Official W2 Turbocharger Design Thread (yes it happening) - 27WON W2 Turbo Kit

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Vincent@27WON

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Thanks, that was a good read! Will we have to switch up our oil type for a W2 on 91 octane? I am a bit paranoid changing the oil type here where our winters are so cold. Also for the testing was a race or street MAF housing used?
 


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Thanks, that was a good read! Will we have to switch up our oil type for a W2 on 91 octane? I am a bit paranoid changing the oil type here where our winters are so cold. Also for the testing was a race or street MAF housing used?
Changing oil will be dependent on power levels and fuel type, bust assuming the power bumps of the W2 you will likely be bumping up a weight.
 
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Those are solid numbers.. my non-Si internals are getting nervous
As noted in the article. This was all done on a stock block. This turbo should be able to take you all the way to the safe limit of your stock block and then a bit more for those who build later.
 

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@Vincent@27WON so for people who mainly live below 5k RPM and rarely run out to redline (especially for non Si ECUs with our K.con) would you maybe recommend a W1 for most cases to not sacrifice so much bottom end?
 


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As noted in the article. This was all done on a stock block. This turbo should be able to take you all the way to the safe limit of your stock block and then a bit more for those who build later.
IIRC, doesn't the SI still have stronger rods than the base civics/hatches?
 

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IIRC, doesn't the SI still have stronger rods than the base civics/hatches?
Yes but you can make enough torque down low to break them with ethanol/methanol or an aftermarket turbo. Hell, there's one or two threads around where people threw a rod on stock turbo with too aggressive tune.

@Vincent@27WON, I noticed from the dyno charts you were reving out to about 6800... is that where you guys started experiencing valve float? Or maybe just said "no more" since torque was dropping/hp maxed?
 
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@Vincent@27WON so for people who mainly live below 5k RPM and rarely run out to redline (especially for non Si ECUs with our K.con) would you maybe recommend a W1 for most cases to not sacrifice so much bottom end?
i think the W1 will still be the fit for ~75 % of people, the W2 will be for the rest. The more highway pull, high horsepower sort of folks.
 

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i think the W1 will still be the fit for ~75 % of people, the W2 will be for the rest. The more highway pull, high horsepower sort of folks.
With the release of W2 are there any foreseeable revisions to the W1? Namely referencing reported oil burning issues.
 

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Will the W2 ball-bearing option eventually trickle down to the W1? A ball-bearing W1 specifically for forged internal engines like the one I have would dominate in the types of sanctioned racing I am aiming for. Of course, the W1 with a ball bearing might spool so fast it defeats the purpose, but the thought.

If not, a W2 ball-bearing will certainly be on my shortlist for mods. I'm dead-set on Ball bearing, given my turbo sees primarily extremely dynamic load, and spool speed is crucial.
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