New HardRace Front Lower Camber Adjusters

alpinefd

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in the middle setting, lowered on swift, i'm at this camber.

IMG_0717.jpg
did you remove the pin from the shock tower and max out the negative camber from the shock tower slot as well?
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19typeRblk

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did you remove the pin from the shock tower and max out the negative camber from the shock tower slot as well?
I went to my shop and had them pull the pins
and they told me factory setting was -1.5 did I want another -1.5 Chamber and your toe is out front and back.
 

19typeRblk

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I had them set it to -2 and correct the toe
That made a big difference! A pic if my alienment is in a few posts back. I thought that -3 would be aggressive for me, plus tire wear
 

.grimace

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Yes I'm going to track with OEM tires, but plan to rotate them every day, then hopefully have enough to get back home. Roebling is not too bad on tires and brakes. Good excuse to get better tires Have you heard of Federal 595rs-RR tires They are from Australia and suppose to be very good for the price.
I have about 4 sets of them now. On a 275/35/18 rs-rr currently
 


.grimace

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They work great for the money
 

davemarco

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Is the rear camber factory adjustable at all? My last alignment had my rear left camber at -2.0 and my rear right camber at -1.5. That seems like a huge difference to me.
 

.grimace

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Is the rear camber factory adjustable at all? My last alignment had my rear left camber at -2.0 and my rear right camber at -1.5. That seems like a huge difference to me.
Nope solid arm. You’ll need an aftermarket adjustable one.
 


.grimace

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Would a factory difference of 0.5 degrees camber between the rear wheels represent a significant flaw?
I don’t know enough about these cars but I have found things odd. Buddies car who also did lowering springs, removed guide pins and hard race lower ball joints ended up at -3 on one side and -3.6 on the other. All things being identical I found it very odd. I have seen cars off .2 or .3 before but .6 seemed like a lot to me. I don’t know enough to give an honest answer though.
 

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Is the rear camber factory adjustable at all? My last alignment had my rear left camber at -2.0 and my rear right camber at -1.5. That seems like a huge difference to me.
A good alignment shop should know they can loosen the rear subfram and shift it slightly to equalize the camber some.
 

davemarco

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Just academically curious: how do these ball joints work? Do they add an adjustment knob for camber?

Apologies in advance for my ignorance.
 

.grimace

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No adjustment knob it has three settings of how you install them.
 

teemohnay

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Ive read this entire thread several times over. Looking for some help here. I have an fk8 with stock wheels/tires and I just bought Eibach SportLines, HardRace adjustable ball joints, SPC rear camber arms and WhiteLine rear toe arms. I will be installing all of this soon using my buddy's lift. My goal is to drop down onto the SportLines but retain oem spec camber/toe so that I dont unevenly chew up tires. This car is mainly a daily (for now) and only sees the track 2-3 times per year. My question is, what adjustable position do I install the HardRace ball joints in in order to retain oem spec camber when dropping down the .9" on the SportLines? Can an alignment shop adjust these HardRace balljoints when I get an alignment done? Or do I have to take the front end apart? Because then I would have to get the car aligned twice. Once before I adjust the balljoints to see how much camber I need. Then take the front end apart to adjust accordingly. And a secong alignment once I put the car back together again. Seems like theres got to be a better way to do this. Hoping someone can give me some advice here. Not sure the best way to go about doing this. I wanted camber plates but couldnt find them anywhere online. But from what Ive read in this thread, these HardRace lower ball joints are actually better than camber plates? Never got a clear answer there... thanks everyone for your help!
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