Lurker_J's Burrows ('18 Si Sedan)

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lurker_j

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I wanted to match my headlight bulbs to the daytime running lights/side marker LED bulbs, so I tried PIAA xtreme white bulbs for my headlights, high beams, and fogs.
71z3-pE4UDL._SX425_.jpg


I haven't put the fogs bulbs in yet, but here are some pictures of the PIAA bulbs in the main projector housing. You can see the difference between the OEM yellow-white hue (fogs), PIAA 4000k halogens (main head lamp), and the LED bulbs, (adjacent DRLs/side markers). For the price of the bulbs, I hope these last a long time, but the hue of the bulbs just weren't what I was looking for. They are definitely brighter than stock, and the light is thrown further, but it just isn't white enough for me. I may move to HIDs in the future so I can achieve the look.

IMG_1345.JPG


IMG_1346.JPG


IMG_1347.JPG



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MavicTB

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I wanted to match my headlight bulbs to the daytime running lights/side marker LED bulbs, so I tried PIAA xtreme white bulbs for my headlights, high beams, and fogs.
71z3-pE4UDL._SX425_.jpg


I haven't put the fogs bulbs in yet, but here are some pictures of the PIAA bulbs in the main projector housing. You can see the difference between the OEM yellow-white hue (fogs), PIAA 4000k halogens (main head lamp), and the LED bulbs, (adjacent DRLs/side markers). For the price of the bulbs, I hope these last a long time, but the hue of the bulbs just weren't what I was looking for. They are definitely brighter than stock, and the light is thrown further, but it just isn't white enough for me. I may move to HIDs in the future so I can achieve the look.

IMG_1345.JPG


IMG_1346.JPG


IMG_1347.JPG
This car should have come equipped with HID or LEDs from the factory for this trim level. Even a base model carolla comes with LEDs.
 
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This car should have come equipped with HID or LEDs from the factory for this trim level. Even a base model carolla comes with LEDs.
I really agree. I mean, it even comes with a projector housing! It should have just came equipped. If I remember correctly, the canadian Si's DO get the LEDs from factory, so why not us?!
 

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I also don't understand why my caster keeps shifting. I know caster isn't adjustable on these cars, but sometimes it is in spec, sometimes it's not.
Caster is adjustable by shifting the subframe, holes are slotted for this reason. Shift subframe forward to increase caster
 
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Changed some stuff around in the car since my last posts:

Changed from Hasport 62A rear motor mount to the HardRace rear motor mount. The Hasport mount added too much NVH for my liking, yet wanted some balance between getting more power to the ground, yet lowering the NVH. The HardRace mount gives just that as it is using a hardened rubber bushing and a polyamide nylon composite with 50% glass fiber shell, as opposed to the aluminum shell and polyurethane bushings in the Hasport mount. Per HardRace, "The durometer of the 8722 mount will be comparable to a 65a on the durometer scale, while most factory mounts are closer to a 50-55a." The design of the mount looks bulky, yet it is actually lighter feeling than the OEM mount. I am most satisfied with my HR mount as I can still feel the increased response at the wheels with acceleration, yet don't have the complaints from my wife of the car between too rattling.

Here are some comparison pictures between the three mounts.

Left: OEM, Right: HardRace
IMG_4386 2.JPG


Top: OEM, Bottom: HardRace
IMG_2260.JPG


OEM internal bushing
IMG_0044.JPG


Hardrace internal bushing
IMG_9760.JPG


Top: HardRace, Bottom: Hasport
IMG_8655.JPG


Left: HardRace, Right: Hasport
IMG_1117 2.JPG
 
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Put in my PRL downpipe and front pipe, as well wrapped the turbo with the PTP Lava Turbo Blanket. The car still has the stock exhaust after the front pipe, but with the catless DP and larger diameter, the car is significantly louder. I enjoy being able to hear my more, but I worry about drone being an issue when I change the rest of the exhaust. The boost pressure does build faster now with both the DP and turbo blanket. Would definitely recommend them both to anyone who wants the best bang for their buck on the performance end and is interested in their early power gainers.

I waited to the put the turbo blanket on for when my DP and FP were ready to go in as well so I would only have to take everything apart once. Though others say you can put the blanket on without taking the DP off, or say you can put the DP on without removing the plastic top intake runner, are crazy IMO and are making the job much harder for themselves. Taking off the plastic runner is a PITA since it one big piece connected to the turbo itself, and also has 4 bolts that you have to remove that you can't even see, but it really helps you understand how the turbo system is put together on the engine when you do the work yourself. It was worth the work.

