Money Shifted my new Si today :(

Jakxc28

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Well once about 10,000 miles ago I actually accidentally shifted from 5th to 2nd going about 70 to pass. I immediately clutched in, but I believe I saw the tach hit about 7500 (1000 rpm over redline). I pulled over and checked for leaks or anything, but the idle was fine and it seemed okay. I have no idea how much damage occurred, and I'm really not sure what to do. i was thinking of doing a compression test, but my mechanic pretty much brushed it off and said I didn't need to because I was able to drive away with no issues. I thought that was a load of crap and probably should've tested anyway but I somewhat forgot since then. I just ordered Ktuner so what are the chances that causes an actual problem due to some damage that's already there? Any advice?
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RehabJP

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Well once about 10,000 miles ago I actually accidentally shifted from 5th to 2nd going about 70 to pass. I immediately clutched in, but I believe I saw the tach hit about 7500 (1000 rpm over redline). I pulled over and checked for leaks or anything, but the idle was fine and it seemed okay. I have no idea how much damage occurred, and I'm really not sure what to do. i was thinking of doing a compression test, but my mechanic pretty much brushed it off and said I didn't need to because I was able to drive away with no issues. I thought that was a load of crap and probably should've tested anyway but I somewhat forgot since then. I just ordered Ktuner so what are the chances that causes an actual problem due to some damage that's already there? Any advice?
Have the compression checked if you think you may have hurt it. A mechanic might charge you $100 bucks to check all the cylinders or you can go to Harbor Freight and tool and buy a compression tester for $30 bucks and do it yourself it pretty easy. If you can take out the spark plugs and pull the fuse for the fuel pump you can compression test it. I am a mechanic by trade thought this is my first personal manual I have daily driven in a while so still getting used to it. I posted my story as an anecdotal type story but I was 90% sure I didn't hurt anything. Like I mentioned if the redline is 6500 in reality you could probably hit 10000 RPM at least for a short time before you totally blew out the engine. A true money shift you will know it because your car will not be driving anymore ore it will me making very horrible sounds and it would be obvious something is wrong. I checked my compression and it was totally normal and I surpassed redline for a brief moment so chances are your good.
 

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I money shift in my CVT, going from Drive to 'L'. RPMs instantly redline. No lights or anything. I just keep flooring it and it stays at redline. :drive:

Don't mind me. Just having some fun here....
 

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Mentions "money shifting" and warranty in the same sentence lol... Good luck with trying to stick honda with your mistake.
 
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Mentions "money shifting" and warranty in the same sentence lol... Good luck with trying to stick honda with your mistake.
It would depend on the dealership and the circumstances but maybe... I have seen it happen where they have repaired an engine that got damaged due to driver negligence. Your right never guaranteed though so shift carefully.
 


Seth_FC3

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In retro spec, I think all if not most of us have done it at least once in our lives lol. I shifted once from 3rd to 2nd, I saw it hit about 7500, and shot it into neutral before it kept reving out. My car revs to 7k so it wasn't a huge deal but I've learned to not do it again lol
 

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I feel like as a new Si owner coming from an automatic, getting over the fear of accidently getting it in reverse made me much more aware of shifter position. That said I am still doing noob things a month in. I was at a red light in Long Beach on my way to work and I was trying to grab my coffee real quick and the light turned green. In a panic I put the coffee down and came off the clutch too high and stalled...guy behind me honked. I threw up my hands. I was prepared to exist vehicle and fight as he pulled up next to me. It was my boss. :flame:
Just say "NO" to drinking and driving! :bat:
 

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I money shift in my CVT, going from Drive to 'L'. RPMs instantly redline. No lights or anything. I just keep flooring it and it stays at redline. :drive:

Don't mind me. Just having some fun here....
When I had my CVT I managed to yank the lever into N when cruising somehow and managed to rev the engine to the moon(or the rev limiter). The next few days I was paranoid I broke something.
 

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When I had my CVT I managed to yank the lever into N when cruising somehow and managed to rev the engine to the moon(or the rev limiter). The next few days I was paranoid I broke something.
Haha, it’s impossible to money shift a CVT.
 

