Oil choice.

Jbegs2020

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Ok so honda recommends 0w 20 full synthetic. What should I be running in my 2020 si? I've had one oil change so far and I did it through Honda.

 

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Pick a 0w-20 that has the SN Plus certification to help prevent LSPI. I believe the comparable ILSAC spec is GF-6. For my first DIY change I went w/ M1 AFE. Supposed to be a pretty solid oil from what I read on BITOG.
 
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Jbegs2020

Jbegs2020

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Pick a 0w-20 that has the SN Plus certification to help prevent LSPI. I believe the comparable ILSAC spec is GF-6. For my first DIY change I went w/ M1 AFE. Supposed to be a pretty solid oil from what I read on BITOG.
Thats a lot of letters and numbers lol. Is it as easy as just typing sn plus certified oil in google?
 

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If you are running an un-modified set up, stick with the factory Viscosity rating of 0W-20.

If you look at different brands, you will find that pretty much any synthetic ow-20 is going to meet a certain level of minimum requirements as long as the "donut" on the back of the bottle has API SN PLUS written on it.

The big difference is going to come from any additional (if any) additives that company may choose to add to their oil.

For instance Some companies make a synthetic 5w30, but they may also make a 5w30 EURO for use European Market cars AND a 5w30 Euro Diesel for use in low ash diesel motors that some Dodge trucks use, even in the states (Castrol comes to mind). All three are Synthetic Oils, all 5w30 but not the same. SRT has a special deal with PENZOIL and they make a Specific 5w40 Oil for those motors that is different from Penzoil's other 5w40 Synthetic. So again, same Grade, still synthetic, but not the same. I haven't seen that much variation in 0w20, but that's only my experience.

I've been wondering the same thing though and I would say if you are gonna look for something out side a standard Synthetic, probably look for something designed for turbocharged applications.
 

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Quaker State Full Synthetic 0W20. Shell owns them now and they are less $20 for a 5 quart at Walmart.
 

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That is what you are running i take it..
I’ve been using mobile one for twenty five year. Seeing that your from fort Myers dose the FT myers Honda give you a choice Honda oil ( synthetic) or mobile one you pay a little more the port Charlotte Honda used to but their under new owners so they stopped offering mobile one
 

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Pick a 0w-20 that has the SN Plus certification to help prevent LSPI. I believe the comparable ILSAC spec is GF-6. For my first DIY change I went w/ M1 AFE. Supposed to be a pretty solid oil from what I read on BITOG.
Actually, the Mobil1 0W-20 AFE is now officially spec'd GF-6A, packaging has been changed slightly, lots of quarts at Advance & Auto Zone with the older package, most of the 5-quart Jugs are new stock and are marked GF-6A. I've been using the M1 0W-20 AFE for many years and my Blackstone Labs UOA reports have been uniformly excellent using the M1 M110A filters and changing at 5k intervals. I've used it in 5 Civics, 2 Fits and now in our new CRV's.
You can usually get a bundle (5 quarts/5-quart jug Of AFE and a M110A filter)at Advance for about $33. I always buy my own and take it to the dealer, they've never objected. As long as it meets specs, they're fine with it. Manager once told me they don't make much on oil anyway.
 
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Jbegs2020

Jbegs2020

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So every one seem to agree with the M1 AFE then. I think I'll hunt some down and give it a shot. Thanks for the advice
 
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Jbegs2020

Jbegs2020

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I’ve been using mobile one for twenty five year. Seeing that your from fort Myers dose the FT myers Honda give you a choice Honda oil ( synthetic) or mobile one you pay a little more the port Charlotte Honda used to but their under new owners so they stopped offering mobile one
What are your thoughts on liqui Molly
 

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Seeing this threads reminds me that I’m just about to break 5k on mine, guess I should figure which oil I’m gonna use lol
 

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What are your thoughts on liqui Molly
Probably a decent oil, not as easy to find, no idea on price. Most of the current 0W-20 synthetic oils will have to meet GF-6A requirements, so take your pick. Mobil1 is easy to find, reasonably priced and used as factory fill in some very expensive engines (whose manufacturer DON'T want to have warranty issues) and the M1 filters are generally excellent. It has, as I stated, worked well for me and produced excellent UOA'S for many years. I have never added oil between 5k change intervals in any of my Hondas and have never had a lubrication related issue. Proven product, excellent service history and reputation, I'll stick with it. There is NO magic oil IMHO.
 

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Just pick a 0W-20 oil that meets the latest standard, GF-6A, API SN Plus. The usual name brands are fine. Go with 0W30 if racing on the track. It's won't matter if you pick the usual big brands.

It's hard to define "Full synthetic" because no one knows if the bottle you buy mostly has group 3 or group 4 base oils.

If I have to give a recommendation based on NOACK and volatility because of DI. I am not educated enough to know what minute differences have in the long run because of the variability of everyone's driving style and location.

If it ester base vs non ester base oil... It's generally known ester base oils will cause rubber seals to swell, but you'll have to rely on other forums for more information

Brands you won't find in stores in the US:
Ravenol
Kroon-Oil
Idemitsu
Petronas

 

 
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