Oil catch can waste of money?

[ApexEight]

I fail to see the relevance to catch can no? You just wondering as an aside or are you saying it may be relevant?


3 of these ctr guys obviously needed it.

Id switch away from 20 to 30 weight oil and recommend amsoil signature series 0w30. They make a 0w20 formulation too just make sure its ss. Its the best most known oil out there and provides 100% lspi protection.

There are walmart/autozone oils that are incredible and specific made for our dit engines. Like 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, dexos 1 – Gen 2 API SN Plus, 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN “Plus” and Mobil 1 European FS 0w40. These two are deceivingly cheap.

Then there is 5W30 Renewable Lubricants, Super High Performance Passenger Vehicle, Bio-SynXtra new plant based formulation especially made for dit engines and made in usa. Incredible oil no one knows about yet. Especially good for racing as it practically doesnt lose and wear protection to 275F.

All mentioned oils are specially designed for our dit engines and contain lspi prevention additives.

I'm assuming you also read 540 RAT's blog? I've been running QSUD 5W30 and a Fram Ultra in my FA5. Seems like a quality oil and I love the price point. What percentage LSPI is the Ultimate Durability?

@Si_chRis did that FK8 have a PCV catch can but not the CCV, or neither? I'm wondering why he said dual catch cans are needed.

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[batman900]

Been debating on this but kind of thinking I may just go with a good lspi prevention oil. Ty for the tip on the oil, didn't know there was such a thing till this thread.

I've had catch cans on my previous Silverados year 14+ with direct injection and they caught 10X what people are seeing with these cars, goes to show how good the Honda engine is. I used to have to empty mine every 1k miles because it would be 1/2 - 3/4 full with a gas / oil / water mixture. Yet guys run over 200k on those engines without cans and no issues. They for sure have carbon build up but it's not causing problems besides an unperceived loss of power. Different vehicle with a different purpose..... I know.

Something to look out for with these "besides boost leaks" is condensation freezing within the line or can during cold winters if you live in that sort of climate. If your lucky you will pop a hose before any other sort of damage happens. This has a lot to do with the placement of the can, closer to the engine is better and these seem to be installed very close = more heat and less water. I haven't seen anyone damage an engine yet because of this but I have seen popped hoses because of it "different forums, not this car."

On the plus side with my trucks, I always got better mpg with a can. No doubt they still serve a purpose.

 

[Jimmyjambo_fk8]

Technically, we require two catch cans, the PCV and the CCV, (PCV being in the rear of the engine bay and CCV being in the front).

All in all, it helps longevity of the motor by catching the possible build-up. They are more of a safety measure. Since we are direct injected, we will see more build up than normal since the fuel does not clean the valves as a port injection does. Should you worry about it? Kinda, but not a high priority if you just daily drive it and never see a track.

Build up can be mostly found on the valves and in the intake manifold. The intake manifold will develop a film of oil and can dampen the performance by restricting air flow. ( It happen to my vette that I had for drag racing and it was nasty as fuck and cut my time by a tad, I tested the results with a clean intake manifold btw)

If you do track it, then I highly recommend it as you will be cutting down your longevity of the motor without them.

As of what I know, Radium has both PCV and CCV catch cans available (I'm sure there are other companies out there with both PCV and CCV, I just have my eyes on the radium ones)

I really appreciate the detailed message. I’m going to order the dual kit then. Happy Friday!

 

[ToofHurts]

I installed the radium PCV catch can. If work works - or doesn't work - for $200 it is an easy insurance policy. Besides it looks great! and a fun install.

 

[REC13]

Catch can is my next addition to my FK8. I'm undecided on the single or dual can set up.

 

[fatherpain]

Will you be tracking your R? If so I’d recommend the dual set up

Catch can is my next addition to my FK8. I'm undecided on the single or dual can set up.

 

[REC13]

Will you be tracking your R? If so I’d recommend the dual set up

I have a purpose built DC2 GSR for track duty, but it is hard to resist the temptation to take the CTR to the track. I'm afraid to push my CTR too hard and have an off track incident and maybe hurt it.