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I think you grabbed 3rd instead of 5th, not ideal at 70, but not fatal. take your time shifting, don't be cute, and let it break in some more before you wind it out. Hope you are not hitting your brakes too hard either, they need to set the first few hundred miles. A little bit of care will reward you with years of trouble free performance. BTW at 70 you should have already been in 5th, downshifting to 4th to pass. Save 6th gear for when you are cruising on a long highway drive at over 75.
 


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Haha, it’s impossible to money shift a CVT.
Tell that to my wife! She has twice pushed the lever from D to R while reaching across my lap with the car moving forward at parking lot speeds. I applied full braking instantly both times and there was a jerking, but no bad sound or noticeable effect to the CVT. She's almost done it to me on the highway a few times, not sure if it locks out or if I successfully stopped her in time.
 

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Tell that to my wife! She has twice pushed the lever from D to R while reaching across my lap with the car moving forward at parking lot speeds. I applied full braking instantly both times and there was a jerking, but no bad sound or noticeable effect to the CVT. She's almost done it to me on the highway a few times, not sure if it locks out or if I successfully stopped her in time.
Haha! I would hope either it would software prevent, or it should physically prevent the shifter from being pushed between drive gears and reverse. If not, that’s a big oversight on honda’s part!
 
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RehabJP

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Haha! I would hope either it would software prevent, or it should physically prevent the shifter from being pushed between drive gears and reverse. If not, that’s a big oversight on honda’s part!
Its a Solenoid in the Transaxle that locks out the gear above like 20 mph but yea the gear is mechanically locked out you could not even put the shifter into reverse on a modern Honda manual. I actually knew someone who accidentally shifted an older car into reverse at highway speeds and lets just say its not nice and the transmission was pretty much toast. Its a real fast way to stop though from what I understand. I was to in the car but apparently all the wheels just locked up like you stomped on the brakes as hard as you can X10 but with sounds of grinding metal and an engine screaming for help
 

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Thought I would share. This channel is one of my faves and here is the money-shift test! 90km/hour to 1st gear.



Lots of great automotive tests (and they rebuilt a tank)

(edit: won't let me embed youtube vid, sorry!)
(edit-edit: looks like it embedded)
Oh my, this guy's my freaking doppelganger. Looks just like me. Has a little bit more hair, but doesn't talk like me though.
 

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Sorry for the wrong terminology was typing that late. Yes I "Downshifted' into 3rd from 6th while trying to hit 5th. Luckily it was not a true money shift whether I blipped the throttle in Natural and redlined it or it actually engaged 3rd at Highway speeds. I pulled all the plugs today and did a compression test on all 4 Cyl are at 150 PSI so I didn't blow a piston or ring or valve.
Although the owner's manual regards the first 1500 miles as a break in period, it is a long slope. The original engine oil is designed to reduce heat and allow proper break in, reducing potential for glazing. The cylinder walls were plateau-honed and the engine had good oil and was warmed-up but you are way shy of being done with break-in ESPECIALLY when it comes to the gearbox. Full gearbox/clutch and engine is not broken in until North of 7500 miles. Before you have reached 1000 miles, you should not exceed 4k RPM and starts should be with light throttle. The synchros need time to break in and everything is just way too new right now.

I have money-shifted I think 3 times and misshifted like over 5 times. Unless you are on a mission to destroy your powertrain and get new units, I would recommend major changes. 60k may seem like a long time away and maybe it is based on how much you drive but for me it happened quick. I am at 77k now. I know I still have compression. I recommend better oil than 0w-20. Also, gear oil should not be this super-lite Honda crap. Put a little heavier and protective stuff in there designed for syncros. You can do that now. The gates will feel more distinct and you will be far less likely to cause full grinds like in your 1-2 shift. Give it time and give your shifts time. These cars require manual rev-matching. It takes like a year at least before you kind of memorize the multiplication tables, and blip the throttle or wait properly however many milliseconds it takes. People will tell you that tuning will reduce rev hang but I am not tuned, so I can't tell you how much it can or will.
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