OEM brake longevity?

[TriangleHeat]

The brake pad life is subjective depending on who's driving and under which conditions. My mother would sometimes have one set every year with 30k miles mostly city driving. I've driven more than 50k miles without a single brake pad change mostly long highway drives.

All of that is moot though because the brake pads are not a "replace by mileage" item. You replace them when they need to be replaced, so your only real option if you think they're compromised is to look at them like the other posters said. Look at the pictures of the brake pad and calipers that were posted, they almost all look exactly like that, a thick layer of friction material bonded to a steel backing plate. Then go look at your caliper on your car and look for the same parts and compare.

By the way, you said your brakes have always squealed at low speed? Brakes should never squeal at any speed. Something is physically causing the squeal to occur, whether its a wear item (the pad wear sensor) or some kind of damage (the splash shield is bent and contacting the rotor), incorrect geometry (a ridge worn into the rotor), a missing part (rubber bushing on caliper), etc. The brakes should be 100% quiet aside from some grinding sounds for the first few stops when the rotor has flash rust on it after a humid day. Anything else is abnormal and should be checked out.

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[spyder57]

The brake pad life is subjective depending on who's driving and under which conditions. My mother would sometimes have one set every year with 30k miles mostly city driving. I've driven more than 50k miles without a single brake pad change mostly long highway drives.

All of that is moot though because the brake pads are not a "replace by mileage" item. You replace them when they need to be replaced, so your only real option if you think they're compromised is to look at them like the other posters said. Look at the pictures of the brake pad and calipers that were posted, they almost all look exactly like that, a thick layer of friction material bonded to a steel backing plate. Then go look at your caliper on your car and look for the same parts and compare.

By the way, you said your brakes have always squealed at low speed? Brakes should never squeal at any speed. Something is physically causing the squeal to occur, whether its a wear item (the pad wear sensor) or some kind of damage (the splash shield is bent and contacting the rotor), incorrect geometry (a ridge worn into the rotor), a missing part (rubber bushing on caliper), etc. The brakes should be 100% quiet aside from some grinding sounds for the first few stops when the rotor has flash rust on it after a humid day. Anything else is abnormal and should be checked out.

FYI you're in the Type R forum. Very aggressive brake pads (like the OEM Type R pads) will often squeal when cold.

 

[NapalmEnema]

I appreciate the good info Cornercarver, my question is it really necessary to replace my front rotors when I'm ready to replace my brake pads? It seems like it's too early they still look ok no sign of cracks. I don't track my R and probably never will but I do daily drive it a lot. My R is sitting on 28,000 km.

Doubt you will need to repair your rotors - check threads on how to replace your brake pads it is really easy and you can save hundreds doing it yourself. The thing about cars like ours - they are designed for easy brake pad changes so you can take it to the track easily and put in track pads then and swap back to street. So trust me - read up on it and you can prob tackle yourself.

 

[longthaitran91]

How long are brakes supposed to last? I know this is a type r forum, I’m still on my same pads since I bought my si 3.5 years ago. I’m at 57k miles with tons of stop and go. Haven’t heard any squeaking other than turning my wheel to the left. Still can’t figure out what’s causing it, since it comes and goes

 

[Cornercarver]

The brake pad life is subjective depending on who's driving and under which conditions. My mother would sometimes have one set every year with 30k miles mostly city driving. I've driven more than 50k miles without a single brake pad change mostly long highway drives.

All of that is moot though because the brake pads are not a "replace by mileage" item. You replace them when they need to be replaced, so your only real option if you think they're compromised is to look at them like the other posters said. Look at the pictures of the brake pad and calipers that were posted, they almost all look exactly like that, a thick layer of friction material bonded to a steel backing plate. Then go look at your caliper on your car and look for the same parts and compare.

By the way, you said your brakes have always squealed at low speed? Brakes should never squeal at any speed. Something is physically causing the squeal to occur, whether its a wear item (the pad wear sensor) or some kind of damage (the splash shield is bent and contacting the rotor), incorrect geometry (a ridge worn into the rotor), a missing part (rubber bushing on caliper), etc. The brakes should be 100% quiet aside from some grinding sounds for the first few stops when the rotor has flash rust on it after a humid day. Anything else is abnormal and should be checked out.

This is true - brakes should not squeal.. It may be something as simple as as build up of brake dust, which can be blown out, or in the case of a squeal on my SI, it was a caliper a hair out of spec that was rubbing. Never ignore brake squeal. It is trying to tell you something.

 

[tinyman392]

This is true - brakes should not squeal.. It may be something as simple as as build up of brake dust, which can be blown out, or in the case of a squeal on my SI, it was a caliper a hair out of spec that was rubbing. Never ignore brake squeal. It is trying to tell you something.

Stock FK8 brakes squeal. To be honest, most aggressive compounds will squeal until they’re up to temp.

 

[Gansan]

This is true - brakes should not squeal.. It may be something as simple as as build up of brake dust, which can be blown out, or in the case of a squeal on my SI, it was a caliper a hair out of spec that was rubbing. Never ignore brake squeal. It is trying to tell you something.

The issue here is different people will report their brakes are squealing even though different high pitched sounds are being produced. The two main ones:

1. Clear high pitched squeal--By "clear" I mean it sounds like a clean tone. This is the rotor resonating with the friction of the pad. It is pretty common and doesn't indicate a problem other than being annoying.

2. Metallic screeching--This is either the brake pad wear indicator dragging on the rotor or the backing plate hitting the rotor. This is an indication you have to service your brakes immediately. It's more of a scratchy sound and isn't a clear pitch like the first one.

As the pad wears, it can also make muffled grinding noises. This is very common if you have tracked your car and heated up the pads. The heat bakes out the binder material and leaves them spongy and making scrubbing sounds. This is not a serious problem as long as they aren't worn out but you can replace the pads if you want. I usually don't bother.

 

[Dude]

surprised no one brought this up but if your car is a couple years old, your pads still have life left, and your brake pedal feels more mushy than before you should try flushing your brake fluid.

 

[Unity Performance]

surprised no one brought this up but if your car is a couple years old, your pads still have life left, and your brake pedal feels more mushy than before you should try flushing your brake fluid.

agreed 100% pretty much after every track day I change the fluid on my Type R even if I am not changing any of the hardware. RBF600 works wonders
You can find it here: https://unity-performance.com/products/motul-rbf-600-dot-4-brake-fluid

 

[FifStreet]

Anybody have brake service done at the dealership know if the dealer has parts on hand or should I call first to make sure?

 

[tacthecat]

Everything is dealer dependent - call the parts department and ask, and, if they have them, ask the to hold for you.

 

[Illiya]

Over 79000 miles on my 2016 1.5L and still on original pads and rotors. My dealer last week measured rear pads at 5mm and fronts at 6mm. They said minimum thickness is 3mm. I recommend buying your OEM parts online to save. Even with shipping costs involved, (And my box of four rotors with pads plus miscellaneous parts was heavy), It really saves from (My) dealer charges. I purchased the parts expecting to have the work done last week in addition to my oil change, but seems I will be waiting longer.

 

[XxTeexX]

anyone have any good places to purchase OEM Honda rotor and pads?

Rotors here are $115 a piece and pads $120 a set. Thanks

fyi on original pads and rotors and at 45k, lots of life left.

 

[Micah]

25k and about 30% left. Probably change them around 30k

46k still on the stock pads, my visual estimate was way off. Was just at the dealer for a squeaking brake sound, turned out to just be a clip which had shifted. They said my brake pads have a long way to go.

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