New audio setup with DSP

makanouchi

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Ok, first round of upgrades done 1 year ago with replacement front speakers including center. RF shallow mount 8 in stock enclosure powered by RD 300 watt amp. Sound deadening where possible. I wanted to keep things simple but the mod bug got me again.

Read every single forum post about audio upgrades and sound correction. Here's my solution:

Front: Hertz MPK 165.3
No center speaker
Rear, left stock powered by factory amp
Sub: JL 8w3v3 4ohm, 1 inch ring added to factory enclosure, dynomat inside and outside of factory box, polyfill inside the box. Still working on a grill solution to hide the holes from the factory grill mounts.

On to the interesting bit:
Amp/dsp: audio control D-4.800. 125 x 4 with built in dsp. The unit has 6 channel input, I fed in front doors to front imput, front tweeter to high input, center to rear left input and sub to rear right input. All inputs are summed to give full range plus nav voice. Attached are the input and output curves. Accu bass is added around 25 volume. Sound is Crystal clear with 0 distortion. Time aligned so the sound stage is in the dash...without center speaker.


Hit me up if you have any questions. Thanks for everyone on the forum posting their setups.

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calonzo

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Wow! Thanks for all the details. I like that the AMP/DSP are in one unit.
 

ManfromRI

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Nice!! I have that exact DSP. I'm looking to install it in the spring along with my Focal components in my R. I'm glad it works well with your setup.

Did you have to sum all 3 inputs to get a clean flattened out signal?? Did you have to tweak it alot to get it where it needs to be??
 
OP

makanouchi

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The front speakers have all input channels summed. Take a look at the 4th image showing the output for the front speakers. With the DSP, it's actually really to get a flat output. Play pink noise and run the auto eq process a few times, this gets really close. The sub is summing factory door speakers and factory sub, this give me the full low range. I still need to make some minor adjustments to suit my ears but it sounds great already. Crossover currently set at 80 hertz between sub and kids.


Nice!! I have that exact DSP. I'm looking to install it in the spring along with my Focal components in my R. I'm glad it works well with your setup.

Did you have to sum all 3 inputs to get a clean flattened out signal?? Did you have to tweak it alot to get it where it needs to be??
 

ManfromRI

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The front speakers have all input channels summed. Take a look at the 4th image showing the output for the front speakers. With the DSP, it's actually really to get a flat output. Play pink noise and run the auto eq process a few times, this gets really close. The sub is summing factory door speakers and factory sub, this give me the full low range. I still need to make some minor adjustments to suit my ears but it sounds great already. Crossover currently set at 80 hertz between sub and kids.
Nice. Another question. Which harness did you tap into?? The post amp one??
 
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makanouchi

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Some updates, got my hands on some Hertz Mille MLK Legend 1650.3 components. These speakers are a work of art. Installed, disconnected all rear speakers, set crossover to 70 Hertz. Bass is so good from the components, you almost don't need a sub.

IMG_20200118_190501.jpg


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IMG_20200118_185911.jpg


dashboard 1.png


dashboard 2.png
 
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makanouchi

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ManfromRI

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Correct, wiring diagram found here:
https://www.civicx.com/threads/civic-si-amp-location-and-wiring-diagram.42290/

I initially used the passive crossover but just switched to active yesterday. Need to add back in the sub amp, using the 4 channels for mids and teeeters.

Great! Thanks for the link. I'd be curious to see/hear the difference (if any) by making the switch from passive to active on an RTA.

I mean I know by using the supplied x-over you are giving the exact frequency's that the designer intended them to receive. But as you know, every car is different and I'm sure there is a little wiggle room to fine-tune the speakers to your specific application by running active.
 
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makanouchi

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Got some wire loom from Amazon and cleaned up the power wire in the engine bay. Fuse is screwed to existing wire management bracket. Looks almost factory now.

IMG_20200126_232047.jpg


IMG_20200126_230736.jpg
 

mubassir1840

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Ok, first round of upgrades done 1 year ago with replacement front speakers including center. RF shallow mount 8 in stock enclosure powered by RD 300 watt amp. Sound deadening where possible. I wanted to keep things simple but the mod bug got me again.

Read every single forum post about audio upgrades and sound correction. Here's my solution:

Front: Hertz MPK 165.3
No center speaker
Rear, left stock powered by factory amp
Sub: JL 8w3v3 4ohm, 1 inch ring added to factory enclosure, dynomat inside and outside of factory box, polyfill inside the box. Still working on a grill solution to hide the holes from the factory grill mounts.

On to the interesting bit:
Amp/dsp: audio control D-4.800. 125 x 4 with built in dsp. The unit has 6 channel input, I fed in front doors to front imput, front tweeter to high input, center to rear left input and sub to rear right input. All inputs are summed to give full range plus nav voice. Attached are the input and output curves. Accu bass is added around 25 volume. Sound is Crystal clear with 0 distortion. Time aligned so the sound stage is in the dash...without center speaker.


Hit me up if you have any questions. Thanks for everyone on the forum posting their setups.

IMG_20200115_133044.jpg


IMG_20200115_132957.jpg


IMG_20200115_133115.jpg


IMG_20200115_133130.jpg


IMG_20200115_133204.jpg
Very helpful OP.
This is something off the topic here. I couldn't help but notice the Smartcord from your radar detector mounted on the front dash beside the audio knob displayed in the last pic.
I removed the lower dash and gave those blank spot clips a look, but still unclear on how you were able to achieve it. It really looks sleek, and I wanted to do the same. Could you please share any documents on it on how to achieve that look or point me in the right direction? Thanks.
 
OP

makanouchi

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I don't have a write up or anything.... Pretty much disassemble the smartcord piece and hack the blank plate. I'll take some pictures.
 

mubassir1840

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I don't have a write up or anything.... Pretty much disassemble the smartcord piece and hack the blank plate. I'll take some pictures.
I've disassembled the smartcord but, just need an idea on how you made it happen. I am assuming cutting up with a Dremel on the back of the switch to accommodate the board from the smartcord. But a picture would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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