Here are some comparisons of OEM vs PRL equipment. 2 in diameters to 3 in now.

IMG_0631.JPG


IMG_6122.JPG


IMG_6764.JPG


IMG_7009.JPG
 
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I also replaced my intake and put the PRL Cobra cold air intake with the Race MAF on. I feel more power response throughout the RPM band compared to the old Injen one and the fuel trims have also leveled out more consistently. I wouldn't be able to do any of these mods successfully without my Hondata Flashpro and the mods it comes with, so I am thankful they added a Race MAF calibration as well as an 2nd O2 sensor disabler for the catless downpipe to not throw codes. Don't have any pics of the Cobra intake, but there are plenty of pics on the forums in case you're interested in what it looks like.

I was able to install the intake on the ground without a lift or jacks, but it would have been much easier if I could have taken my driver side front wheel off. Getting the air filter into the fender was quite the suck, but enough jamming and bloody knuckles will make anything good to go after a while.
 
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Lastly, I finally built up enough nerve to wrap my side skirts with the CF wrap I bought a while ago. I wanted my skirts to match the front lip I have, so I ended up going with 3M Dinoc Gloss black carbon fiber (CA-1170). This is the first time I've ever wrapped anything, but I think it came out well. I was really only concerned with the exterior of the side skirts, so its only the side that shows that have been wrapped. Messing around the wrap is not for the faint of heart for sure, and you definitely have to be patient with pulling and heating. I also used 1/4" 3M 471 red vinyl marking tape to line the skirts and match the front lip.

I need to get better at going around the curved edges and 90 degree edges, and still haven't really figured out the best technique for a clean cut. Here are the results:

IMG_1907.JPG


IMG_6140.JPG


IMG_7805.JPG
 
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Put my side skirts on today. Pretty easy install as it is just 3 clips under the rocker panel, then I added 2 screws on the back and 3 other screws underneath the front portion into the rocker panel to keep it all together. Just had to jack the car up from the rear center point near the exhaust to lift the car enough to get a drill underneath. I noticed my vinyl CF wrap edges coming off in the sun, so I had to clean them up a bit. I hope the wraps last a couple seasons at least. This was the first time I wrapped something so definitely more to learn, especially on the edges.

IMG_2139.JPG


IMG_5205.JPG


IMG_4067.JPG


IMG_4718.JPG
 

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Looks good what side skirts are those?
 
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They dont specify 2dr or 4dr! are they the same?
Unfortunately not. The coupe is shorter so these are 4 door only. On their site, if you are looking for skirts, there is always a fitment section when you scroll down lower on the page in between the item description and reviews, but when I checked it didn't look like they made many things for the coupe.
 
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**Copied from original post in the MAPerformance Exhaust Group Buy thread**

I installed my exhaust today and just wanted to share some thoughts and tips to help others in the future:

1) Make sure you have some exhaust support stands (I had to use two) to support the OEM exhaust as I was prying out the rubber hangers so it wouldn't come falling onto me.
IMG_2171.JPG


2) The rubber hangers are a bitch to get out. I tried a screw driver at first, but ended up having to use a medium size pry-bar to get enough leverage to get the hanger off the car. It is easy to take the hangers off the exhaust once the exhaust is off the car.
IMG_5334.JPG


3) The V-bands use 13 mm socket head and the clamp connects resonated and unresonated midpipe sections uses a 15 mm socket head. If you are using a PRL front pipe and connecting it to this, the PRL nuts use a 14 mm socket head.
IMG_3775.JPG

IMG_1206.JPG


4) Something I didn't think about until I actually put the exhaust on but if you are not MAP from DP through the cat back, then you may not have a full 3 in exhaust all the way down. This is what happened to me.

I have a PRL noncatted DP and FP (both 3 in), but I ordered the MAP exhaust with the "using OEM front pipe" option. The OEM front pipe is 2.5 inches. So the initial connection between the front pipe and the midpipe section (the little crescent piece with the 3 bolt flanges) has a 2.5 opening that extends to 3 inches in that short piece. So my exhaust system from the turbo goes: 3 in DP, 3 in FP, 2.5 - 3 in connector, 3 in midpipe, 3 in exhaust.

