Oil pan replacement

[With_extra_salt]

Hey guys, so recently on the the road, I hit a manhole cover sticking out an inch or so and my oil pan said bye bye. Leaked oil everywhere and now there’s a puncture in the oil pan. All the parts come in next week for my oil pan replacement, but am wondering if anyone else has done an oil pan replacement and if so, could you give out the details on how you did it and all the torque specs? Thanks

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[Jason Baker]

Fairly straight forward process.
Wipe the mating surfaces down with alcohol after you get the old sealant scrapped off. Clean is your goal.
Reuse as many bolts as you can! Best to use Hondabond or Permatex Grey as a new gasket.
Put a small bead of about a 1/4 inch around the entire mating surface. Too much and it’s a mess, too little, obviously not good either. Make the bead a bit thicker around edges and around the bolt holes.
Reinstall cross crossing bolts in this pattern.
Check the service manual for torque specs. Section 5 ! I am pretty sure they are 10 ft/lbs or less.
Allow a few hours to dry. Put your drain plug back in.
Let her rip!

 

[With_extra_salt]

Fairly straight forward process.
Wipe the mating surfaces down with alcohol after you get the old sealant scrapped off. Clean is your goal.
Reuse as many bolts as you can! Best to use Hondabond or Permatex Grey as a new gasket.
Put a small bead of about a 1/4 inch around the entire mating surface. Too much and it’s a mess, too little, obviously not good either. Make the bead a bit thicker around edges and around the bolt holes.
Reinstall cross crossing bolts in this pattern.
Check the service manual for torque specs. Section 5 ! I am pretty sure they are 10 ft/lbs or less.
Allow a few hours to dry. Put your drain plug back in.
Let her rip!

I heard I have to remove my AC compressor bolts, motor mount, front pipe, and belt just to remove my oil pan?

 

[Jason Baker]

I heard I have to remove my AC compressor bolts, motor mount, front pipe, and belt just to remove my oil pan?

All correct! I didn’t say it would be easy. Doable at home in the driveway? Yes!
Fun? No! 90 minutes with the tools readily available and by yourself.

 

[With_extra_salt]

All correct! I didn’t say it would be easy. Doable at home in the driveway? Yes!
Fun? No! 90 minutes with the tools readily available and by yourself.

Appreciate the support, I do have some questions though, how do I remove the belt? And is there a specific way to put it back on?

Is there a gasket in between the oil pan? Or is it just the Honda bond? And when I put it back on, should I torque it down and leave it overnight to harden or dry?

For the motor mount, would I have to have a jack to support the cvt trans or the oil pan so they don’t get too much stress?

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

Appreciate the support, I do have some questions though, how do I remove the belt? And is there a specific way to put it back on?

Is there a gasket in between the oil pan? Or is it just the Honda bond? And when I put it back on, should I torque it down and leave it overnight to harden or dry?

For the motor mount, would I have to have a jack to support the cvt trans or the oil pan so they don’t get too much stress?

There is a hex cast onto the tensioner that you articulate with a wrench to remove tension from the belt. You must do that to uninstall and install the belt. You can see the hex from the top, it's kind of a tight squeeze but it's doable.

There is no oil pan gasket, it's just RTV to seal the pan. Be sure you clean all oil from the engine around where the pan bolts up to the block, if oil gets on the RTV before it cures it can leak. Definitely let it dry completely for a few hours before filling with oil.

You don't need to support the bottom of the engine when removing the rear mount, the side mounts will support the engine and trans for this work.

 

[latole]

For this repair which is rather complex for someone who is not a mechanic, I would go to a good mechanic.

Between knowing what to do and doing it right, there's often a world of difference and I wouldn't take the chance of having a problem ($$$) on the road because it's not done right.

 

[Jason Baker]

Appreciate the support, I do have some questions though, how do I remove the belt? And is there a specific way to put it back on?

Is there a gasket in between the oil pan? Or is it just the Honda bond? And when I put it back on, should I torque it down and leave it overnight to harden or dry?

For the motor mount, would I have to have a jack to support the cvt trans or the oil pan so they don’t get too much stress?

Belt will need to go as you will need to remove the AC compressor. I think! I don’t recall this second but simply put a long wrench on the belt tensioner. I believe it was a 17 mm.
Simply loosen but do not fully remove the belt.
No gasket! The gasket is the Hondabond. Put the pan back on, torque and then allow it to dry over a few hours. I don’t recall exactly how much time is required but I would say 2 hours as the stuff is anaerobic. Overnight will be more than enough. The big part is a clean and dry mating surface on both the block and the pan!!!!!
I’ve never used anything to support the RMM when removing it’s the motor will roll backward when you remove it but it won’t damage anything. If you are unsure, go ahead and support it.

 

[ManitobaSI]

All good information! One tip I learned first hand. You’ll have to disconnect the turbo drain pipe also. Which isn’t a big deal. But make sure that the pipe isn’t in the way when you reinstall the pan. It tends to want to get in the way so zip tie it before you put the pan on. If you run into issues or have question while you’re doing it. Hit us up with some photos. Also yeah. The hardest part is the belt. Pulling it back from above with a wrench. Pull slowly and constantly. But once you get the hang of it, it’s easy.

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