New Brakes Needed

calonzo

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Every car I've had up to this one, the front brakes piston pushed back in, I've got a tool that does it.
capri-tools-auto-diagnostic-testing-tools-cp21006-64_1000.jpg
I was referring specifically to Honda Civic GenX cars. I don't believe you can use that tool. You need to use the one that turns it in.
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calonzo

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The book shows that the front calipers can be pushed in, and not turned in. But on my 2016 Touring, the front brakes have the same kind of caliper as the rear that has to be turned in.

Also, I did not have to remove the electric brake actuator on the rear calipers. I left them together. (And they still work.)
 

Dario1101

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I changed my front brake pads yesterday (first time doing so! It was fun!) and I used this video as a guide.

I got one of those caliper wind back toolkits from Amazon, and I'll be honest, I still don't really know how to properly use it. I ended up making it work though so I am happy.

I got my brakes from the Rockauto website and used:
POWER STOP Z231878 for the rear (which I haven't changed yet (apparently they wear two or three times slower than the front brakes?))
POWER STOP Z23914 for the front

The front kit came with new rubber boots for the caliper guide pins, which I used 3M silicone paste to lube up, and brake hardware, which I lubed up with some 3M Copper Anti-seize lubricant. It was a great job and if you want me to tell you more I am more than happy to help you, OP! Though I admit in not the most knowledgeable person about brakes, but I know enough for the basic change and touch-up.
 
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Fit2Hatch

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I am glad it worked out for you.
But for others, I would recommend other videos, there are real "Pro" and he is not.
Tool recommendation from his video however, is a good one and reasonable priced.

I found the rear more easy, quicker due to size and weight. The front also has to deal with the two "V" springs where the rear is without.

Due to weight transfer, most front brake component wear faster than rear. Also, brake component is more stout, some economy model has disc up front and drums on rear for the very reason.

I am using EBC Yellow Stuff. Dusty, yet more gentle on rotors, but boy, it is infinitely better than OEM. I prefer silver ant-size over the years - for some reasons, some sensitive electronic can have problem using copper anti-size.

Good luck.
 

Dario1101

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The front also has to deal with the two "V" springs where the rear is without.
I actually didn't use my "V" springs that came with the brake set. I found them too difficult to put on as the brakes would just fall out of their housing before putting on the caliper. I figured that older cars didn't need the "V" spring, I opted not to use it in my change. I hope I'm not harming my brakes from not using it.

Due to weight transfer, most front brake component wear faster than rear.
So it seems. Would it not be cost effective then to replace the rear brakes at this time? My car is almost three years old and has 33,000 miles on it. I changed my brakes because I started hearing a noticable (but slight) metallic noise typical of brake wear when I was driving in reverse out of a parking space.

Dusty, yet more gentle on rotors, but boy, it is infinitely better than OEM.
Speaking of dust, I tried to clean it up off my calipers with some shop towels and brake cleaner, but it didn't seem to do much. What's the best way to clean off that dust? Just spray the heck out of it with some brake cleaner and go heavy on the towels?

Also, I do believe after a brake replacement you should bleed the brake fluid because of pushing back in some fluid/air from winding back the piston in the caliper. Would I just have to do the bleed on the lines that I changed the brakes from, or should I just do the whole car at that point? Sorry for all the questions, but if someone can answer them that would both help out the OP and me as well!
 


jayy_swish

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FOR DIYERS

I bought this and you are able to enter the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode. You can of course do a whole lot more like read and clear codes. Mainly bought it for putting EPB in maintenance mode. Once in maintenance mode you can just push the rear caliper piston in like how front calipers are done. No longer need those annoying twist clockwise to lower the piston and no longer need to worry about destroying your EPB and having to buy a whole new rear caliper which has happen. Also I recommend after putting the rears in maintenance mode to disconnect the EPB wire harness on the caliper as they break easily. Which leads to EPB codes

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Bluetooth-Diagnoses-Functions-Diagnostic/dp/B07Y8K6XZF
 

Fit2Hatch

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I actually didn't use my "V" springs that came with the brake set. I found them too difficult to put on as the brakes would just fall out of their housing before putting on the caliper. I figured that older cars didn't need the "V" spring, I opted not to use it in my change. I hope I'm not harming my brakes from not using it.

"I reinstalled because EBC also has the holes. They put it there for a reason. Not difficult at all, just lower Caliper enough to hold to of the spring on the one closest to the pivot, gently close it, and the one furtherest, pinch spring gently by keeping its base in place while lowering the caliper over the top tip."



So it seems. Would it not be cost effective then to replace the rear brakes at this time? My car is almost three years old and has 33,000 miles on it. I changed my brakes because I started hearing a noticable (but slight) metallic noise typical of brake wear when I was driving in reverse out of a parking space.

"To be ideal, both front and rear pad material are matched, so replace both end at the same time is for picky people like me. More importantly, as long as it is in pair, such as both front or rear at the same time, so braking can be equal, side to side that is."



Speaking of dust, I tried to clean it up off my calipers with some shop towels and brake cleaner, but it didn't seem to do much. What's the best way to clean off that dust? Just spray the heck out of it with some brake cleaner and go heavy on the towels?

"I would not use brake cleaner without precautions. Its effectiveness can remove lube and anti-size you put on. I use iron remover, agitate, then follow with car shampoo on a normal wash. But.....my caliper is treated with ceramic - Kamikaze Stance Rim Coat. So it looks new and easy to maintain."

Also, I do believe after a brake replacement you should bleed the brake fluid because of pushing back in some fluid/air from winding back the piston in the caliper. Would I just have to do the bleed on the lines that I changed the brakes from, or should I just do the whole car at that point? Sorry for all the questions, but if someone can answer them that would both help out the OP and me as well!
"I flush the complete system after pad as well as my clutch line. Easy and brake fluid is cheap."

Good luck.
 

Dario1101

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"I flush the complete system after pad as well as my clutch line. Easy and brake fluid is cheap."

Good luck.
Sure thing. I might as well do it today since I'm not doing anything special lol. Thanks!
 

parshisa

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FOR DIYERS

I bought this and you are able to enter the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode. You can of course do a whole lot more like read and clear codes. Mainly bought it for putting EPB in maintenance mode. Once in maintenance mode you can just push the rear caliper piston in like how front calipers are done. No longer need those annoying twist clockwise to lower the piston and no longer need to worry about destroying your EPB and having to buy a whole new rear caliper which has happen. Also I recommend after putting the rears in maintenance mode to disconnect the EPB wire harness on the caliper as they break easily. Which leads to EPB codes

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Bluetooth-Diagnoses-Functions-Diagnostic/dp/B07Y8K6XZF
is it any different from this tool?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QD4GZW...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
 


 


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