Oil catch can waste of money?

[fatherpain]

0-20W Genuine Honda full synthetic.

I suspect the high amount of oil carryover may be related to the Eventuri intake... dunno though

@fatherpain what kind of oil are you using?

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[FlexRex]

0-20W Genuine Honda full synthetic.

I suspect the high amount of oil carryover may be related to the Eventuri intake... dunno though

Is trying a different oil one oic out of the question or no?

 

[FlexRex]

Amsoil 0w20 or 0w30 make sure it is signature series. Id run that one oil interval and check your can again. Empty it and clean before hand, obviously.

There are other oils that are just as good but you wouldnt believe me, and thats the best one and easier to believe.

There is no way you shouldn’t have that much oil in your can w proper oil designed for dit engines.

Whats your driving style? How long are 90% or more of your trips? Dont let car warm up, turn on and drive. Just easier on throttle and dont boost and exceed say 3500rpm until oil warm.

On the bright side if you send oil for analysis you have a sample in your can. Lol

 

[PEPSIFLAME]

Would it be worth installing a catch can on a 1.5T that's a daily and will be modded pretty heavily going forward?

 

[FlexRex]

@PEPSIFLAME assuming one uses correct oil that is 100% lspi resistant there is no need for a catch can.

However real world data, as you can see in pics, is different with honda 0w20 oil. If thats what you use i would suggest you buy a can or switch to a better oil.

You could also check your ic or ic hose for oil deposits/dry. Then decide. Mine is dry w 18k miles of daily spirited driving, but also different platform fyi.

 

[ez12a]

I have a dual Radium catch can setup waiting to be installed once the warranty runs out, or perhaps I'll wait even longer until i need to do a carbon cleaning (if ever) to install it.

But I'm skeptical about the benefits of the catch can in the CTR application. We'll have to see the amount of build up on the valves as some DD'ed CTRs climb in mileage.

Kind of like CTR aftermarket intakes where the benefits even in tuned applications are not that great unless you get an Eventuri. A simple drop in filter into the stock intake housing outperforms a number of aftermarket intakes.

 

[FlexRex]

@ez12a check your intake inlet for oil and hope for dry. Then you wont need a can setup or to worry about valve buildup.

Valve buildup is a result of a combination of egr and oil on your valves. My egr is unplugged and tuned out.

 

[fatherpain]

I jump in and drive. Probably not the best for car. Live in SoCal so temps are not extreme. Drive easy until the temp gauge reaches normal reading.

From there normally shift @4.5k. rarely go below 3k unless it’s 6th cruising on the freeway.

Will punch it every once in awhile if the opportunity presents itself where I have the road all to myself, super early morning

Daily distance to work is 15-18 miles one way depending if freeway is clear or take the shorter city street route. 20 minutes in the morning. 30 minutes in the afternoon

After that take my sons around town and soccer on the weekend so go all over the place. 25k miles first year...

I’m open to switching to another oil, but have been using Honda oil to this point.

Would be interesting to compare the amount of oil collected in say.... 3K miles of driving with others here

Amsoil 0w20 or 0w30 make sure it is signature series. Id run that one oil interval and check your can again. Empty it and clean before hand, obviously.

There are other oils that are just as good but you wouldnt believe me, and thats the best one and easier to believe.

There is no way you shouldn’t have that much oil in your can w proper oil designed for dit engines.

Whats your driving style? How long are 90% or more of your trips? Dont let car warm up, turn on and drive. Just easier on throttle and dont boost and exceed say 3500rpm until oil warm.

On the bright side if you send oil for analysis you have a sample in your can. Lol

 

[FlexRex]

@fatherpain its best for engine to drive right away. Your shifting and driving describes mine. I try not to drive below 3000rpm and live in 3-5000rpm range too. Riding that torque curve, mine peaks at 31-3200rpm.

Yes, it would be nice to compare with others as well as compare amounts with running different oils.

Personally i wouldnt put anything less than w30 in my car, manual recommends 0w20 yet i have used 0w40 yr round since my first oil change at 1.5k miles. Fbo on e50 in phx az. My tuner recommends a different 5w40 oil too, but i was already set on using w40 oil on my own.

 

[Trash Panda]

Would it be worth installing a catch can on a 1.5T that's a daily and will be modded pretty heavily going forward?

This was my first 3,000 miles on 1.5T when I figured out how to take the thing loose. Mishimoto. I drive 90% highway too; so it is worth it to me.

 

[FlexRex]

@Trash Panda what oil?

Guys pls try to include interval and oil you were using when posting pics of oil amount in can.

 

[Trash Panda]

@Trash Panda what oil?

Guys pls try to include interval and oil you were using when posting pics of oil amount in can.

It was the factory original 0w-20(brand new car)...first check was 3,000 miles on it.

 

[fatherpain]

Hmm someone needs to start a thread to compare catch can contents at 3k miles. I’ll start counting once I have my car back together

 

[SHIFTT_IX_MR]

Damns that a bit of blow by.

For me catch cans are simple: Do i want oil to contaminate my intake, and intercooler and reduce my ability to cool the charged air? No. But i have to be honest here that i don't fully believe a catch can grabs
ALL the oil (or other fluids) from blow by, and since we will all have some small degree of blow by, is it really worth it? YES, i would say even if you don't track it, you'd be really surprise to see how much oil film builds up.
I have one on my EVO IX because i have to deal with the notoriously high oil pressure, I have it only to keep as much oil as i can from contaminating the intake and intercooler (and i also include the pipes when i say intake). Before when i didn't have the catch can on my EVO, the inside of my Intercooler (at least the parts i could see and touch) and all cold side pipes had a film of oil on them, now, i have nothing, ever, at least that i can see and touch.
I can't see in the intercooler core nor can i touch it, so i cannot attest that my intercooler is not contaminated- cutting in down the middle may show me something i cannot see.
i change intercoolers often too (mainly because i trash the other ones, or i have changed my setup).
I will be upgrading to turbo again as i try to go to attempt to reset the record for the Stock block, full weigh EVO IX, and with that upgrade i;ll be moving onto four inch core. When i remove the intercooler i post pics of the the inside and of the charge pipes, side by side next to an identical set (but never used or installed) of pipes from ETS and an intercooler from AMS. I tend to keep spares of some parts for the EVO.
Granted this may be like comparing apples to oranges, as i have found out some EVOs do better with a seal catch can system than they do with a vented catch can system. For my EVO, vented works fine.But i'd figured this may be beneficial to someone here.

 

[stoots_sgp_fk8]

This is my catch can after 2000 miles. I’m using the JLT 3.0 one. Easier install than the mishimoto and cheaper so I went with that.

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