Official 10th Gen SI ( DYNO Thread )

BoostedDreams

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Design

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Good idea. But to be honest, I'm more interested in seeing gains over baseline. Otherwise this becomes more about whose dyno reads more "accurately," which is like chasing a unicorn of sorts.

AFRs would be nice to see as well. :cool:
 

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Speaking of which, how do we do a data log? I have tuner view on the HU
 

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You can setup on board logging for your unit via the KTuner software option for on board logging on the toolbar.
You can hit the record button on the toolbar to start and stop recording in the KTuner software while connected and logging.
You can hit Start/Stop Recording on a V2 unit in the main menu.
You can hit Start/Stop On Board Logging in the TunerView app while connected and logging.
 

teders

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Full PRL bolt ons (catted DP, Race MAF CAI)
fx350
PRL flexfuel kit
PRL big turbo kit (GTX 2860R gen2)
ktuner v2, custom tune by Derek Robinson

315 whp 320 wtq on 35% ethanol at 24PSI
300 whp 290 wtq on 93 octane at 24PSI

This is a very conservative tune with minimal timing advance.

Those were the numbers that Derek's dynapack read when we tuned it. At the time, my wastegate actuator was not properly preloaded, so i would hit 24PSI max, and then fall to about 20PSI at redline. Since then I have corrected the preload tension issue and now boost hits a max target of 24PSI and then holds at about 22 PSI. So on ethanol its probably around 320/320.
 

BoostedDreams

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Full PRL bolt ons (catted DP, Race MAF CAI)
fx350
PRL flexfuel kit
PRL big turbo kit (GTX 2860R gen2)
ktuner v2, custom tune by Derek Robinson

315 whp 320 wtq on 35% ethanol at 24PSI
300 whp 290 wtq on 93 octane at 24PSI

This is a very conservative tune with minimal timing advance.

Those were the numbers that Derek's dynapack read when we tuned it. At the time, my wastegate actuator was not properly preloaded, so i would hit 24PSI max, and then fall to about 20PSI at redline. Since then I have corrected the preload tension issue and now boost hits a max target of 24PSI and then holds at about 22 PSI. So on ethanol its probably around 320/320.
Don’t take this in a criticising way, but why didn’t you opt for the W1 vs PRL kit, if you wanted low 300#’s? Seems like it would have been a superior bang for the buck at $1,500 for the drop in turbo, plus a tune.
 

teders

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Don’t take this in a criticising way, but why didn’t you opt for the W1 vs PRL kit, if you wanted low 300#’s? Seems like it would have been a superior bang for the buck at $1,500 for the drop in turbo, plus a tune.
I assume you are asking why i chose the PRL full turbo replacement kit, instead of the W1 drop in. You are correct in pointing out that, based off my dyno results, the W1 would probably have produced the same amount of power at 1/3 the price. The reasons i chose the PRL kit over the W1 turbo are the following:

1. The Garret turbo utilizes dual ceramic ball bearings in the bearing cartridge as opposed to the W1's use of journal bearings in the bearing cartridge . Ball bearing turbos are more durable due to simply having less moving parts, are less prone to oil starvation issues and also spool faster than Journal bearing turbos.
2. The Garret "disco potato" 2860R gen 2 has had a longer time out in the market in various applications and so has a bit more of a guarantee in terms of reliability.
3. the GTX2860R gen2 is more efficient than the W1, based on equivalent MAP pressures. Derek had tuned other civics who had the 27 won drop in, and they're cars were pushing much more boost than mine at even less power output. In order for the W1 to produce 320 whp, it would have to be closer to 28-30 PSI, which is at the limits of its output. This is a nice segue into my next point.
4. The PRL kit ultimately offers more room for growth than the 27 Won drop in. I'm probably not even demanding half of what the garret turbo is capable of.
5. All of the other parts of my car are from PRL, so i wanted to keep the build consistent with a turbo upgrade from PRL.

Hope that helps answer your question.
 
