New HardRace Front Lower Camber Adjusters

[Dave B]

The issue with very high neg camber numbers like 3.5-4 is that braking and acceleration traction will decrease.

I think you will find that the biggest determinant of tire wear is incorrect toe, not camber. Obviously the camber induced wear will depend somewhat on mileage.

Getting back to the issue with adding the HardRace ball joints and changes in scrub radius, the OEM settings are obviously excellent with a 60mm offset wheel yet aftermarket, it is pretty hard to get anything like this offset in an 18" rim. I understand how moving the lower ball joint out will help correct the loss of offset from aftermarket rims in the front suspension angles but does going to the "B" or "C" setting go too far in the opposite direction or am I concerned about a trivial issue?

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[ApexEight]

I wonder how difficult it'd be to swap ball joint positions between street and track driving. It'd be right there while doing a street to track pad swap. Maybe somehow mark the tie rod ends to get toe close to zeroed out with each position, although that would change as the tires wear down.

@Dave B I guess the answer to your question depends on the offset of your 18s. I'd be surprised if the ball joints affect scrub radius enough to make up for the 15-25mm decrease in offset that most 18s result in, but I'm really not sure.

 

[Dave B]

@Dave B I guess the answer to your question depends on the offset of your 18s. I'd be surprised if the ball joints affect scrub radius enough to make up for the 15-25mm decrease in offset that most 18s result in, but I'm really not sure.

One of the things that can help is to go to a smaller diameter tire which would move where the steering axis intersects the tire midline. I don't have the expertise to deal with the calculations myself but if using a 45 mm offset wheel but having a 25" diameter tire vs the 25.8" OEM tire, some of that deviation for the steering axis due to the lower offset wheel will be negated. Just don't know how much.

 

[Dave B]

Coming back to this issue re Hardrace ball joints and camber. How much adjustment is OEM at the top of the strut? I would like to aim for about neg 3 camber but if I went to the plus 2 shim on the aftermarket ball joints, and end up with neg 3.7, would I be able to get back to neg 3, i.e is there that much adjustment at the top of the strut?

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

Coming back to this issue re Hardrace ball joints and camber. How much adjustment is OEM at the top of the strut? I would like to aim for about neg 3 camber but if I went to the plus 2 shim on the aftermarket ball joints, and end up with neg 3.7, would I be able to get back to neg 3, i.e is there that much adjustment at the top of the strut?

you can adjust +/- 3 degree with stock guide pin removed. Hardrace give your oem - 1.3 -(0- 2) degree camber. I'm currently running around -3.2 front and -2.5 rear.

 

[Dave B]

you can adjust +/- 3 degree with stock guide pin removed. Hardrace give your oem - 1.3 -(0- 2) degree camber. I'm currently running around -3.2 front and -2.5 rear.

Wow, moving the full range by moving the top of the strut from full out to full in is 3 degrees? I am surprised the slots are that long.

 

[elmerzasty]

Wow, moving the full range by moving the top of the strut from full out to full in is 3 degrees? I am surprised the slots are that long.

You have to adjust at the lower ball joint to get 0, -1 or -2 on top of OEM. The top slots allow for ca. +- 20 mins adjustment on top of OEM.

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

Wow, moving the full range by moving the top of the strut from full out to full in is 3 degrees? I am surprised the slots are that long.

My bad, I mean 0.3 degree

 

[Ludacrish05]

Need some help with pictures or videos on this install!

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

Need some help with pictures or videos on this install!

Well, this one is perfer to do it at a shop because you will need to take rotor off to get to the bolts unless you got some fancy curve tool to access the bolt between the lower arms. After take the rotor off the rest is pretty much there.

 

[Ludacrish05]

Well, this one is perfer to do it at a shop because you will need to take rotor off to get to the bolts unless you got some fancy curve tool to access the bolt between the lower arms. After take the rotor off the rest is pretty much there.

Awesome man, thanks for showing me that. I’ll have to figure it out once the parts come but this is a good start. Was just trying to figure out how difficult it was

 

[Dave B]

Well, this one is perfer to do it at a shop because you will need to take rotor off to get to the bolts unless you got some fancy curve tool to access the bolt between the lower arms. After take the rotor off the rest is pretty much there.

Great pics. Have a few questions
1) this is the negative 2 camber position correct?
2) was there a lot of force on the OEM ball joint or did it easily separate, i.e. did you have to support the LCA to get it to separate?
3) any issues with getting the LCA back up in to position with the new change position of the ball joint?
4) what size torx socket for the OEM ball joint retaining bolt?
5) any idea of torque specs for the new ball joints and LCA to ball joint connections?

 

[davemarco]

I originally had these installed in the OEM equivalent position. How hard is it to switch to a different position that adds cambe

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

Great pics. Have a few questions
1) this is the negative 2 camber position correct?
2) was there a lot of force on the OEM ball joint or did it easily separate, i.e. did you have to support the LCA to get it to separate?
3) any issues with getting the LCA back up in to position with the new change position of the ball joint?
4) what size torx socket for the OEM ball joint retaining bolt?
5) any idea of torque specs for the new ball joints and LCA to ball joint connections?

1) YES I got a -2 camber position on there.

2 & 3) separation wasn't hard, just remove the lower ball joint retaining clip and use some pry bar to pock it off. However, putting it back is hard. you need to make sure you install it right so that you can wiggle it back in. No need to support the bottom if you take the rotor off ( it is pretty light if no rotor on). If you keep the rotor on and you probably need to lift the rotor to work on it.

4) I believe its like a 14mm socket, but not quite sure by now

5) i go with the general torque chart for bolts, but as long as you tight it with wrench and give a 3 quarter extra turn after tight should be enough.

 

[Eugene_Fk8]

I originally had these installed in the OEM equivalent position. How hard is it to switch to a different position that adds cambe

like i use 3 pry bar to move it back ish hard

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