Max horsepower

[MoTeC R]

@Sales@USR What limitations have you seen on the stock Internals? I know they are forged, however I want to know what your R&D has shown without issues of bent rods etc. I've heard from various sources 450-500 with no issues, and I've also heard others having issues at that range with the stock internals. That's why I'm parked at where I am but obviously pushing over 400+ on both fronts, I could push more from my set-up but I haven't done an engine build yet and from my research says it’s really the low end torque that’s the main concern of how high it’s pushed. Any R&D advice on this topic would be most appreciated as the quality of the tune can be a large factor pushing a lot of power thru.

This is dual tune full E85 & dotted line is 93 pump.

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[Sales@USR]

We sent the motor to 4 Piston Racing for rebuild back in 2018, so we had the built block before we upgraded the turbo setup. However, 4 Piston found our block seemed to be defective from factory.

 

[MoTeC R]

We sent the motor to 4 Piston Racing for rebuild back in 2018, so we had the built block before we upgraded the turbo setup. However, 4 Piston found our block seemed to be defective from factory.

Wow, what did they say was defective? I will see what the dyne does in the warmer weather In 4 weeks, but I feel confident in the 450 range on WTQ after much research. Still gaining more insight every day but the stock clutch should easily hold 450 as long as you are driving the car properly.

I personally believe the internals will handle up to 500 as well as the clutch- however you will need to have a day of dyne tuning and no e-tunes etc for big power. It needs to be dialed In as precisely as possible for your individual vehicle and mods.

 

[RepyT]

Got over 400 WHP during tuning process NBO! They toned it down to a sustainable 367 whp/373 tq as highest of 7 settings. That’s +81 hp whp over stock and 77 ft lbs gain w/just tune. No touch ECU, 93 oct.
Racechip prototyping, kit out later this year and on YT.

 

[Patrick Bateman]

Got over 400 WHP during tuning process NBO! They toned it down to a sustainable 367 whp/373 tq as highest of 7 settings. That’s +81 hp whp over stock and 77 ft lbs gain w/just tune. No touch ECU, 93 oct.
Racechip prototyping, kit out later this year and on YT.

Cool story. Must be all that vinyl.

 

[RepyT]

Cool story. Must be all that vinyl.

You sound jealous and ignored Master Bateman.

 

[MoTeC R]

Cool story. Must be all that vinyl.

You sound jealous and ignored Master Bateman.

I think @Patrick Bateman was joking around @RepyT it's the old adage that every sticker adds +5hp. I am curious though how you would obtain 400+WHP with no ECU modifications as even bolt ons will require ECU programming. What are the full mods you're running to achieve 367 whp 373 wtq without ECU modification? Also What is a +81 HP NBO? Can you post the dyne run for your set-up?

 

[SpicyMcFatburger]

Got over 400 WHP during tuning process NBO! They toned it down to a sustainable 367 whp/373 tq as highest of 7 settings. That’s +81 hp whp over stock and 77 ft lbs gain w/just tune. No touch ECU, 93 oct.
Racechip prototyping, kit out later this year and on YT.

Do you have before and after dyno sheets?

 

[MoTeC R]

The race chip is nothing more than a base canned tune. The fuel system will not allow 400+ numbers on either side without bolt ons and ECU tuning. If you’re looking for a simple base tiune that’s about all you’ll get. The RACECHIP isn’t designed for big power applications.

Furthermore their own videos admit that that SI RACE CHIP took 18 months just to achieve these mild performance gains.

 

[RepyT]

Gents,
Say what you want, it surprised me too. This took quite a bit of testing with engineering and corporate review. I’m not out to change your minds, it is achievable with the right sensors and controls.
The +81 is how many HP gained over stock at the highest of 7 selectable settings with No Bolt Ons. The only thing not stock was a K&N air filter, now using AfE.
My exhaust, AWE Touring was installed AFTER tune stock settings were complete to ensure this was done on a (non-Cali) stock R. Exhaust increased HP around 5-7 and the tune was redone to keep it in what RC wanted, see attached. Production kits delayed by various parts suppliers of sensors due to COVID. Default is Sport mode, shown are settings 3, 5, 7 compared to stock, all dyno readings are wheel HP.
I think the fact this does what many achieve without nearly as much time and money pisses people off and they refuse to see it could work, and it does.. This is prototype, production harness installed soon. How can this be, no way, it doesn’t even talk to the ECU? My ODB Port is unused. Nice phone app allows changing number tunes on the fly (not during accel).
Mathematically if x(y)=z, then you can change x as RC does, or you can change y as tunes by Hondata and KTuner do. Both use different methods to achieve HP value z. You enjoy your tune, I’ll enjoy mine. The not as tech savvy will be able to buy and install or remove) their RC in under an hour later this year. Open minds to another way to achieve similar results?
No vinyl was harmed nor used to enhance results. Also, same genius that did the Si, did the R.
Scrutinizers should research the many successful tune gains achieved on high end Euro cars, this is no small company and like it or not H and K tune camp fans, it works!

