Oil Changes

Cornercarver

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Running full synthetic, I go by the MM. Dealer service dept said don't even consider changing until the MM shows like 15 - 20 %. I am at 50 % oil life after six months and 4,000 miles. I like to err on the side of caution. Full synthetic oil will outlast the oil filter it is running through. So yeah, cheap insurance to do it early. Especially on high output turbo engines. So I like to do it when the MM gets anywhere south of 40 %. Necessary? No. Prudent? Oh yeah.





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Cornercarver

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All Russia driving is severe driving (swigs vodka straight from the bottle).
So I am thinking the Arizona desert - triple digits for months on end - constitutes severe driving.
Another reason to not push it.
 

GiggleFactory

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Working at a dealer I can tell you that so far I haven't seen any oil consumption issues on the 1.5t engines yet but doesn't mean they won't get there...

Personally I do mine at 3500-4500. 0w-20 full synthetic. At 91k miles and oil doesn't drop much at all on the dipstick in this range.
 

RehabJP

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Full Synth every 5K and if your running a blend or god forbid regular oil then every 3K but do not put anything but full synth in your 10 gen civic
 

Cornercarver

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The Honda specified oil is actually a blend, but I always ask for full synthetic, and the Honda dealers I go to all have gone to full synthetic for the SI or CTR.
 

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I assume the dealer uses conventional oil for the "Free" oil changes they offer after you buy the car from them?
Any 0W-20 will be a synthetic blend. Dealer should tell you what they use. Two Honda dealers near me, one uses Honda (Idemitzu) other uses Pennzoil blend (equivalent of yellow bottle but in 55 gallon drum I assume).
 

Cornercarver

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Any 0W-20 will be a synthetic blend. Dealer should tell you what they use. Two Honda dealers near me, one uses Honda (Idemitzu) other uses Pennzoil blend (equivalent of yellow bottle but in 55 gallon drum I assume).
Thank you, good to know.
 

GiggleFactory

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Any 0W-20 will be a synthetic blend. Dealer should tell you what they use. Two Honda dealers near me, one uses Honda (Idemitzu) other uses Pennzoil blend (equivalent of yellow bottle but in 55 gallon drum I assume).
At my dealer we have 2 250gallon tanks that get refilled periodically. 1 for 5w20 (for older cars) and the other is a full synthetic pennzoil

Some people still come in and ask for bottled full synthetic tho. They get the Honda branded Mobil One.
 

The Vyzitor

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Oil, every 3 to 5k.
Oil filter, every other oil change, so 6 to 10k.
 

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Every 500 miles...
 

Cornercarver

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I hooked up a custom 20 quart oil tank and pump that constantly supplies fresh oil at all times, and also an automated filter swapper with a six cartridge capacity. I mean why take a chance? this way I don't drive even one mile on anything but a new filter and oil. A bit cramped and it did add weight. So the rear seats had to go. Patent pending.
Okay, satire aside there is a point of diminishing returns. I figure on full or even partial synthetic, six months or 3,500 miles and you should be fine. Unless you are racing, can't imagine changing in less than 3,000 miles. It has been almost six months, and 4,000 miles. The MM on the CTR is still at 60 % of oil life left. But I will still change it anyway due to oil-changia nervosa and the time interval.
 

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I put synthetic 00-20w API SN+. API is basically the grade certification of the oil. API SP came not too long ago don't know how will affect. Make sure you don't get API SM is nor for GDI engines. I know you can change the filter every other change but I do it every change. I am used to it 20 years of changing my own oil.
 

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Any 0W-20 will be a synthetic blend. Dealer should tell you what they use. Two Honda dealers near me, one uses Honda (Idemitzu) other uses Pennzoil blend (equivalent of yellow bottle but in 55 gallon drum I assume).
Wait, what ? Do you mean any 0W-20 from a DEALER? I just checked the mobile1 site (the brand I usually use as I get it at Costco on sale) and everything says full synthetic.
 

VTEC R

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Older cars keep an eye on the oil level and see if it’s burning any oil. I had a Z24 daily years ago it looked cosmetically fine, but those engines were oil hogs. As long as your not burning 3k is a good idea. I use to have to add between changes. Burnt about a quart every 3K after 125k.

Anytime I begin modifying a car and the heat and wear starts increasing I always drop to 3K. I’ve already had my 1st oil change and getting ready for my 6k next.

I don’t ever change my own oil, find a good dealership and for $30I prefer to let someone else do it. It would cost me as much to do it myself without the time involved.
 

Cornercarver

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Older cars keep an eye on the oil level and see if it’s burning any oil. I had a Z24 daily years ago it looked cosmetically fine, but those engines were oil hogs. As long as your not burning 3k is a good idea. I use to have to add between changes. Burnt about a quart every 3K after 125k.

Anytime I begin modifying a car and the heat and wear starts increasing I always drop to 3K. I’ve already had my 1st oil change and getting ready for my 6k next.

I don’t ever change my own oil, find a good dealership and for $30I prefer to let someone else do it. It would cost me as much to do it myself without the time involved.
Agreed, especially since with a car under warranty, might as well have the dealer check it out and do any warranty work while it is there for its oil change. I got my battery replaced no, charge in 2018 on my '17 Si after I had it just under a year. AZ sun will kill most batteries quickly. Some things make sense to do yourself - like swapping out a cabin filter in less than two minutes and just over $ 20 in parts versus being overcharged $ 50 by the dealer.
 

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