Need help with interior light issue

[CivicXander]

Hey guys, my interior lights randomly stopped working one day and I've haven't figured out how or where the problem exist. I've gone through multiple fuses. They pop the moment I put it in. I've removed all the bulbs and tried inserting a new fuse, same thing happens. This fuse is for the interior lights(dome, map, trunk light) and I am getting frustrated with constantly blowing those low profile fuses. They're not cheap when you blow 10+ just trying to diagnose the problem.
Anyone have any advice? I am hesitant to take it to dealership because I have an after market android radio, and have ktuner and ethanol sensor installed.

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[SCOPESYS]

Hey guys, my interior lights randomly stopped working one day and I've haven't figured out how or where the problem exist. I've gone through multiple fuses. They pop the moment I put it in. I've removed all the bulbs and tried inserting a new fuse, same thing happens. This fuse is for the interior lights(dome, map, trunk light) and I am getting frustrated with constantly blowing those low profile fuses. They're not cheap when you blow 10+ just trying to diagnose the problem.
Anyone have any advice? I am hesitant to take it to dealership because I have an after market android radio, and have ktuner and ethanol sensor installed.

One way to stop blowing fuses while testing, is to wire a 12v Bulb in series with the fuse.
( like a side light bulb or reverse bulb - use a normal bulb, NOT a led bulb)

If the bulb lights to full brightness, you still have a short, but the short will not blow the fuse, as now what the short is doing is putting the full +12v across your bulb that is in series with the fuse.

series is ----- FUSE ------ BULB ------

Normal

+12v - Fuse - Dome Light - Ground

With Diagnosis bulb

+12v - (Fuse - Diagnostic Bulb) - Dome Light - Ground

If there is a short after the fuse

+12v - (Fuse -Diagnostic Bulb) - SHORT(Ground) -Dome Light - Ground

Diagnostic Bulb goes to FULL Brightness, but fuse does not blow.
(Dome light obviously does not light)

BE CAREFUL not to let any of your test wiring, fuse, diagnostic bulb, touch ground.
(Lost of electrical tape to cover all metal parts !!)

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK -- be careful -- do not want to see you posting a Picture of a burn out Honda !!

 

[latole]

One way to stop blowing fuses while testing, is to wire a 12v Bulb in series with the fuse.
( like a side light bulb or reverse bulb - use a normal bulb, NOT a led bulb)

If the bulb lights to full brightness, you still have a short, but the short will not blow the fuse, as now what the short is doing is putting the full +12v across your bulb that is in series with the fuse.

series is ----- FUSE ------ BULB ------

Normal

+12v - Fuse - Dome Light - Ground

With Diagnosis bulb

+12v - (Fuse - Diagnostic Bulb) - Dome Light - Ground

If there is a short after the fuse

+12v - (Fuse -Diagnostic Bulb) - SHORT(Ground) -Dome Light - Ground

Diagnostic Bulb goes to FULL Brightness, but fuse does not blow.
(Dome light obviously does not light)

BE CAREFUL not to let any of your test wiring, fuse, diagnostic bulb, touch ground.
(Lost of electrical tape to cover all metal parts !!)

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK -- be careful -- do not want to see you posting a Picture of a burn out Honda !!

 

[latole]

Hey guys, my interior lights randomly stopped working one day and I've haven't figured out how or where the problem exist. I've gone through multiple fuses. They pop the moment I put it in. I've removed all the bulbs and tried inserting a new fuse, same thing happens. This fuse is for the interior lights(dome, map, trunk light) and I am getting frustrated with constantly blowing those low profile fuses. They're not cheap when you blow 10+ just trying to diagnose the problem.
Anyone have any advice? I am hesitant to take it to dealership because I have an after market android radio, and have ktuner and ethanol sensor installed.

You have electrical short, why don't you go to the dealer ? it should be on warranty IMO

 

[SCOPESYS]

Nice Drawing ...
I think you will find that the Car's FUSE is straight off the +12v supply, (as soon as practical), so as to protect any further wiring that goes to the Bulb.

If your drawing is meant to represent the (Test fuse with the bulb in series), it would still be better to put the fuse on the battery side, to protect any shorts associated with your test bulb.

 

[latole]

Nice Drawing ...

If your drawing is meant to represent the (Test fuse with the bulb in series), it would still be better to put the fuse on the battery side, to protect any shorts associated with your test bulb.