 

[SHIFTT_IX_MR]

Here’s mine: Radium PCV
1200 miles
Royal Purple 10w-30

 

[Fountainhead]

Why not plug the intake side, then run a long hose down below the belly pan from the crankcase with an old school cute little filter on it?
That way you're relieving pressure on the crankcase and not drawing oil and blowby into your intake?
I don't have a dog in the catch can fight, for or against, but simply wonder why not do the above?
Is there some sort of negative pressure needed in the crankcase to keep the oil circulating better?
Or is it simply another environmental add-on?

 

[SHIFTT_IX_MR]

Why not plug the intake side, then run a long hose down below the belly pan from the crankcase with an old school cute little filter on it?
That way you're relieving pressure on the crankcase and not drawing oil and blowby into your intake?
I don't have a dog in the catch can fight, for or against, but simply wonder why not do the above?
Is there some sort of negative pressure needed in the crankcase to keep the oil circulating better?
Or is it simply another environmental add-on?

IT'S TO RELIEVE CRANK CASE PRESSURE.
I'D PLUG IT, BUT WHAT GETS ME ITS HOW BAD THE OIL LOOKS. i DON;T WANT THAT OIL STAYING OR GOING BACK INTO THE MANIFOLD. BIG REASON IS WITH HAVING DIRECT INJECTION, THAT OIL ENDS UP ON THE INTAKE VALVES, AND WITHOUT TRADITIONAL EFI PORT INJECTION WHICH SPRAYS FUEL INTO THE MANIFOLD - IN TURN THE FUEL DETERGENTS CLEAN PARTS - I KNOW THIS OIL WILL JUST CAKE UP THE INTAKE VALVES. IT MAY NOT ELIMINATE IT, BUT I CANT IMAGINE WITH TURBO TURBO CONNECTED DIRECTLY TO THE HEAD (HEAD IS RUNNING HOTTER), THAT THIS OIL DOES ANYTHING BUT ADD TO THE BUILD UP ON THE INTAKE VALVES.

 

[SmokeGhost]

im of the opinion that if you mostly do short trips (engine doesnt get up to temp for a good period of time) a catch can is most beneficial. but that would be the same on any gas engine.
i do mostly highway driving and am not worried about build up.
many years ago before global warmingp )i had a 2006 mazdaspeed6 and those were known for carbon build up. same style of driving as today, mostly highway. every 15k miles i would remove the intake manifold and although i saw buildup, it was very acute and not the horror stories i saw in forums.
me removing the intake manifold was for my curiosity.

it seems most people here dont keep the fk8 very long. so a catch can is potential waste of money imo

 

[JJK18]

Again, thank you Akuto and Lust for the recommendations...Radium dual catch cans are now installed without the petcock drain. The PCV catch can was a snap...CCV was a bit more involved. Interested to see how much will be caught in the CCV.

@fatherpain It looks like the PCV can won't work with a flex fuel kit, is that right? or is there some kind of bracket these days that allows both mods to fit in there?

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

@fatherpain It looks like the PCV can won't work with a flex fuel kit, is that right? or is there some kind of bracket these days that allows both mods to fit in there?

you can just relocate the catch can to make them fit. Or there is a bracket on sale to mount both flex fuel and catch can at the same spot.

 

[Centripetal]

Why not plug the intake side, then run a long hose down below the belly pan from the crankcase with an old school cute little filter on it?
That way you're relieving pressure on the crankcase and not drawing oil and blowby into your intake?
I don't have a dog in the catch can fight, for or against, but simply wonder why not do the above?
Is there some sort of negative pressure needed in the crankcase to keep the oil circulating better?
Or is it simply another environmental add-on?

If you do not relieve the positive pressure in the crankcase it can actually push oil out of the turbo through the drain.

Sometimes it will also catch water and/or gasoline as well, which you do not want in your oil.

 

[V3N0M_VZL4]

Motivated by this post, I decided to service my catch can after 6 months in usr, honestly I have not moved my car much since I have been working from home since March 2020, however I was surprised by the amount of oil collected, for me if it's worth it i'd rather have the oil stay there than in my intake system, judge for yourself from the attached video, the liquid smell to oil and gasoline.

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