Mods for neutral handling

Ezil71

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New to the site and my 2020 sport touring hatch, coming from a highly modified bugeye wrx.

I am looking to get to a neutral balance and eliminate under steer. Spent a lot of time getting there with my wrx and loved it.

First Suspension mods will be an si rear bar With accord links and alignment (and better tires). Likely won’t do lowering springs.

Does the si rear bar get to neutral with a decent alignment? I understand the type R bar is too much from what I have read so far.

is there a general recommendation for a more aggressive alignment spec that is decent for a daily driver?

 

BarracksSi

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Slow in, fast out;

Less camber in the rear, more in the front (if you add toe-out to the rear, you'll sacrifice tread life);

Stiff rear bar, softer front bar;

And again, slow in - fast out. Overcooking the entry to a corner is a surefire way to overwhelm the front tires in a front-heavy FWD car and make them plow.
 

PowerPerLiter

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Go bigger than si bar if you can easily. It does help toward your goal but I had wished I went larger on my 2018...
 

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@BarracksSi hit the nail on the head.

Also Si is not going to be enough. Type R bar probably won't even be enough. 22mm rear bar is where I would start.
 

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Suspect People recommend SI RSB never really use one or, they are happy with it and never try other size. I bought the SI bar per recommendations on the forum and turned out to be fairly lamed, only slight improvement.

Bought a Whiteline 22mm. Its substantially better. It has two settings, soft setting would be close to TypeR, but I elect the stiff setting and I am happy on that. Rear sway links also changed to Accord end links for longer life.

I also installed front links from Whiteline but I am in the tail end on installing Koyorad and 27Won FMIC, so I am excited to see if the Whitelind front links helps.

I also install SI springs, that is a nice addition all without harness and the drop is just right.

Best handling improvement came from combo Rays 57CR and Michelin S4S for me.
 
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BarracksSi

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@BarracksSi hit the nail on the head.

Also Si is not going to be enough. Type R bar probably won't even be enough. 22mm rear bar is where I would start.
Yup. I have to say that changing shocks & struts, then changing front & rear bars, didn't do as much as 2. taking out excessive rear camber, and 1. learning to drive better.
 
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Ezil71

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22 solid or hollow? Big difference. I thought the type R was 22 solid and leads to over steer?
 
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Ezil71

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what alignment spec do you recommend for a stock daily driver?

with my wrx you could get about -1.5 to -1.8 or so up front with zero toe. Not sure how universal camber setting are across vehicles...
 

JO3L

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FK8 rear bar is a 20mm solid.

On your Civic with the front strut mount locating pins pulled you will max out around -1.0 degree camber front. The only thing you can adjust up front is toe setting through the tie rods. The rear has more adjustment through the eccentric bolt in the rear lower control arm. Try to limit the amount of rear negative camber if possible. Toe is a personal preference thing. Set as close to zero front and rear if you are worried about tire wear.
 

BarracksSi

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If you want to really get "into the weeds", you'll build yourself an alignment rig and, on race days, add a smidge of toe-in on the front and toe-out on the rear. Basically the opposite of stock, as stock alignment prefers understeering stability rather than oversteering tail-happiness.
 


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Ezil71

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Surprised that the front maxes out at -1.

so no simple mods upfront other than pulling the pins to get around -1.5 to -2.0?

Thanks for the info
 

The Vyzitor

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take as much weight off the front as you can. Carbon hood and fenders, and a lithium battery are the easiest targets... then getting coilovers and having the car corner balanced
 
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Ezil71

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take as much weight off the front as you can. Carbon hood and fenders, and a lithium battery are the easiest targets... then getting coilovers and having the car corner balanced
Just my daily driver..... but perhaps someday.
 

bangminah

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Follow this for basic alignment recommendations. Note that camber bolts do not apply to our platform. I had no issue rotating with -2 camber all around with 0 toe, type r sway bar, 6kg coilovers, and the all season 16" tires. Currently, on top of the previous mods, I have 255/225 reverse stagger, with my alignment at -3.2 camber front, 0 toe front, -2.5 camber rear, 0.08 toe in rear (each side). If it's never going to see track time, I think a simple alignment and sway bar, as well as good driver input is more than enough.
 

absolude

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Completely agree on the bigger than Si RSB. I have the Type R sway bar installed and I'm very happy.

Not sure how this chassis feels with a 22 mm bar but on my other car it can get a bit hairy on quick lane changes on the Hwy... Other than that is great.

 

 
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