 

[Rickyshoots]

I just got tuned I have quite a few mods
PRL FLex fuel
PRL intercooler
Hondata Fuel System upgrade
Hondata FlashPro
AWE Track Exhaust/frontpipe
Ballade sports Catless DP
Radium Dual Catch Cans
Rear Hasport motor mount
Acuity Shifter bushing

she made 417HP/407TQ on a Dyno jet which are great numbers and realistic considering a lot of dynos read higher or hub Dyno read very high so as of now im very satisfied with what power it makes

 

[MoTeC R]

Gents,
Say what you want, it surprised me too. This took quite a bit of testing with engineering and corporate review. I’m not out to change your minds, it is achievable with the right sensors and controls.
The +81 is how many HP gained over stock at the highest of 7 selectable settings with No Bolt Ons. The only thing not stock was a K&N air filter, now using AfE.
My exhaust, AWE Touring was installed AFTER tune stock settings were complete to ensure this was done on a (non-Cali) stock R. Exhaust increased HP around 5-7 and the tune was redone to keep it in what RC wanted, see attached. Production kits delayed by various parts suppliers of sensors due to COVID. Default is Sport mode, shown are settings 3, 5, 7 compared to stock, all dyno readings are wheel HP.
I think the fact this does what many achieve without nearly as much time and money pisses people off and they refuse to see it could work, and it does.. This is prototype, production harness installed soon. How can this be, no way, it doesn’t even talk to the ECU? My ODB Port is unused. Nice phone app allows changing number tunes on the fly (not during accel).
Mathematically if x(y)=z, then you can change x as RC does, or you can change y as tunes by Hondata and KTuner do. Both use different methods to achieve HP value z. You enjoy your tune, I’ll enjoy mine. The not as tech savvy will be able to buy and install or remove) their RC in under an hour later this year. Open minds to another way to achieve similar results?
No vinyl was harmed nor used to enhance results. Also, same genius that did the Si, did the R.
Scrutinizers should research the many successful tune gains achieved on high end Euro cars, this is no small company and like it or not H and K tune camp fans, it works!

But if you look at the comparison you hove more power down low but you are losing power over stock at around 5250 RPM in the graph you're presenting. Which turns the car Into less and less power 5250-Redline. In no way am I trying to discount your choices or throw shade just pointing out observations and data from others as well as RACE CHIP.

 

[RepyT]

But if you look at the comparison you hove more power down low but you are losing power over stock at around 5250 RPM in the graph you're presenting. Which turns the car Into less and less power 5250-Redline. In no way am I trying to discount your choices or throw shade just pointing out observations and data from others as well as RACE CHIP.

Thanks VTEC R for your assessment, really. The idea RC has I think is let’s add some power down low early, yes at slight expense of top end. This wasn’t necessarily aimed for track competition racing. I believe it’s more meant for casual street to burst driving maybe, that’s kind of what I like about it. Great low to midrange punch especially.
If/as I add any bolt ons that could change and retunes for mods come with. They can be pushed OTA (over the air via cell) to one or all users. If you change cars, you still get a retune too. I may not be first at the track but also don’t need the high rpm boost as useable daily power is more readily accessible, redlining my personal fun meter more often. It’s not always about top speed but on the street sometimes how quick you can get to posted limits. We have a decent sheriff department but that doesn’t mean I want to meet them all.
What I don’t quite get is close-minded haters that say this is impossible maybe because they’ve invested thousands to get more control perhaps but similar, better or worse results. RaceChip has a long trusted history of tuning MB, BMW, Porsche cars. Why would anyone think they couldn’t do a CTR too? This was one of their more complex efforts as ECU isn’t fond of exceeding expectations, just meeting them. That aspect meant adding another sensor (from Camaro) before resuming development.
The ease of use and ROI are better than either choice today and lower risk so I believe as limits/settings were set for sustainable lifetime operation. I know they got much higher power in Max peak testing that helped set these sensible limits. It’ll be a fine option for old farts like me that occasionally want to kick street butt.
I did add a Kyrorad dual core radiator to help with cooling with the extra hp and always do warm up (2 mins) and most of the time, cool downs. The mode flexibility independent of car modes is interesting but until you get on it hard in routine driving, not much diff in feel. Once you call for more, it’s there like the crouching R dragon we all love.

 

[RepyT]

The race chip is nothing more than a base canned tune. The fuel system will not allow 400+ numbers on either side without bolt ons and ECU tuning. If you’re looking for a simple base tiune that’s about all you’ll get. The RACECHIP isn’t designed for big power applications.

Furthermore their own videos admit that that SI RACE CHIP took 18 months just to achieve these mild performance gains.

Maybe you skipped over this more unbiased video to one by popular label fanboys, The first R tune was out of this country about a year ago. Three locations involved in balancing performance with reliability, Far East, Germany Corp HQ, FL USA HQ close by.

Do you see that in other go to max and one tick below that, release it., tunes? No, going for trophy today, not practical long term as over 400 hp needs much more improvement for long haul. This hits sweet spot, good enough for all but Perhaps racers today, beware tomorrow.. Diff target, this plays nicely on a stock R with big gains, bullseye! They may help me or others get higher gains later, it’s just as possible this way with FBOs.

Meanwhile, recommend blind spot mirrors as we’ll keep pace for sure.

The Truth About RaceChip

 

[Zeffy94]

Thanks VTEC R for your assessment, really. The idea RC has I think is let’s add some power down low early, yes at slight expense of top end. This wasn’t necessarily aimed for track competition racing. I believe it’s more meant for casual street to burst driving maybe, that’s kind of what I like about it. Great low to midrange punch especially.

How does the car deal with that additional power in terms of traction issues? Or are you using the additional power when you car already has full traction (so basically top of 2nd + 3rd and beyond)?

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