Doesn't matter wich battery side, it is in series

 

[SCOPESYS]

You have electrical short, why don't you go to the dealer ? it should be on warranty IMO

The OP told you why , and you even QUOTED his "reason why" in your post ..

Anyone have any advice? I am hesitant to take it to dealership because I have an after market android radio, and have ktuner and ethanol sensor installed.

Added to which, if he can fix it himself (and he is probably just as capable of doing so than some "Kid Mechanic" playing about with his car at the dealership) then he does not loose the use of his car, and probably more importantly, does not get his car back from the dealer with any additional damage, (or a Car Cam video of the Mechanic's Girlfriend, taking his car for a test spin to McDonalds).

If the OP can fit an "after Market Android radio", Ktuner and Ethonol Sensor, he should be able to figure out how to find a short -- or if he does not know how, it's a good opportunity to learn. Also, there is really NO RUSH .. the circuit is not that Critical, so he can use the car with the fuse Blown/removed, until he figures out how to fix it himself.

There is increasing controversy about the "Right to Repair".

IMHO, if a consumer wants to repair his own purchased items, he should be able to do so.
Yes, they do it at their own risk, but from what I have experienced with Dealers, there may well be less risk in doing it yourself, than letting the Dealer loose on your car when it is not 100% necessary.

 

[SCOPESYS]

Doesn't matter wich battery side, it is in series

YES it does .... If you cannot understand why, then please do not tell others INCORRECT information.

Putting the fuse on the +ve battery side, PROTECTS everything else AFTER the fuse, from a short to ground, INCLUDING the test bulb and the wiring to it .... so YES, it DOES make a difference.

 

[latole]

The OP told you why , and you even QUOTED his "reason why" in your post ..

OP write;
" I am hesitant to take it to dealership because I have an after market android radio, and have ktuner and ethanol sensor installed."

And the only answer is don't go ?

 

[latole]

YES it does .... If you cannot understand why, then please do not tell others INCORRECT information.

Putting the fuse on the +ve battery side, PROTECTS everything else AFTER the fuse, from a short to ground, INCLUDING the test bulb and the wiring to it .... so YES, it DOES make a difference.

For test circuit it does not matter where is the fuse or the bulb. You don't understand yourself.
Check ohms law.

I use this circuit often.

 

[SCOPESYS]

For test circuit it does not matter where is the fuse or the bulb. You don't understand yourself.
Check ohms law.

I use this circuit often.

I'm not going to continue to debate this with you in the forum.
You are so WRONG, and ohms law has nothing to do with it
It's a matter of protection to INCLUDE the test bulb and it's wiring from a short to ground.

I will leave it to the OP (and other readers) to decide on whether they wants to take my advise or not.

----------------------
I can draw pictures too

GOOD

-----------------------------------

BAD

 

[latole]

Hey guys, my interior lights randomly stopped working one day and I've haven't figured out how or where the problem exist. I've gone through multiple fuses. They pop the moment I put it in. I've removed all the bulbs and tried inserting a new fuse, same thing happens. This fuse is for the interior lights(dome, map, trunk light) and I am getting frustrated with constantly blowing those low profile fuses. They're not cheap when you blow 10+ just trying to diagnose the problem.
Anyone have any advice? I am hesitant to take it to dealership because I have an after market android radio, and have ktuner and ethanol sensor installed.

Best is to check all your wiring / connection ; Android and ethanol sensor.
Lots of chance there is a short on a wiring for these mods.

 

[SCOPESYS]

Best is to check all your wiring / connection ; Android and ethanol sensor.
Lots of chance there is a short on a wiring for these mods.

His fuse is for the interior lights(dome, map, trunk light)
His Android should defiantly not be on that blowing fuse... the radio has it's own fuse.
He also should not have put any power requirements for the Ethonol sensor or tuner on that fuse as well.

1st place I would look would be the Trunk Light, if the light is on the actual moving trunk part. If so, somehow the cable has to go between the car frame & the moving trunk, and will therefore be flexing etc. and could have got damaged.

It is assumed that this fault occurred some time AFTER you installed the radio, tuner & the sensor, and that before the fuse started blowing, that those 3 additions were working ok. ?

 

[latole]

Check the interior lights(dome, map, trunk light) socket and wiring / connector . Any water there ?
I

I could be a short made when he do the mod, not necessary on same wiring than radio or ....

Most of the time and with anything, if you do a mod in electrical circuit and you have issue, now or few times after, check the mods first.

the interior lights(dome, map, trunk light)

 

[fitter_here]

This is the schematic for interior lights, hope this helps.

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