If you are going MAP everything from the turbo back, then you should be 3 inches all the way due to their V-band connection between the front pipe and midpipe section IIRC.

5) The exhaust welded on pieces of metal that connect to the rubber hangers don't have the mushroom heads the the OEM exhaust has. I haven't driven the car hard yet with the new exhaust, but I worry that the exhaust can come out of the hangers easily if you have a lot of vibration or shifting through the system. My has stayed put after I drove home from the shop.
IMG_8529.JPG


6) IMO, the Street exhaust is pretty loud. Definitely louder than the OEM exhaust, but makes sense considering its one less muffler with a more straight through system. I am also straight piped, so under load, my ears are hurting me a bit in the cabin. For your consideration though, the Hasport 62A motor mount had too much harshness in the cabin from dead stop for my liking, so that gives you an idea of my comfort tolerances. The exhaust is funny because under load, it can be real loud, but when you let up and give it just a small amount of gas, holding it at 10% throttle or less, there is almost no exhaust note at all and is almost silent. It was a really interesting phenomenon in the car. The sample videos MAP put out capture the tone of the exhaust well. It sounds beautiful. But just the pure decibels of the tone can be too loud for my own self sometimes. I haven't driven it more than 3 miles though and I don't know if exhausts can get quieter after they've been broken in a bit. In hindsight, I probably would have went with the Stealth if I had the choice to again, or got a catted DP to offset some of the noise. I use my car as DD and almost purely street car for reference. Any video I take doesn't really capture how loud the exhaust is in reality. I'm not mad or disappointed, was just surprised. I'm keep the exhaust on the car as it looks much better than the HDMI port to me.

7) I put the exhaust on the car one piece at a time and only tightened each connector just enough to hold the exhaust together, but loose enough that I could shift it around to get each pipe piece to slide properly in the headshields. Don't completely tighten everything until you are set on how the pipes fit together. It took me about an hour of loosening and retightening bolts until I figured out how to keep everything straight and as intended under the car. The V-bands make it easy to put everything together, but they also allow the different sections of the pipes to rotate, so make sure everything is rotated correctly before you tighten the bands and lock them into place. The order in which I tightened everything down was 1) rear v-band, exhaust tip section to nonresonated midpipe, 2) front v-band, resonated midpipe section to small connector to front pipe, 3) frontpipe connector to front pipe bolts, 4) midpipe sleeve bolts (between unresonated and resonated cut portions). As I tightened the sleeve bolts on the midpipe sections, it kept shifting the pipe to the right and pressing the mid resonator against the heat shield of the car. I had to reloosen them and apply pressure to holding the pipes in the place I wanted them while also tightening the bolts. It may be helpful to have a second set of hands for some of this as well as taking the OEM exhaust down. It is really bulky and awkward to move on your own since it is one long piece (OEM exhaust).

Overall, the exhaust is well-made and looks great under the car.

**edits after driving more: After driving the car for ~60 miles more today, the noise gets a little softer (or I just got used to it) leading me to believe there is some break-in time with the exhaust. It is still loud, but I don't have to turn my music up as loud to hear it over the exhaust anymore.

Also, the exhaust doesn't become silent at a certain RPM, but rather a certain exhaust flow rate. For me, I noted if I held the throttle consistently at 10% or less while cruising (no matter the gear or RPM), the exhaust system became really quiet. So when the exhaust gas flow is just right, all noise becomes dampened. If you let off the throttle at all, the noise will go back up, as well as if you accelerate again, you will get increased noise as expected.
IMG_7756.jpeg
 
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**Copied from original post in the MAPerformance Exhaust Group Buy thread**

I installed my exhaust today and just wanted to share some thoughts and tips to help others in the future:

1) Make sure you have some exhaust support stands (I had to use two) to support the OEM exhaust as I was prying out the rubber hangers so it wouldn't come falling onto me.
IMG_2171.JPG


2) The rubber hangers are a bitch to get out. I tried a screw driver at first, but ended up having to use a medium size pry-bar to get enough leverage to get the hanger off the car. It is easy to take the hangers off the exhaust once the exhaust is off the car.
IMG_5334.JPG


3) The V-bands use 13 mm socket head and the clamp connects resonated and unresonated midpipe sections uses a 15 mm socket head. If you are using a PRL front pipe and connecting it to this, the PRL nuts use a 14 mm socket head.
IMG_3775.JPG

IMG_1206.JPG


4) Something I didn't think about until I actually put the exhaust on but if you are not MAP from DP through the cat back, then you may not have a full 3 in exhaust all the way down. This is what happened to me.

