My dyno numbers (Dynojet)

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UPDATE:

Aight gentlemen. First off, I'd like to say that my skepticism came from purely assuming that ALL TypeRs where underrated stock. That is NOT the case. Whoever got factory freaks, good for you. Conventional physics however, is always going to apply first before making assumptions. That's the mistake I made and I stand corrected on all of my skepticism.

My car in stock ECU flash made 262whp/273wtq. That is roughly a 12% drivetrain loss at the wheels which is expected for a FWD car. The numbers from BHP to WHP match perfectly.

The tuner went on ahead and tuned the car from the base map and gained an eye watering 53whp/61wtq increase for a final tune of 315whp/334wtq. NO MODS are on the car. Temps: 99F - so it was HOT!

The motor clearly has some impressive components in it and I'm quite satisfied leaving it as-is for the lifetime of the car.

Honda Civic 10th gen My dyno numbers (Dynojet) IMG_20200710_142936_01


NOTE: The curve hiccups at the upper RPM range was due to the ECU modulating the boost for some reason. He had to turn up the boost at the upper RPMS to try to flatten it down. He didn't want to make it perfect because of risk, so I told him to stop the tuning.
 
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fiend busa

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UPDATE:

Aight gentlemen. First off, I'd like to say that my skepticism came from purely assuming that ALL TypeRs where underrated stock. That is NOT the case. Whoever got factory freaks, good for you. Conventional physics however, is always going to apply first before making assumptions. That's the mistake I made and I stand corrected on all of my skepticism.

My car in stock ECU flash made 262whp/273wtq. That is roughly a 12% drivetrain loss at the wheels which is expected for a FWD car. The numbers from BHP to WHP match perfectly.

The tuner went on ahead and tuned the car from the base map and gained an eye watering 53whp/61wtq increase for a final tune of 315whp/334wtq. NO MODS are on the car. Temps: 99F - so it was HOT!

The motor clearly has some impressive components in it and I'm quite satisfied leaving it as-is for the lifetime of the car.

IMG_20200710_142936_01.jpg


NOTE: The curve hiccups at the upper RPM range was due to the ECU modulating the boost for some reason. He had to turn up the boost at the upper RPMS to try to flatten it down. He didn't want to make it perfect because of risk, so I told him to stop the tuning.
I think you have to put the car in some special maintenance mode before putting in on a dyno, I think not sure 100% sure but I remember seeing members stating to put the car in some state before putting it on a dyno.
 

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UPDATE:

Aight gentlemen. First off, I'd like to say that my skepticism came from purely assuming that ALL TypeRs where underrated stock. That is NOT the case. Whoever got factory freaks, good for you. Conventional physics however, is always going to apply first before making assumptions. That's the mistake I made and I stand corrected on all of my skepticism.

My car in stock ECU flash made 262whp/273wtq. That is roughly a 12% drivetrain loss at the wheels which is expected for a FWD car. The numbers from BHP to WHP match perfectly.

The tuner went on ahead and tuned the car from the base map and gained an eye watering 53whp/61wtq increase for a final tune of 315whp/334wtq. NO MODS are on the car. Temps: 99F - so it was HOT!

The motor clearly has some impressive components in it and I'm quite satisfied leaving it as-is for the lifetime of the car.

IMG_20200710_142936_01.jpg


NOTE: The curve hiccups at the upper RPM range was due to the ECU modulating the boost for some reason. He had to turn up the boost at the upper RPMS to try to flatten it down. He didn't want to make it perfect because of risk, so I told him to stop the tuning.
Your boost hiccups are most likely due to intake temps. The car is known to pull power if the intake temps get too high. The car has been known to pull power by as much as 5-10% when the intercooler gets heat soaked (Perrin did a measurement; I think PRL did as well, but I can't seem to find the PRL test). I think someone had made a thread asking if they made a mistake getting tuned in the summer due to the high temps (they hit 260 WHP and others chimed in saying they got the same due to heat). Other threads have suggested spraying the intercooler between runs to cool it off (which actually is a great idea when it's very hot out).

That being said, you have 6 plots up there, 3 of them are extremely tight showing about 300 WHP, while the other three are kind of all over the place. What order were the pulls done in? Just out of curiosity what gear were the pulls done in?
 
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boosted180sx

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like I've posted don't get too hung up on the numbers.
some dynos read low and some read unbelievably high like church automotive dynos. Its the delta that matters. It being 100 degrees definitely didn't help with the numbers either lol.

for example, you gained 53 whp which is 20% more from your baseline. That would be same as someone going from 300 to 360 on church automotive dynos.

i believe evasive pumped out around 260whp on their dynos also.
 
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Your boost hiccups are most likely due to intake temps. The car is known to pull power if the intake temps get too high. The car has been known to pull power by as much as 5-10% when the intercooler gets heat soaked (Perrin did a measurement; I think PRL did as well, but I can't seem to find the PRL test). I think someone had made a thread asking if they made a mistake getting tuned in the summer due to the high temps (they hit 260 WHP and others chimed in saying they got the same due to heat). Other threads have suggested spraying the intercooler between runs to cool it off (which actually is a great idea when it's very hot out).
Yea, my tuner tried to cool off the car in-between 2 runs. It heat-soaks bad.

That being said, you have 6 plots up there, 3 of them are extremely tight showing about 300 WHP, while the other three are kind of all over the place. What order were the pulls done in? Just out of curiosity what gear were the pulls done in?
The order of the dynos were from lowest to greatest. All pulls done in 4th as expected.
 
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I think you have to put the car in some special maintenance mode before putting in on a dyno, I think not sure 100% sure but I remember seeing members stating to put the car in some state before putting it on a dyno.
Yea, my tuner is a honda shop. They tune these cars and other hondas all the time. He got it out of that traction control mode before tuning as usual.
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