Motor Trend Long Term Update 3

Dragnet

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Honestly, IMO the factory amp is fine if supplemented with a mono amp for the subwoofer. It doesn't have enough power to provide truly deep bass, but it's got plenty for the rest of the speakers. The stock speakers suck though, cheap paper cones that can be easily and cheaply swapped out for something better. I have replaced the center dash speaker, front door speakers and subwoofer, and added an amp for the subwoofer. The system still looks stock, but audio quality is massively improved and plenty good enough for me.
What could someone expect to pay for a similar setup? I thought about taking mine it to some sound folks to have something installed. I'd sure enough jack it up if I tried to do it myself.
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Honestly, IMO the factory amp is fine if supplemented with a mono amp for the subwoofer. It doesn't have enough power to provide truly deep bass, but it's got plenty for the rest of the speakers. The stock speakers suck though, cheap paper cones that can be easily and cheaply swapped out for something better. I have replaced the center dash speaker, front door speakers and subwoofer, and added an amp for the subwoofer. The system still looks stock, but audio quality is massively improved and plenty good enough for me.
Does the center speaker carry anything but audio for navigation/waze, etc?

What door components did you swap to?
 

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What could someone expect to pay for a similar setup? I thought about taking mine it to some sound folks to have something installed. I'd sure enough jack it up if I tried to do it myself.
Does the center speaker carry anything but audio for navigation/waze, etc?
What door components did you swap to?
I did the install myself, following @ctrmofo's DIY thread on this forum. The speaker swaps are super easy. Installing the extra amp for the subwoofer was time consuming, because I had never attempted anything like it before and took it slow, but it came out great and everything works. I have spent roughly $800 on parts (JL Audio C2-350x center dash speaker, Hertz Dieci Dt24 front door tweeters, JL Audio C2-650x front door coax speakers, AlpineType R SWR8D4 subwoofer, Rockford Fosgate T500X1br mono amp and Audio Control LC2i line output converter, plus a wiring kit for the amp and assorted random bits). I bought the RF amp on eBay to save some cash, most of the rest was Amazon.

I also purchased the Palindrome Labs deeper subwoofer grill kit to make room for the Alpine sub, but if you don't want to go that route there's a Pioneer sub (TS-SW2002D2) that's low profile and fits in the stock enclosure. I bought that one first before deciding to go bigger with the Alpine and the grill kit. It's lightly used and I'd be happy to sell it cheap if anybody wants it.

If you want to test your DIY capabilities, start with the center dash speaker, it's a direct swap and couldn't be easier. That speaker definitely carries audio when you play music, in addition to the audio for the nav system.

If you paid someone to do the amp install, it's probably at least 3-4 hours labor for a shop, plus parts. But believe me, if I can do it, you can too.
 
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Noize

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I did the install myself, following @ctrmofo's DIY thread on this forum. The speaker swaps are super easy. Installing the extra amp for the subwoofer was time consuming, because I had never attempted anything like it before and took it slow, but it came out great and everything works. I have spent roughly $800 on parts (JL Audio C2-350x center dash speaker, Hertz Dieci Dt24 front door tweeters, JL Audio C2-650x front door coax speakers, AlpineType R SWR8D4 subwoofer, Rockford Fosgate T500X1br mono amp and Audio Control LC2i line output converter, plus a wiring kit for the amp and assorted random bits). I bought the RF amp on eBay to save some cash, most of the rest was Amazon.

I also purchased the Palindrome Labs deeper subwoofer grill kit to make room for the Alpine sub, but if you don't want to go that route there's a Pioneer sub (TS-SW2002D2) that's low profile and fits in the stock enclosure. I bought that one first before deciding to go bigger with the Alpine and the grill kit. It's lightly used and I'd be happy to sell it cheap if anybody wants it.

If you want to test your DIY capabilities, start with the center dash speaker, it's a direct swap and couldn't be easier. That speaker definitely carries audio when you play music, in addition to the audio for the nav system.

If you paid someone to do the amp install, it's probably at least 3-4 hours labor for a shop, plus parts. But believe me, if I can do it, you can too.
So the Alpine sub won’t fit without modification in the form of a part ctrmofo isn’t offering any longer? That’s a bummer.

Thanks for the info.
 

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So the Alpine sub won’t fit without modification in the form of a part ctrmofo isn’t offering any longer? That’s a bummer.

Thanks for the info.
That is presently correct, but he may end up making more kits. I know he's considering it at the moment. You should PM him if you're interested.
 


ctrmofo

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https://www.motortrend.com/cars/honda/civic/2018/2018-honda-civic-type-r-long-term-update-3-review/

They're only getting 20 mpg? They're either hooning the shit out of that car, getting stuck in traffic all the time or something's wrong. It's easy to pull down high twenties and thirties with mostly highway cruising.

They hate the infotainment. Otherwise, they love it, even for a 3 day road trip. Of course.
19-20 mpg avg here in summer on 245/35/19 RE71R with higher rolling resistance. Now on 245/40/18 X-Ice winter tires that have less rolling resistance so seeing 23-24 mpg.
 

