Moded Cluth master cylinder and Slave clutch cylinder. (grinding issues)

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Yes with that master cylinder you need to find the right adjustments, the bad side is not the first time I heard that master cylinder get leak .
 

bbeem

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I will be making a couple next week, let me guys know I you need it .
I'm thinking about removing the clutch pedal bracket and modifying it to sense the full stroke on that swing measurement potentiometer sensor. Right now I'm adjusted so it doesn't sense the pedal all the way out and I can't set the cruise control. Has anyone successful fixed this so you can set cruise with the wilwood cmc or other cmc's?
 
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I'm thinking about removing the clutch pedal bracket and modifying it to sense the full stroke on that swing measurement potentiometer sensor. Right now I'm adjusted so it doesn't sense the pedal all the way out and I can't set the cruise control. Has anyone successful fixed this so you can set cruise with the wilwood cmc or other cmc's?
Unfortunately I already did, but the assembly is complex and won’t be easier to modify to get the Potentiometer reading that right travel.
What I will do your case is give you more free play to the assembly so you can play with the adjustment to get the right one For you clutch master cylinder. Assuming with your new clutch master cylinder you have too much flow going into slave so the stroke is short compared with stock.
 


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Unfortunately I already did, but the assembly is complex and won’t be easier to modify to get the Potentiometer reading that right travel.
What I will do your case is give you more free play to the assembly so you can play with the adjustment to get the right one For you clutch master cylinder. Assuming with your new clutch master cylinder you have too much flow going into slave so the stroke is short compared with stock.
Thanks for your help. IIRC the wilwood cmc is 5/8 bore. The problem is this is enough to overpressure if floored, if I don't have it adjusted how it is now. But now the reading is off so no cruise control. Also with it set like this, the pedal flops soft when you set your foot on it and flops like the fist .187 of press. Then it stiffens up and feels and actuates great. I can tolerate the little bit of dead pedal when I set my foot on and press the fist 3/16" but no cruise sucks.
 
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Thanks for your help. IIRC the wilwood cmc is 5/8 bore. The problem is this is enough to overpressure if floored, if I don't have it adjusted how it is now. But now the reading is off so no cruise control. Also with it set like this, the pedal flops soft when you set your foot on it and flops like the fist .187 of press. Then it stiffens up and feels and actuates great. I can tolerate the little bit of dead pedal when I set my foot on and press the fist 3/16" but no cruise sucks.
Try to get adjusted more far from the floor , you can have the same travel but adjusted differently. If travel is too long you can replace the stopper for a longer one .
 

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Is there a way to pre-turn the potiometer? It wont allow cruise because it thinks the pedal is depressed, correct?
 
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Is there a way to pre-turn the potiometer? It wont allow cruise because it thinks the pedal is depressed, correct?
That’s correct ,partially depressed , and no, you can’t adjust the potentiometer assembly in any way . At least no without do hard modifications
 

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That’s correct ,partially depressed , and no, you can’t adjust the potentiometer assembly in any way . At least no without do hard modifications
"Hard" is relative.
 


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"Hard" is relative.
In that case I would suggest to remove the whole clutch pedal assembly and see by yourself ..

Here some pics of the pedal clutch assembly.

Honda Civic 10th gen Moded Cluth master cylinder and Slave clutch cylinder. (grinding issues) pedals


Honda Civic 10th gen Moded Cluth master cylinder and Slave clutch cylinder. (grinding issues) Pedals2


Honda Civic 10th gen Moded Cluth master cylinder and Slave clutch cylinder. (grinding issues) pedals3
 

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Still making these?
 

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After doing this mod I tried first CDV delete, definitely after moded the slave clutch cylinder improve , but the 2nd grinding gear still there, (spirit shifting, specially after a U-turn , 1 gear WOT and then 2 gear ), I upgrade cable bushing, gearbox full adjustable shifter (Acuity ) and Amsoil and I adjusted the CMC rod, all this changes improve all the shifting experience but does not solve my problem, and after the CMC rod adjust the clutch pedal disengage was very far from the floor, before was more close, I didn't like that, make slope shifting experience (in mine opinion). After all that I decide to mod my Clutch Master Cylinder, and finally got smooth shifting, and is more direct , now I can do quick shifting and I now finally feel like the clutch fully disengage , now the clutch pedal is disengaging on the bottom, this allows to do quick shifting and the gear go in smooth .

Now finally I can enjoy my car, all this time was never happy with the shifting experience and always worried about grind my gears ,shifting very carefully trying to avoid any grind,
Hi I wanted to ask you if you think I will need only the CMC delay valve removed or the Slave Cylinder delay valve removal as well? One or both? I have stock clutch on my 1.5 Hatch. I am bothered with DELAYS to disengage.
 
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Hi I wanted to ask you if you think I will need only the CMC delay valve removed or the Slave Cylinder delay valve removal as well? One or both? I have stock clutch on my 1.5 Hatch. I am bothered with DELAYS to disengage.
Hello there!

I always recommend do both , because non of those mods is like a magical solution, but the overall is what it helps. If you do the mater clutch cylinder it will helps , or the salve but both together is the ideal .
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