Need help. Hit 100k only did oil changes.

Rickmeister 48

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Holy hell... and I thought was doing a lot of mileage! I just hit 21K miles after only 10 months into owning the car, and I'm already thinking about whats next on my maintenance cycle.

Just find it funny how the guy does 100K miles, neglects his car (outside of oil changes and a couple air filters), and then tells someone to gtfo after being told some common sense. I agree with you on that one Rick.:rofl:
Thanks! And I purposely said I wasn't trying to be a jerk,like you said, it's common sense. He acted like he didn't have time to do this stuff, but when his car breaks down, he's gonna have to make time.
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PNWCIVICSPORTHB

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sounds like most of his miles are hiway miles. 100k miles of hy is not the same as 100k of city stop and go. i would just change all the fluids and life goes on.
 

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That's quite amazing, the things you make up.:confused1: :dunno: Highway driving is harder on oil? I guess this important finding is based on your own unique experience or research.
Will it help my oil life if I stop more often on long trips to let my engine cool down? Or instead of going around cities if I drive through them to pick up some stop and go driving? :rofl:
 

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sounds like most of his miles are hiway miles. 100k miles of hy is not the same as 100k of city stop and go. i would just change all the fluids and life goes on.
Plugs fire the same whether city or hwy. to not change them at 100k miles, is asking for trouble. I’m over 90k miles, and definitely will change them probably between 95-100k mi.
 

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Change the oil one last time,
Trade it or sell it and do it all again,
 


Gruber

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Well, since you crave a dispute and I have too much time on my hands and indeed I'm so smart, I feel obliged to kindly share my genius, but I'm also using some references to other extremely smart geniuses out there. Do you know one source which supports your opinion ?:dunno:

0. This is actually the principle of the MM. Aren't you aware that it will allow you much shorter OCI if you drive in stop and go traffic? You may not pay attention to the MM, but do you think the whole idea is false?

1. Oil gets used not by miles flying by under the wheels, but by the working time (operation hours) and even more precisely the number of times the engine turns. If two cars have 100 kmiles on the odometer, one on the highway, the other in the city, how do you think which one has made more bangs in its cylinders and more revolutions of its crankshaft? How much do you idle in stop and go traffic? Highway is just like stop and go, but with less of the "stop" part, mostly just "go." :)

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/auto-and-light-truck/articles/effects-of-excessive-engine-idling/

2. The average rpm or speed of anything is not necessarily higher in highway driving. Acceleration is when there is the most engine rpm, load (torque), power, and wear. That's when local overheating and a collapse of the lubricating layer may occur. Unless you are driving on a Autobahn at the car's top speed, highway driving is usually 2000-3000 rpm steady under light load and with perfect lubrication.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=139537

"Originally posted by Patman:
Highway driving where you're at the same steady speed for a while is definitely the best condition for an engine and for the oil. With the engine at a steady speed and under low load (on flat roads that is) and the oil up to full temperature, you have virtually no engine wear at all."
"Ditto to everything Patman said. I'll take a car with 200,000 highway miles vs one with 50,000 city miles."
3. Given the same total mileage, continuous daily city driving as a taxi should be much better than city driving in a daily commute mode with two more or less short drives to work and back. That's because besides the number of engine turns, temperature, and load, what deteriorates the oil is the number of heat cycles and simply the time it sits parked with all that humidity in it.
 

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So how screwed am i? I've only done oil changes as far as maintenance goes, and I hit 103k. Haven't flushed anything at all, haven't changed plugs yet. Bought new tires recently so they're fine..

What do I need to do? I know the spark plugs and valves need adjusted, what else should I have done? Is it too late to flush the CVT? Should I just trade this one in and get another one brand new and start over?

Could really use some advice. This is my first brand new car.

It's a 2017 Civic LX Hatchback with 103,000 miles.
You need to RTFM (or the website when you register your car). It tells you what to check and replace at the given intervals.

Since I'm feeling a little helpful today and you haven't done anything except change the oil, you are due for all of this:

Rotate tires: Inspect for wear and adjust pressure
Replace air cleaner element*2
Replace dust and pollen filter*3
Inspect and adjust drive belt
Replace transmission fluid*4
Replace spark plugs
Inspect valve clearance
Replace engine coolant
Replace brake fluid*5
Service front and rear brakes
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
Inspect suspension components
Inspect driveshaft boots
Inspect brake hoses and lines (Including ABS/VSA)
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect fuel lines and connections
Every 24,000 km
Replace air cleaner element if vehicle is regularly driven in dusty conditions.
Every 24,000 km
Replace dust and pollen filter if vehicle is regularly driven in urban areas with high concentrations of emissions from industry and diesel-powered vehicles.
100,000 km
Replace timing belt if vehicle is regularly driven in very low temperatures (under -29°C; -20°F, V6 only).
Every 3 years
Replace brake fluid.

Notes:
*1: Use only Honda genuine 0W20 engine oil. If the message “SERVICE” does not appear more than 12 months after the display is reset, change the engine oil every year
*2: If you drive in dusty conditions, replace the air cleaner element every 24,000km
*3: If you drive primarily in urban areas that have high concentration of soot in the air from industry and from diesel-powered vehicles, replace the dust and pollen filter every 24,000km
*4: Driving in mountainous areas at very low vehicle speeds or trailer towing results in higher transmission temperatures. This requires transmission fluid changes more frequently than recommended by the Maintenance Minder. If you regularly drive your vehicle under these conditions, have the transmission fluid changed every 40,000 km.
*5: If a Maintenance Minder message does not appear more than 36 months after the display for item 7 is reset, change the brake fluid every 3 years.
**Replace the brake fluid every 3 years.
**Inspect idle speed every 256,000 km
**Adjust valves during services A, 0, 9, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy
 
Last edited:

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Trans fluid should be changed every 25k miles to be safe. It's simple and fast from what I was told. Filters should be checked at 10k, especially the cabin or if it starts to smell through your vents. You can choose to follow the minder for the oil if you want but I change my oil early once I see it getting relatively dark and smelling of fuel.
 

Hollywoo0220

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Trans fluid should be changed every 25k miles to be safe. It's simple and fast from what I was told. Filters should be checked at 10k, especially the cabin or if it starts to smell through your vents. You can choose to follow the minder for the oil if you want but I change my oil early once I see it getting relatively dark and smelling of fuel.
Yes.
The sooner a brand of oil gets darker, typically the higher the detergent level it has. That is good though; as the lubrication is absorbing a larger quantity of the carbons that would otherwise create hot spots and soot on the pistons/valves.
 

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You are spot on for plugs. They are due at 100k. Platinum NGK or Denso depending on model.

you skipped 3 filter services. 25k, 50k, 75k. If you really didn’t change the engine and cabin filters, they are insanely gross at this point.

you skipped one 50k CVT service with Honda HCF-2 oil. Somewhere around $130 to change at dealer by me. It’s due at 50k / 100k / 150k / etc

probably don’t need valve adjustment

drain and fill coolant with Honda genuine coolant.


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