Non-crossdrilled rotors?

[RacingManiac]

My experience previous with Carbotech is if you use their street pads(1521) you can just swap between their race pads and their street pads. Provided the rotors are bedded in with their pads and both types of pads are bedded.

When you say soft though are you talking about pedal or just stopping power. At a minimum if the pedal is going soft you should upgrade the fluid....

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[Deleted member 21875]

Thanks all for the info. The pedal got soft which I forgot to mention that I was told to definitely switch to the Motul 600 (which I use in a 944 ! Duh should have realized that) but there was definitely break fade also. The fade got to a m day got later I also let up on how hard I was driving/breaking. I’ll chexk out the links thanks @JLOracing and get back with updates. Hoping for another day on the track but season could be close to over in NE OH

 

[Deleted member 21875]

My experience previous with Carbotech is if you use their street pads(1521) you can just swap between their race pads and their street pads. Provided the rotors are bedded in with their pads and both types of pads are bedded.

When you say soft though are you talking about pedal or just stopping power. At a minimum if the pedal is going soft you should upgrade the fluid....

Thanks. In your opinion are the carbotech street lads any better than OEM? I’m not tracking it enough as of now to warrant a full on race pad and I suspect I’d be squealing like I pig DD’ing with race pads

 

[RacingManiac]

1521 are street pads, they are not track pads. They can survive on the rear but will not on the front. The good thing is because they don't require re-bedding the rotor once you have their street/track pad sets, swapping pads with Brembos are extremely easy so you can do it at the track right before you run and take them off before you go...

Faded fluid don't tend to come back especially if they are boiled with bubbles in the line, so if they got soft earlier in the day unless you re-bleed them(which helps but won't solve the issue) you will continue to get long pedal. I flushed my fluid before I tracked on mostly stock setup with ATE Type 200 and they seemed fine all sessions running stock rear pads and Hawk DTC-60 fronts. I'd prefer to have Carbotech but I bought the pads used...

Also @JLOracing thanks for the link on those Centrics! Question on the shim, you just run them between the caliper and the pad backing plates?

 

[ostudent]

EBC USR 2028 or any 2028 number will fit our car for front if u dont want 2 piece

 

[totopo]

Agree with racing maniac. Not even F1 cars are running drilled rotors. I’ve run normal rotors on my track K24a2 DC5 for years - they work fine. No cracks. And tbh, the biggest difference in braking performance for that car has come from tires and higher friction pads

i think for F1 it's a materials thing. Dunno if you can do slots or holes on carbon brakes or if it helps. There's a SAE whitepaper out there that show that slots and holes do help. For same braking produce less heat at the cost of reduced pad life. when it is iron like nascar or supergt they use slots.

 

[RacingManiac]

Slots work, has its use in that it also help mechanically bites into the pads. But not really necessary as a must. Cross drilling was to solve a condition that doesn't exist on modern pad material. Now its mostly a visual thing...

 

[Deleted member 21875]

1521 are street pads, they are not track pads. They can survive on the rear but will not on the front. The good thing is because they don't require re-bedding the rotor once you have their street/track pad sets, swapping pads with Brembos are extremely easy so you can do it at the track right before you run and take them off before you go...

Faded fluid don't tend to come back especially if they are boiled with bubbles in the line, so if they got soft earlier in the day unless you re-bleed them(which helps but won't solve the issue) you will continue to get long pedal. I flushed my fluid before I tracked on mostly stock setup with ATE Type 200 and they seemed fine all sessions running stock rear pads and Hawk DTC-60 fronts. I'd prefer to have Carbotech but I bought the pads used...

Also @JLOracing thanks for the link on those Centrics! Question on the shim, you just run them between the caliper and the pad backing plates?

That assumes you have bedded the pads with a new set of rotors? Correct? With 1900 miles would I still need to new rotors if I decided to get the Carbotech? thanks for your patience with my questions.

 

[RacingManiac]

That assumes you have bedded the pads with a new set of rotors? Correct? With 1900 miles would I still need to new rotors if I decided to get the Carbotech? thanks for your patience with my questions.

When I switched to Carbotech on my old car, I just did the recommended bedding procedure(multiple 60-20 stops, let cool and etc) on the existing rotors. I did first with the street pads then did the same with the XP10s. I think you are supposed to use new rotors but prior to that my rotors never saw any serious use.

FYI also, the people who started Carbotech ended up opening a competitor pad company call G-LOC, from my correspondence with them their pads are basically the same style usage. I might try them next year when my used Hawks are done(I use these on a different set of rotors). 1521 Carbotech is less dusty than the stock VW pads I was using on my older car, not remarkably better or worse performance wise. The important part was they work with the race pads without swapping rotor so that was the selling point...

 

[totopo]

That assumes you have bedded the pads with a new set of rotors? Correct? With 1900 miles would I still need to new rotors if I decided to get the Carbotech? thanks for your patience with my questions.

you can look at your rotors and see if they even have material from your current brake pads. If they are shiny then there is no material transfer and you don't really need to worry.

When you switch from a less aggressive to more aggressive brake compound, you can just drive it normally on the streets for a bit while avoiding heavy braking, and the new brakes should actually just scrape all the old material off. The rotors should get more shiny. Then you can do the normal bedding in procedure.

 

[kalsonc]

wanted to bump this thread

was wondering any more slotted rotor options out?

 

[kalsonc]

contacted Stoptech and Centric - they do not have any plans for a slotted rotor option

 

[rajahdat]

There will be many opinions to what will work, for track days. I hate to say it but skimping on brakes for any track use is gambling on your life. Cross-drilled/Slotted rotors cool with its inherent design. It depends on your budget of course. Me, "Buy once, cry once." Those here finding cracks in rotors yes it will happen but did you not think those are carbon ceramic materials and it's normal to show those cracks? A $10k brake job at that as well. I like the F1 comment, hell ya its easy to slow down a 13in magnesium rim with carbon brakes. Compounds of different brake pads offer different results. Honestly, once you calculate the costs of new rotors and pads just buy the Girodisc and your pad of choice. I am saying Girodisc because the other options are way more expensive than $800. There are many vendors here that can help you choose a brake pad based on what you expect on the end result.

 

[ApexEight]

Advanced Auto Parts lists a WBR Run True Coated Std Rotor, part# N1000669566WBC, for $57.42 ea.

Advanced's website says these don't fit Type Rs?

Does anyone else know of any other blank front Type R rotor options? Maybe one from a different application with Brembos will fit like an STi or Evo? I believe their pads are similar, maybe their rotors are too? ?‍

 

[tinyman392]

Advanced's website says these don't fit Type Rs?

Does anyone else know of any other blank front Type R rotor options? Maybe one from a different application with Brembos will fit like an STi or Evo? I believe their pads are similar, maybe their rotors are too? ?‍

2020 rotors aren’t drilled. They’re expensive though.

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