MOH POWAH

[NicKoLi]

Hey guys, I am currently sitting full bolt on and rv6 is about to come out with a drop in turbo thats supposed to be a bit faster than the W1. I am Full bolt on. Intake/Exhaust/DP/FMIC and I am planning on this turbo upgrade. What im scared of is all these 10th gens blowing up. Now I know if you beat your car you could make a stock civic blow up. What I am looking for is some help as far as how should I do it. I was going to have a really legit shop near me tune it as conservatively while making the most power it can. I heard something about not pushing it too hard around 4500k Basically is there anything I should definitely know or keep in mind? Can I run TSP stage 1 with the new drop in until I can afford a tune? Just need some advice here guys I plan on stopping here with a just a more fun version of my civic. If I can beat a stock type r that would be a plus.

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[Vtec_Nah]

Just add some E and get a custom tune and you’ll be beating Type r’s. I can speak from experience.

 

[KingOfBrussels]

Changing out your turbo and running an off-the-shelf tune for the stock turbo is a great recipe for blowing up your motor.

When you do the turbo upgrade you should add a Forge bypass valve to hold the higher boost levels over stock, and a tune.

https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Rec...ault_Volvo_Hyundai_and_Kia--product--787.html

https://edgeautosport.com/forge-motorsport-bypass-valve-honda-civic-1-5t-all-models/

 

[NicKoLi]

Changing out your turbo and running an off-the-shelf tune for the stock turbo is a great recipe for blowing up your motor.

When you do the turbo upgrade you should add a Forge bypass valve to hold the higher boost levels over stock, and a tune.

https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Rec...ault_Volvo_Hyundai_and_Kia--product--787.html

https://edgeautosport.com/forge-motorsport-bypass-valve-honda-civic-1-5t-all-models/

This is the first time I have even heard of this? Is this necessary with a conservative tune ?

 

[KingOfBrussels]

This is the first time I have even heard of this? Is this necessary with a conservative tune ?

The bypass valve lets off excess boost pressure when you close the throttle. It's an escape valve that dumps pressurized air from the part of the intake tract between the turbo and throttle and recirculates it back to the intake between the MAF and the turbo (i.e. the lower pressure part before it's pressurized by the turbo).

It's supposed to stay closed and only let out boost when the pressure between the turbo and throttle exceed the boost target, but stock bypass valves tend to sometimes open more than you want and bleed off boost. Depending on the car sometimes even at stock boost levels.

I'm not sure how durable the stock bypass valve on the Si is, but it's a relatively cheap upgrade / insurance policy to make sure your car is performing consistently as you crank the boost up. It might not be necessary on a basic off-the-shelf tune, but it couldn't hurt. On an upgraded turbo running much higher boost I would definitely upgrade.

 

[Mcclaughry95]

Any evidence the bypass valve can't take the air flow? Pressure shouldn't be an issue since a larger turbo would move the same air at a lower pressure. Unless you're tuning to make some insane numbers and not be conservative you won't go higher then stock pressures. So only concern is the volume of air the bypass can take, not pressure.

 

[disgraced.fk8]

The bypass valve lets off excess boost pressure when you close the throttle. It's an escape valve that dumps pressurized air from the part of the intake tract between the turbo and throttle and recirculates it back to the intake between the MAF and the turbo (i.e. the lower pressure part before it's pressurized by the turbo).

It's supposed to stay closed and only let out boost when the pressure between the turbo and throttle exceed the boost target, but stock bypass valves tend to sometimes open more than you want and bleed off boost. Depending on the car sometimes even at stock boost levels.

I'm not sure how durable the stock bypass valve on the Si is, but it's a relatively cheap upgrade / insurance policy to make sure your car is performing consistently as you crank the boost up. It might not be necessary on a basic off-the-shelf tune, but it couldn't hurt. On an upgraded turbo running much higher boost I would definitely upgrade.

Sorry for jumping in but I have an issue with my boost. Under medium load sometimes I get this weird "ft ft ft ft ft ft" sound coming from the intake that I'm 99.9% sure is turbo related. The thing is, when this happens, if I hold the pedal it stays, but if I floor it the noise goes back to the normal turbo noise.

Would this bypass valve you linked possibly help out with this issue? I'm running the 21psi Ktuner Stage 2 map but I will be getting phearable now that they released non-si and map 3 boost is 24psi so I imagine I will still see this issue if not worse.

 

[KingOfBrussels]

Any evidence the bypass valve can't take the air flow? Pressure shouldn't be an issue since a larger turbo would move the same air at a lower pressure. Unless you're tuning to make some insane numbers and not be conservative you won't go higher then stock pressures. So only concern is the volume of air the bypass can take, not pressure.

I'm new to the Si. I don't know for certain that its bypass valve is a weak point, but stock bypass/diverter valves are a common weak point on many turbo cars. These things are *supposed* to behave like on/off switches and only open when absolutely necessary. But the stock parts are sometimes prone to opening more frequently than needed. Especially at higher boost levels and/or airflow. All of which leads to less crisp throttle response because the bypass valve is bleeding off boost when it doesn't need to.

My last car was a BMW 335 FBO + tune. The stock diverter valve was a known weak point even at stock boost levels. I could definitely tell from driving it where it was leaking boost in certain situations. I had to chase down multiple boost leaks in that car, but it didn't start actually throwing boost leak codes until I replaced the likely-leaking stock diverter valve with a GFB DV+. Once the diverter was no longer the source of the leak the ECU could more clearly see that boost was leaking somewhere else.

