a track session (longer throttle time, higher speeds, redlining more). But with that said, your start and stops between runs should “help” a bit. You have no way to evacuate heat you’ve generated during the sessions (hood vent), so I’d assume that is your reason for increased temps.

Still concerning and I think definitely proves your mods are not conducive at all to alleviating overheating problems.
 


RepyT

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RepyT

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It’s a little concerning to me your gauge even moved during autocross... you are not generating the heat you would during a track session (longer throttle time, higher speeds, redlining more). But with that said, your start and stops between runs should “help” a bit. You have no way to evacuate heat you’ve generated during the sessions (hood vent), so I’d assume that is your reason for increased temps.

Still concerning and I think definitely proves your mods are not conducive at all to alleviating overheating problems.
I agree not close to track conditions. Not sure this proves much of anything good or bad.

First inchworm exercise took longer, hottest part of day, thus about midpoint temp peak reading at end of lap 3. I did couple minutes cool down run hood up and it quickly resumed lower norm temp.

Although the K’rad may not help on track, it should help a little being dual core.
 

RepyT

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FYI from Owners Manual page 555, apparently high temp ok after stop & restart:

“The temperature gauge pointer is at the H mark when you restart the engine after driving under high load conditions such as at high speed or in hilly terrain. This is normal. The gauge goes down after you idle or drive the vehicle for about one minute.”
From an engineering standpoint I get why this happens but some additional cooling margin would have been a good thing, even traceable as stock.

Overheat shouldn’t be an issue for even spirited street driving.
 

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3 people have answered your original question and have asked you questions.

You haven’t answered anyone and are basically posting your original question again...come on man, read. ??‍♂
sorry about asking question several times. I am running OEM tune. Have also bought an Invidia Q300 Cat back exhaust system and PRL intercooler hose kit since last post. Any possibility of the stock ecu generating a mil light when I install the C & R intercooler, PRL hose kit and the Invidia Q300 cat back exhaust.
I have been told that the Acuity reverse hoses could lead to premature water pump failure. Can anyone comment on that?
 

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sorry about asking question several times. I am running OEM tune. Have also bought an Invidia Q300 Cat back exhaust system and PRL intercooler hose kit since last post. Any possibility of the stock ecu generating a mil light when I install the C & R intercooler, PRL hose kit and the Invidia Q300 cat back exhaust.
I have been told that the Acuity reverse hoses could lead to premature water pump failure. Can anyone comment on that?
No worries

Adding bolt ons with the stock tune won’t do anything in terms of adding more power or keeping the heat down.

I’ve heard no such comments about the reverse flow hoses causing pump failure. I highly doubt Acuitys engineers would allow something like that out the door. They tested extensively on track cars for multiple seasons with no reported issues.
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