BlinkerBeat
Senior Member
- First Name
- Josh
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2019
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 93
- Reaction score
- 133
- Location
- Central IL
- Vehicle(s)
- '19 CTR, F80 M3, '16 Colorado Diesel, '65 Lincoln Continental
Thanks for your confirmation.
Ive had large qty stuff made in china for dirt cheap, i assume this part would be less than 50c per "side" with anodizing.I respect people defending Spoon on this, but these are just a set of collapsable aluminum washers, the price of the Spoon set is just because Spoon, because the manufacturing cost of those are 10$ at most, including the sushi lunch for the guy operating the press machine.
They don't even print the instructions in english to give it more JDM feeling, that's all.
I'm not completely sold either. Multiple mounting points with very large bolts .. I doubt the subframe is movingI was intrigued by these but then after reading a ton I really think these things are either not necessary at all, and worse I think over time having those dissimilar metals locked together even with that grease isn't a good idea.
This is my take too, and I have them installed. I did it for proper subframe alignment though.I'm not completely sold either. Multiple mounting points with very large bolts .. I doubt the subframe is moving
I don't have a Type R (Si), but I spent the $36 on the Honda subframe alignment tool. With maybe 15 minutes of reinstalling the subframe and using the tool to shift it around I have perfect alignment and even camber on both sides with the strut towers pushed all the way in.This is my take too, and I have them installed. I did it for proper subframe alignment though.
What the heck - did not know that existed. Can you link the tool?I don't have a Type R (Si), but I spent the $36 on the Honda subframe alignment tool. With maybe 15 minutes of reinstalling the subframe and using the tool to shift it around I have perfect alignment and even camber on both sides with the strut towers pushed all the way in.
It's really not hard to line up the subframe and get it square.
I bet it's harder to install the collars than it is to use the alignment tool.
Same...might have went that route had I known.What the heck - did not know that existed. Can you link the tool?
My mechanical engineer friend said 'once torqued to spec that thing is not moving this is complete snake oil'. Also some alignment's do require adjusting the subframe if a car just can't be aligned, but once they adjust then re-torque to spec, it's not like there is travel.I'm not completely sold either. Multiple mounting points with very large bolts .. I doubt the subframe is moving
Disclaimer: The tool is pretty much just a long, specifically sized peg you use in conjunction with following the service manual subframe alignment procedure. One end is marked "FRONT" and is a different size than the other end marked "REAR". I will say it was not difficult at all and my results are fantastic, but it's up to you to get the alignment right. The benefit of the collars would be you let them do the work of lining the subframe up.What the heck - did not know that existed. Can you link the tool?
i bet they use this in the factory for installationDisclaime
You'd think that, but when I aligned my front subframe on reinstallation my steering was pretty well off to one side, meaning I reinstalled it pretty far away from the factory location.i bet they use this in the factory for installation