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I don't understand the criticism of the headunit . . . if you use Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, it's all the same no matter which vehicle you own -- I never felt that CTR's headunit is slow when using CarPlay or Android Auto. What am I missing? Is anyone listening to terrestrial or satellite radio in 2019?
 

ctrmofo

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I don't understand the criticism of the headunit . . . if you use Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, it's all the same no matter which vehicle you own -- I never felt that CTR's headunit is slow when using CarPlay or Android Auto. What am I missing? Is anyone listening to terrestrial or satellite radio in 2019?
LoL me neither. Stock HU is perfectly fine and plenty good if you upgrade speakers and sub and using CarPlay/Spotify.

I get in car: Hondata app auto starts; iPhone XS Max docked and CarPlay/Spotify auto starts; and open Escort Live radar detector app....drive off. Auto magic and so damn good!

I focus on driving with music in my ears and volume controlled by my right foot...wtf else you need, right??? LoL
 

ctrmofo

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Center speaker is for 3 things: voice controls, Navi, and center music channel.

$50 total to upgrade if using JL C2-350x paired with someone to split the cost since speakers are sold as pairs and you’ll open ears to new world of sound staging.

For all those who complain about HU, you’re better off spending at least $5K and build total custom sound system to impress the competition judges - or follow my full guilde and spend less than $1500 while keeping everything integrated in HU and full controls as stock...yes have amazing sound improvements.

Follow the full thread of CTR speakers and sub upgrades for all info and tips by many of us involved and lessons learned.

Nope, you cannot install better subs with bigger magnets without the Palindrome Labs grill kit which comes with proper spacer to make such sub fit. Will decide if I’ll make more and offer them in a few weeks...
 

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Can you post what brand and size speakers you replaced the center dash and front door speakers with? Were they easily plug and play? I may upgrade mine as well if they're easy to replace.

Honestly, IMO the factory amp is fine if supplemented with a mono amp for the subwoofer. It doesn't have enough power to provide truly deep bass, but it's got plenty for the rest of the speakers. The stock speakers suck though, cheap paper cones that can be easily and cheaply swapped out for something better. I have replaced the center dash speaker, front door speakers and subwoofer, and added an amp for the subwoofer. The system still looks stock, but audio quality is massively improved and plenty good enough for me.
 


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Sorry to be a broken record, but for those who claim they get high twenties/low 30s in mpg: You might get that at 65 mph in perfect conditions, but if you're reading the car's mpg estimate, it's wrong. I've posted before that it's off by about 6%, but it seems more like 8%. Over five tanks I got 25.9 mpg, but the dash says 28.2 mpg. Don't trust your dash. This is with mostly highway and being pretty conservative with throttle. With city driving it's easy to get very low 20s (again real mpg, not indicated).

real mpg / indicated, each line is a different tank.
26.2718447 28.4
25.8118812 28.2
24.7745098 27
26.27 28.6
26.3030303 28.7

average
25.8862532 28.18

That being said, the STI and focus RS get worse (real) mpg and the Golf R is also a tad less on average (according to fuelly).
 

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Oh Fuelly, this is the 2018 Type R on there:
Honda Civic 10th gen Motor Trend Long Term Update 3 upload_2019-1-11_18-27-17


And the 2017s:
Honda Civic 10th gen Motor Trend Long Term Update 3 upload_2019-1-11_18-29-10


I'd actually venture to say Fuelly might trend higher just because people who might use it care more about getting better MPG...but low-mid 20s is pretty realistic for this car for actual use. I am right dead smack at 25:

Honda Civic 10th gen Motor Trend Long Term Update 3 upload_2019-1-11_18-31-11


I think the 37.5 has to be an error somehow either the pump clicked too early or something...The funny thing was that was right before I get on track for a track day last year and the graph is pretty funny:
Honda Civic 10th gen Motor Trend Long Term Update 3 upload_2019-1-11_18-32-58
 
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Sorry to be a broken record, but for those who claim they get high twenties/low 30s in mpg: You might get that at 65 mph in perfect conditions, but if you're reading the car's mpg estimate, it's wrong. I've posted before that it's off by about 6%, but it seems more like 8%. Over five tanks I got 25.9 mpg, but the dash says 28.2 mpg. Don't trust your dash. This is with mostly highway and being pretty conservative with throttle. With city driving it's easy to get very low 20s (again real mpg, not indicated).

real mpg / indicated, each line is a different tank.
26.2718447 28.4
25.8118812 28.2
24.7745098 27
26.27 28.6
26.3030303 28.7

average
25.8862532 28.18

That being said, the STI and focus RS get worse (real) mpg and the Golf R is also a tad less on average (according to fuelly).
How are you getting miles traveled? Have you calibrated your odometer?

I'm getting low 30's mpg average calculated (my computer will read as high as 40 mpg average for my commute and low-mid thirties for interstate trips but I am running smaller wheels with a ~2% speedo error and all season Contis), but I don't experience much stop and go traffic and my commute has only a couple of intersections.

Of course I notice my mileage drops off precipitously with a lot of accelerating from a stop and/or when I stay in the boost. The car gets thirsty with 20 psi running through it.
 

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