Mechanical Over-rev / Money Shifted

[dwag0588]

To those saying get a compression check.

This is good advice. Better advice though is to get a leakdown test. This will isolate where the problem, if it exists, is occurring.

You can do this at home very easily. I bought a compression testing kit on Amazon for my Miata. It wasn’t very expensive. If you can change a spark plug, you can test compression. You just need to be sure to disconnect or pull the fuse for the fuel injectors so the car won’t actually run.

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[Tima5200]

Yea the info is stored and the dealer can see it

I believe it stores a permanent and unclearable code in the ECU. And a dealer would probably deny warranty coverage on your whole powertrain because of it

Thank you, thought so, wanted to get confirmation

 

[bluebluemike]

I believe it stores a permanent and unclearable code in the ECU. And a dealer would probably deny warranty coverage on your whole powertrain because of it

How would I be able to check if I have this code? When I first tuned my car with Ktuner, the revs were set to 7k (didn’t know redline would be changed) and I can’t remember if I redlined it or not after tuning and before I changed the settings. After I saw the redline set to 7k I changed it to 6700 and reflashed.

 

[gtman]

This code doesn't show up if someone just guns it and bounces off the rev limiter / fuel cut off. It's stored when, for example, you downshift on the highway to accelerate, mean to put it say 4th and accidentally get 2nd. A way over redline scenario. Something like 9-10K rpm, although I don't know the exact number.

 

[hobby-man]

How would I be able to check if I have this code? When I first tuned my car with Ktuner, the revs were set to 7k (didn’t know redline would be changed) and I can’t remember if I redlined it or not after tuning and before I changed the settings. After I saw the redline set to 7k I changed it to 6700 and reflashed.

I'm not sure you can, you probably need a Honda diagnostics scan tool to pull permanent codes like that.

 

[HustedDrums]

Funny you post this. I almost money shifted too a few days ago. Went from 2nd trying to go to 3rd and I went into 1st. I realized what I was doing and what had happened mid-shift. I didn't let the clutch all the way out and I immediately put into neutral before the rev's got too high.

I was only going about 20MPH thankfully. I was definitely paranoid after that too though. All sounds are OK with my car and I think those sounds are normal.

 

[hobby-man]

Funny you post this. I almost money shifted too a few days ago. Went from 2nd trying to go to 3rd and I went into 1st. I realized what I was doing and what had happened mid-shift. I didn't let the clutch all the way out and I immediately put into neutral before the rev's got too high.

I was only going about 20MPH thankfully. I was definitely paranoid after that too though. All sounds are OK with my car and I think those sounds are normal.

I would have thought the 1st gear lockout would prevent doing that

 

[bluebluemike]

This code doesn't show up if someone just guns it and bounces off the rev limiter / fuel cut off. It's stored when, for example, you downshift on the highway to accelerate, mean to put it say 4th and accidentally get 2nd. A way over redline scenario. Something like 9-10K rpm, although I don't know the exact number.

I heard that anything past redline (6800 or 9k) get stored which is why I was concerned.

 

[tinyman392]

Funny you post this. I almost money shifted too a few days ago. Went from 2nd trying to go to 3rd and I went into 1st. I realized what I was doing and what had happened mid-shift. I didn't let the clutch all the way out and I immediately put into neutral before the rev's got too high.

I was only going about 20MPH thankfully. I was definitely paranoid after that too though. All sounds are OK with my car and I think those sounds are normal.

That would be an over rev anyways. Without rev matching you’d just end up with a very rough shift, maybe some synchro wear.

I would have thought the 1st gear lockout would prevent doing that

If I’m not mistaken 1st gear goes though the high 20’s low 30’s.

 

[bluebluemike]

I'm not sure you can, you probably need a Honda diagnostics scan tool to pull permanent codes like that.

Dang it ?

 

[tinyman392]

I heard that anything past redline (6800 or 9k) get stored which is why I was concerned.

I’m not sure what the criteria is to store a code, but I’d assume > 7000 RPM for the Type R. It has a rev limiter on it’s own so if you’re bouncing it, that won’t cause the code. If you’re going 40 MPH in 2nd and shift to 1st instead of 3rd, that will be a different story though.

 

[bluebluemike]

I’m not sure what the criteria is to store a code, but I’d assume > 7000 RPM for the Type R. It has a rev limiter on it’s own so if you’re bouncing it, that won’t cause the code. If you’re going 40 MPH in 2nd and shift to 1st instead of 3rd, that will be a different story though.

I have the k20c2 which redlines at 67 but my ktuner set it to 7, and im just not sure if any of the WOT pulls I did after I flashed ever hit redline or not because I only realized that it was at 7k when I was reconfiguring the LED's and checking settings ?

 

[HustedDrums]

That would be an over rev anyways. Without rev matching you’d just end up with a very rough shift, maybe some synchro wear.



If I’m not mistaken 1st gear goes though the high 20’s low 30’s.

I have the auto rev match on at all times so it wasn't too rough of a shift but the car definitely lurched forwards a little bit. I'm not worried about it. Car still runs fine, no weird noises or nothing

 

[tinyman392]

I have the k20c2 which redlines at 67 but my ktuner set it to 7, and im just not sure if any of the WOT pulls I did after I flashed ever hit redline or not because I only realized that it was at 7k when I was reconfiguring the LED's and checking settings ?

If K-tuner set it higher, the code won't throw unless you're higher than that number. Or at least that's how it works on the FK8 if I'm not mistaken.

I have the auto rev match on at all times so it wasn't too rough of a shift but the car definitely lurched forwards a little bit. I'm not worried about it. Car still runs fine, no weird noises or nothing

Car will not rev match into 1st gear under any conditions. That's the one gear you have to do yourself.

 

[gtman]

I heard that anything past redline (6800 or 9k) get stored which is why I was concerned.

If ANYTHING past redline got stored, most manual drivers would probably have voided warranties.

Bouncing off the rev limiter, while annoying as f#@k, likely isn't damaging your engine or setting off a code. The example I gave earlier of going 60 mph on the highway and then shifting to 2nd gear is more what the stored overrev code is for (to my knowledge).

Having driven many manuals over a few decades, I consider myself a pretty good driver. I've hit the rev limiter on numerous occasions over the years with zero long term issues.

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