I have a PRL noncatted DP and FP (both 3 in), but I ordered the MAP exhaust with the "using OEM front pipe" option. The OEM front pipe is 2.5 inches. So the initial connection between the front pipe and the midpipe section (the little crescent piece with the 3 bolt flanges) has a 2.5 opening that extends to 3 inches in that short piece. So my exhaust system from the turbo goes: 3 in DP, 3 in FP, 2.5 - 3 in connector, 3 in midpipe, 3 in exhaust.

If you are going MAP everything from the turbo back, then you should be 3 inches all the way due to their V-band connection between the front pipe and midpipe section IIRC.

5) The exhaust welded on pieces of metal that connect to the rubber hangers don't have the mushroom heads the the OEM exhaust has. I haven't driven the car hard yet with the new exhaust, but I worry that the exhaust can come out of the hangers easily if you have a lot of vibration or shifting through the system. My has stayed put after I drove home from the shop.
IMG_8529.JPG


6) IMO, the Street exhaust is pretty loud. Definitely louder than the OEM exhaust, but makes sense considering its one less muffler with a more straight through system. I am also straight piped, so under load, my ears are hurting me a bit in the cabin. For your consideration though, the Hasport 62A motor mount had too much harshness in the cabin from dead stop for my liking, so that gives you an idea of my comfort tolerances. The exhaust is funny because under load, it can be real loud, but when you let up and give it just a small amount of gas, holding it at 10% throttle or less, there is almost no exhaust note at all and is almost silent. It was a really interesting phenomenon in the car. The sample videos MAP put out capture the tone of the exhaust well. It sounds beautiful. But just the pure decibels of the tone can be too loud for my own self sometimes. I haven't driven it more than 3 miles though and I don't know if exhausts can get quieter after they've been broken in a bit. In hindsight, I probably would have went with the Stealth if I had the choice to again, or got a catted DP to offset some of the noise. I use my car as DD and almost purely street car for reference. Any video I take doesn't really capture how loud the exhaust is in reality. I'm not mad or disappointed, was just surprised. I'm keep the exhaust on the car as it looks much better than the HDMI port to me.

7) I put the exhaust on the car one piece at a time and only tightened each connector just enough to hold the exhaust together, but loose enough that I could shift it around to get each pipe piece to slide properly in the headshields. Don't completely tighten everything until you are set on how the pipes fit together. It took me about an hour of loosening and retightening bolts until I figured out how to keep everything straight and as intended under the car. The V-bands make it easy to put everything together, but they also allow the different sections of the pipes to rotate, so make sure everything is rotated correctly before you tighten the bands and lock them into place. The order in which I tightened everything down was 1) rear v-band, exhaust tip section to nonresonated midpipe, 2) front v-band, resonated midpipe section to small connector to front pipe, 3) frontpipe connector to front pipe bolts, 4) midpipe sleeve bolts (between unresonated and resonated cut portions). As I tightened the sleeve bolts on the midpipe sections, it kept shifting the pipe to the right and pressing the mid resonator against the heat shield of the car. I had to reloosen them and apply pressure to holding the pipes in the place I wanted them while also tightening the bolts. It may be helpful to have a second set of hands for some of this as well as taking the OEM exhaust down. It is really bulky and awkward to move on your own since it is one long piece (OEM exhaust).

Overall, the exhaust is well-made and looks great under the car.

**edits after driving more: After driving the car for ~60 miles more today, the noise gets a little softer (or I just got used to it) leading me to believe there is some break-in time with the exhaust. It is still loud, but I don't have to turn my music up as loud to hear it over the exhaust anymore.

Also, the exhaust doesn't become silent at a certain RPM, but rather a certain exhaust flow rate. For me, I noted if I held the throttle consistently at 10% or less while cruising (no matter the gear or RPM), the exhaust system became really quiet. So when the exhaust gas flow is just right, all noise becomes dampened. If you let off the throttle at all, the noise will go back up, as well as if you accelerate again, you will get increased noise as expected.
IMG_7756.jpeg
Nice looking build you have here. Thanks for all the great info!
 

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