Here's one youtube video I found mostly about atmospheric BOVs which I personally *do not* recommend doing but it includes them testing the stock bypass valve on a dyno and it seeming fine for this Si which has some kind of flash tune (I forget off the top which one).



Anyway, without more experience with the Si, I can't say for sure that the stock bypass valve is equally bad as the BMW one, but given that these are often problems, it's not a bad idea to upgrade it when cranking up the boost and/or upgrading the turbo. The Forge upgraded recirc bypass valve for the Si is less than $150 and easy to install. It won't hurt anything and could lead to more consistent boost. If nothing else it's a good insurance policy for reliable performance.

Sorry for jumping in but I have an issue with my boost. Under medium load sometimes I get this weird "ft ft ft ft ft ft" sound coming from the intake that I'm 99.9% sure is turbo related. The thing is, when this happens, if I hold the pedal it stays, but if I floor it the noise goes back to the normal turbo noise.

Would this bypass valve you linked possibly help out with this issue? I'm running the 21psi Ktuner Stage 2 map but I will be getting phearable now that they released non-si and map 3 boost is 24psi so I imagine I will still see this issue if not worse.

What you're describing kinda sounds like turbo flutter. But running higher boost over stock also causes the bypass valve to work harder in general where you're more likely to hear it. Especially if you have an intake. It's possible that you could need an upgraded bypass valve but hard to say since it's not a problem I've experienced on an Si, just on a BMW.

 

[Mcclaughry95]

I'm new to the Si. I don't know for certain that its bypass valve is a weak point, but stock bypass/diverter valves are a common weak point on many turbo cars. These things are *supposed* to behave like on/off switches and only open when absolutely necessary. But the stock parts are sometimes prone to opening more frequently than needed. Especially at higher boost levels and/or airflow. All of which leads to less crisp throttle response because the bypass valve is bleeding off boost when it doesn't need to.

My last car was a BMW 335 FBO + tune. The stock diverter valve was a known weak point even at stock boost levels. I could definitely tell from driving it where it was leaking boost in certain situations. I had to chase down multiple boost leaks in that car, but it didn't start actually throwing boost leak codes until I replaced the likely-leaking stock diverter valve with a GFB DV+. Once the diverter was no longer the source of the leak the ECU could more clearly see that boost was leaking somewhere else.

Here's one youtube video I found mostly about atmospheric BOVs which I personally *do not* recommend doing but it includes them testing the stock bypass valve on a dyno and it seeming fine for this Si which has some kind of flash tune (I forget off the top which one).



Anyway, without more experience with the Si, I can't say for sure that the stock bypass valve is equally bad as the BMW one, but given that these are often problems, it's not a bad idea to upgrade it when cranking up the boost and/or upgrading the turbo. The Forge upgraded recirc bypass valve for the Si is less than $150 and easy to install. It won't hurt anything and could lead to more consistent boost. If nothing else it's a good insurance policy for reliable performance.


What you're describing kinda sounds like turbo flutter. But running higher boost over stock also causes the bypass valve to work harder in general where you're more likely to hear it. Especially if you have an intake. It's possible that you could need an upgraded bypass valve but hard to say since it's not a problem I've experienced on an Si, just on a BMW.

I'll put it this way you'll blow the motor before the blow off cant handle the pressures. Stock is actually recommended due to spring rate differences causing issues.

 

[Mcclaughry95]

And these cars flutter alot. And it doesn't sound like the flutter you get when issues starting showing.

 

[KingOfBrussels]

It could well be that Honda is one of the few companies with a stock bypass valve that's actually decent then. My experience with that basketcase of a BMW may not be relevant here.

 

[Two Step Performance]

Hey guys, I am currently sitting full bolt on and rv6 is about to come out with a drop in turbo thats supposed to be a bit faster than the W1. I am Full bolt on. Intake/Exhaust/DP/FMIC and I am planning on this turbo upgrade. What im scared of is all these 10th gens blowing up. Now I know if you beat your car you could make a stock civic blow up. What I am looking for is some help as far as how should I do it. I was going to have a really legit shop near me tune it as conservatively while making the most power it can. I heard something about not pushing it too hard around 4500k Basically is there anything I should definitely know or keep in mind? Can I run TSP stage 1 with the new drop in until I can afford a tune? Just need some advice here guys I plan on stopping here with a just a more fun version of my civic. If I can beat a stock type r that would be a plus.

Definitely not. Upgrading the turbo is always a nice thing to do but wait until you can do it right with a proper tune for it.

It could well be that Honda is one of the few companies with a stock bypass valve that's actually decent then. My experience with that basketcase of a BMW may not be relevant here.

FYI the factory bypass valve lets off boost pressure by design as one of several means of boost control with the factory ECU. We do not recommend replacing the factory bypass valve unless you are installing a turbo upgrade kit that requires it.

 

[NicKoLi]

Definitely not. Upgrading the turbo is always a nice thing to do but wait until you can do it right with a proper tune for it.


FYI the factory bypass valve lets off boost pressure by design as one of several means of boost control with the factory ECU. We do not recommend replacing the factory bypass valve unless you are installing a turbo upgrade kit that requires it.

Would a drop in turbo require it ?
I.E my situation with the rv6 drop in ?

 

[Two Step Performance]

Would a drop in turbo require it ?
I.E my situation with the rv6 drop in ?

No, it would not.

 

[NicKoLi]

Could I possibly get in the 3oohp range with full bolt on and a dyno tune? I just realized I would probably need a clutch and install and thats like another 2k which is crazy.

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