Maintaining my 2008 Honda Civic LX

[joenobodyyet]

Hello, I recently purchased an automatic transmission 2008 Honda Civic LX with 56,000 miles and I am compiling a list of all preventative maintenance items that I should address to keep my car running like a top. My 97 Civic LX just died, so I would like to maintain it as well as I can.

I like to do things myself to save money, but I am not super knowledgeable about cars. I don't have a garage or all of the proper tools, but I learned a lot while working on my 97 LX. I am prepared to keep up with this car religiously.

Here are some of the things I've thought of, but if you could answer my questions, and also add to the list of things I should keep up with, I would greatly appreciate it!



-How often should I change the oil? I've been wondering about changing it more often than recommended. I assume I should continue using synthetic oil. Are there better brands for synthetic oil? How about brand and type of oil filter?

-My power windows in my 97 had some troubles. Should I silicone spray my windows' side trims to help them slide better, and help the motor switches last longer?

-What are thoughts on fuel additives? Oil treatment additives? Engine treatments? Injector cleaner? Which are the best brands/types? Should I even use them? How often? I've seen products such as SeaFoam, Gumout, Lucas, Chemtool, STP, and other brands.

-Should I change the power steering fluid? What brand replacement fluid should I use? How often? Is this something I can do myself? I would be checking YouTube, and I also have a buddy with a garage who can help.

-Should I change the brake fluid? How often? Just DOT 3? I assume there's a video on youtube with instructions.

-Should I change the automatic transmission fluid? How often? I've read that I shouldn't "flush". Could someone explain the difference between "flush" and "drain and refill", and why I should or should not? The Owner's Manual says I should use Honda ATF-Z1 fluid

-Should I change the coolant/antifreeze? How often? Manual says to use Type 2.

-The seller told me I need a new battery. I was pricing them and found CA: 512, CCA: 410, RC: 70m for $70 w/ 2 year warranty OR CA: 625, CCA: 500, RC: 85m for $80 w/ 3 yr warranty (I use coupon codes at Advance Auto Parts online). Is the $80 overkill? Thoughts on car battery selection?

-How often should I change the air filter? Are there preferred types/brands? I've heard of one that you reuse and add oil, but I figure I don't mind spending $10-15 periodically for a new normal dry filter. I used to buy FRAM filters from Wal-Mart.

-How often should I change the cabin air filter?

-I read that changing the fuel filter is unnecessary, especially because I think it's located in the fuel tank of my 2008 Civic LX.

-Should I clean the mass air flow sensor? I got CRC brand spray.

-Should I clean the throttle body? I purchased CRC brand spray.

-How often should I rotate the tires?

-I used to purchase cheap tires, but should I be looking for anything particular when buying new tires for this 2008?

-I check the tire pressure pretty often, especially with free air and digital gauge at some gas stations

-I'll change tires when the tread is low

-How often should I get a wheel alignment?

-Should I spray the undercarriage during the winter with water to remove salt? Just wondering if spraying water on the exhaust in the winter would cause freezing and damage.

-Is there a way to keep the muffler from rusting? I had an issue with my 1997 LX muffler rusting. The weep hole kept rusting closed, causing the muffler to fill up with water.

-Do I need to change the PCV valve?

-Change spark plugs and wires? How often?

-Check and change hoses. How often?

-Change brake pads and rotors. How often? I'm pretty sure I have drum brakes in the rear. Are those difficult to change?

-Check belts. How often?

-This is my first automatic transmission vehicle. Should I use the parking brake when parking? I've heard its better to use the brake than the just having the transmission in park.

-Opinions on when to fill gas tank? Should I not let it get less than 1/4?

-I read that there is NO idle air control valve in a 2008, so that won't need cleaning.

-I believe this has a timing chain, not a belt. Is there any upkeep on a timing chain?



If anyone can think of anything I forgot, or provide more insight on maintaining my vehicle, I appreciate it. Thanks!

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[arhncmh]

Shouldn't you be posting your questions on 8thcivic.com?

 

[joenobodyyet]

Shouldn't you be posting your questions on 8thcivic.com?

I tried but I've been waiting for them to approve it for a few days now.

 

[360glitch]

Shouldn't you be posting your questions on 8thcivic.com?

I tried but I've been waiting for them to approve it for a few days now.

While this site is 10th gen specific, maybe someone can chime in with tips for your 8th gen.

 

[cypress]

Yeah I came from 8thcivic.com myself and switched to this site once I got my Civic. Many of your questions would be best answered by a mechanic. I can answer a couple of the simples questions.

-You are best getting the air filter and cabin filter at a place like Autozone, for my 2007 Civic they were each costing me about $20-25 each. I change the filter about every 15-20,000 miles and they were both easy to change.