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BoostedDreams

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I assume you are asking why i chose the PRL full turbo replacement kit, instead of the W1 drop in. You are correct in pointing out that, based off my dyno results, the W1 would probably have produced the same amount of power at 1/3 the price. The reasons i chose the PRL kit over the W1 turbo are the following:

1. The Garret turbo utilizes dual ceramic ball bearings in the bearing cartridge as opposed to the W1's use of journal bearings in the bearing cartridge . Ball bearing turbos are more durable due to simply having less moving parts, are less prone to oil starvation issues and also spool faster than Journal bearing turbos.
2. The Garret "disco potato" 2860R gen 2 has had a longer time out in the market in various applications and so has a bit more of a guarantee in terms of reliability.
3. the GTX2860R gen2 is more efficient than the W1, based on equivalent MAP pressures. Derek had tuned other civics who had the 27 won drop in, and they're cars were pushing much more boost than mine at even less power output. In order for the W1 to produce 320 whp, it would have to be closer to 28-30 PSI, which is at the limits of its output. This is a nice segue into my next point.
4. The PRL kit ultimately offers more room for growth than the 27 Won drop in. I'm probably not even demanding half of what the garret turbo is capable of.
5. All of the other parts of my car are from PRL, so i wanted to keep the build consistent with a turbo upgrade from PRL.

Hope that helps answer your question.
Yes, it does ! If money where no object I would go the PRL route as well. For my goals, I like the simplicity of the w1, and I think it’s been out long enough without any real failures to justify buying one in the future.
I do remember back in the early 2000’s how the disco potatoes were the turbo of choice for all the sr20 guys. Great turbo!

What are your power goals ?
 

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I assume you are asking why i chose the PRL full turbo replacement kit, instead of the W1 drop in. You are correct in pointing out that, based off my dyno results, the W1 would probably have produced the same amount of power at 1/3 the price. The reasons i chose the PRL kit over the W1 turbo are the following:

1. The Garret turbo utilizes dual ceramic ball bearings in the bearing cartridge as opposed to the W1's use of journal bearings in the bearing cartridge . Ball bearing turbos are more durable due to simply having less moving parts, are less prone to oil starvation issues and also spool faster than Journal bearing turbos.
2. The Garret "disco potato" 2860R gen 2 has had a longer time out in the market in various applications and so has a bit more of a guarantee in terms of reliability.
3. the GTX2860R gen2 is more efficient than the W1, based on equivalent MAP pressures. Derek had tuned other civics who had the 27 won drop in, and they're cars were pushing much more boost than mine at even less power output. In order for the W1 to produce 320 whp, it would have to be closer to 28-30 PSI, which is at the limits of its output. This is a nice segue into my next point.
4. The PRL kit ultimately offers more room for growth than the 27 Won drop in. I'm probably not even demanding half of what the garret turbo is capable of.
5. All of the other parts of my car are from PRL, so i wanted to keep the build consistent with a turbo upgrade from PRL.

Hope that helps answer your question.
Thank you for your analysis, this helps others make an informed decision.
 

teders

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Yes, it does ! If money where no object I would go the PRL route as well. For my goals, I like the simplicity of the w1, and I think it’s been out long enough without any real failures to justify buying one in the future.
I do remember back in the early 2000’s how the disco potatoes where the turbo of choice for all the sr20 guys. Great turbo choice

What are your power goals ?
So at the time that I bought the turbo, my goal was 400 whp. Then a few stories were shared of people bending rods and transmission failures at the 370 range. A 400 HP civic is pretty cool, but my main desire is reliability. I would rather have a 320 whp civic that is effortlessly making that power than a 400 whp civic that is doing so at the ragged edge.

Also, after recently attending the wake the dragon meet, my car is PLENTY fast at its current power level. Now I'm more interested in doing suspension and brake upgrades, as those systems are the ones that were pushed to the limit at the dragon.
 

Design

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The Si's bi-mode suspension really puts a damper on our options (pun intended). With your mods, the Hypermax IV seems to be about the only system worth getting. And IMHO, aside from HFP, seems to be the only properly engineered setup we can get for our cars right now. :(

EDIT: Also noticed we have a member in the classifieds selling a set.

https://www.hksusa.com/application/files/5815/3117/0972/80230-KH001_MAX4GT_FC3_Si.pdf
 
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Cscott_xGen

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  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
Lets see some more dyno numbers guy!
 

teders

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The Si's bi-mode suspension really puts a damper on our options (pun intended). With your mods, the Hypermax IV seems to be about the only system worth getting. And IMHO, aside from HFP, seems to be the only properly engineered setup we can get for our cars right now. :(

EDIT: Also noticed we have a member in the classifieds selling a set.

https://www.hksusa.com/application/files/5815/3117/0972/80230-KH001_MAX4GT_FC3_Si.pdf
Are those the coils that allow you to retain sport mode? Funnily enough, when I did the big turbo upgrade, I lost sport mode because I'm no longer using the electronic waste gate actuator. That's something that Ktuner is working on correcting though
 

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