-Spark Plugs I had to change around 100,00 miles.

-When it comes to gas tank I would start getting ready to gas up when it gets to 3 bars. Once it drops to 2 bars it only a matter of time before the amber light comes up. I would run it on the amber light sometimes and never had an issue. Finally sold my car at 150,000.

-You shouldn't have to worry about the timing chain. Never had an issue there. The only belt I did change was the Serpentine and I changed them under Maintenance at every 65,000 miles.

-I went by the percentage on the vehicle when it came to changing the oil and I used standard. Whenever I changed the oil I always got the tires rotated. The dealership I went to rotated the tires with the oil change because I purchased tires from them. Some places may include that with the oil change.

-When it comes to the battery you can stop by Autozone and they will check the battery for you. I got mine from Honda and they gave me a 3 year warranty got. Got it replaced under that when it went back in between that.

 

[arhncmh]

56K is super low (6.2K/Yr.). Almost a new car in Honda terms. If you meant 156K, this message should be different.

I changed the oil and filter (Purolator PureOne or Fram Ultra) every 3K in my 8th Gen. I used conventional at the start, then synthetic blends, then eventually full synthetic (Mobil 1 Extended Mileage) all the time toward the end (0w20).

Don't use any petroleum-based products on the rubber window guides. If the windows are binding, there's something else wrong. I never had any window issues and I had to operate my driver's side daily to show my ID to get into work.

I added Chevron Techron to my tank after each oil change (add to a full tank, or just before you fill). Never had any fuel or injector issues.

I never had any power steering pump issues, but at 150K+, it did sound a little grumpy in cold weather at times. Check and only add to fill line. If it leaks or the level drops consistently, find the leak and get it fixed. The hardest part of changing the pump is taking off the serpentine belt, which you'd need a special long wrench for. Yes you can YouTube it.

Honda recommends flushing the brake fluid annually, but I only bled the system when I replaced the brakes, which was once at 70K miles in the front (rotors). I did the back lines once even though the rear pads still looked like new after 100K. You can buy a tool to bleed the lines yourself, but it's easier if you have a helper to assist and push down the brake pedal while bleeding.

Tranny fluid I believe is drain and fill (3 quarts I believe) every 30K miles. Correct do not flush (flush means remove pan and filter to get all out plus run fresh through, drain again & re-did with all fresh). Castrol makes a fluid that's compatible with Hondas.

Coolant once every 100K unless you see color or rust issues. Honda OEM coolant is blue. Zerex makes an "Asian" coolant that meets Honda's specs. It's red in color.

No comment on battery other than I get mine at Costco (Interstate).

Air filter, change once a year. Can go longer. Fram is fine. Take it out and hold it up between you and the sun or a bright light to see how dirty it actually is. K&N filters are supposed to last forever, but they must be oiled. When I tried one, it made my engine throw a code so I took it back and got a refund.

Cabin air filter once a year.

If you have to change the fuel filter you have problems. Don't worry about it.

If the MAF has issues, your engine will likely throw a code. Cleaning it is easy, but shouldn't be an issue.

Rotate tires each oil change, or no more than 10K miles. I try to buy tires with tread that can roll in either direction so I can cross-rotate. Cross rotating results in more even tire wear.

I rely on internet research and Consumer Reports to select tires.

I always have the alignment checked right before or soon after I buy tires and if I notice uneven wear patterns or if the car doesn't track straight.

Run your car through the car wash if you're worried about road salt damage.

Most modern cars come new with stainless steel or aluminized components which should last the life of the car. If there is rust, it usually occurs at the weld joints or at the flanges where components connect together.

PCV Valve shouldn't be a problem. If it was failing, your engine would run rough and likely throw a code.

OEM spark plugs are iridium and should last 100K miles. When I changed mine, I got the dealer to break the threads loose because they were in there too tight for me to feel confident loosening without breaking. Cost me $100.

Your car doesn't have spark plugs wires, it uses Coil-on-plug ignitors. There are electrical leads to the ignitors, but they shouldn't need to be replaced.

You shouldn't have to change a coolant hose unless it sustains physical damage and leaks.

Your car has one belt, a serpentine style. Pain in the butt to change but fundamentally a good component that should last until it gets too dry and cracked. Check visually and replace if it's showing cracks on the side with ridges.

Always use the parking brake when you park, no matter what kind of transmission the car has.

When the low fuel light comes on, it's time to buy gas.

Timing chains should last the life of the car and shouldn't require any maintenance. Don't buy a car that uses a belt. Antiquated technology worth avoiding.

Good luck and ease up on the coffee or Red Bull or whatever it is that's got you all wound up lol.

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