Lurker_J's Burrows ('18 Si Sedan)

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lurker_j

lurker_j

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At my recent visit to the shop, I took a look at my CV boot on my passenger side again after I accidently tore it 2mm while putting on the lowering springs. When I found the leak, I used some duct tape to try and seal it, but I think this is going to be the next fix as soon as I can. Theres no noise coming from the axle or anything, but I don't know how much grease I'm losing per drive. This is after 1 week of driving:

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I'm wondering if the grease will just seal itself off in the little nooks and crannies it has leaked through already, but it's probably just better to get it replaced sooner than later.



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lurker_j

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Put on my hub-centric rings today. Very quick install, just take off the wheels, pop in the ring to the backside of the wheel, and replaced it back onto the car.

I originally didn’t think it would make a difference, but the poly-carbonate space-fillers actually make the ride smoother. When I hit bumps, it doesn’t feel as hard on the car. Before, I would have some full body car shaking, but not it feels like the suspension takes most of the brunt and the cabin gets most of the brunt.

It is only 9 mm of open space without the rings, but with all the weight on the wheel studs rather than help from hub originally, the minute travel of the wheel bouncing on the studs made enough of a difference it was noticeable. It is good to feel closer to that OEM ride again, but with the style of aftermarket exteriorly.

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The louvers are also finished being painted. They are the glossier black I wanted them to be, but painting them outside and letting them dry there left them a bit disappointing with the gloss since tiny pieces of nature’s elements fell into the drying paint. :|

From far away, the louvers look fine, but I get real perfectionist when I look close and its bothersome. I’ll probably resand them down again and do it again to do a better job with a better painting environment when I have more time. Will have pics of the finished product later.
 
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lurker_j

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Changed all the interior bulbs to TypeRLEDs white bulbs and the rear bulbs to extra bright LEDs in the reverse lights, brake lights, and turn signals. Tried to take pictures, but they don't really do the bulbs justice with how bright the bulbs actually are compared to OEM. It is actually kind of blinding if you look straight at them, but luckily it should only be annoying if you're stuck behind me at a light. It's kind of the same intensity as an HID but on your rear lights.
 
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Curb rashed my passenger side front wheel because I was rushing and underestimated the size of car relative to space I had left. :cry::cry::cry: Also took a chunk out of my rear passenger wheel in a parking lot and didn't see a curb when turning. I had to file down part of the wheel lip with 1000 grit sand paper because the chip left some pretty sharp metal sticking out. Oh, the wide wheel woes.

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Took a universal silver paint pen I bought from Auto Zone to the scuffed up part of my rims and made it less hurtful to look at. Came out as a pretty good band-aid to the problem for now. I used to be able to see the scuffs from over 15 feet away, but now everything looks smooth again from afar at least.

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I also pulled my Injen cold air intake out and went back to the stock airbox without the resonator for now. After some research on the forums, I was seeing people complain about their fuel trims in relation to the design of the Injen intake, so I did my own data logs to see. The top log is LTFT vs AFM with the Injen intake; the bottom log is with the stock airbox.

Injen cold air intake:
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OEM air intake without resonator:
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With the OEM air box, the throttle feels more responsive on the lower RPM range, but boost feels limited at the higher range. The car doesn't lug anymore when starting from a stop though, so I'm feeling better about removing the Injen intake.

I'm going to replace the intake with the PRL cold air intake with race MAF and use the Hondata race MAF tune, otherwise I would have still just taken the PRL CAI but with the street MAF so I could retain similar fuel trims as OEM.
 
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A couple things I ordered recently finally came in and will be installing in a few weeks when I get garage time:

Hasport 62A mount
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Didn't need anything much stiffer for now and didn't want big NVH additions that you get from the Boomba or higher rated hardness mounts. My wife already can't take some of the stiffness of my lowering springs sometimes :p, so a big NVH addition would probably drive her crazy.

Civic Type-R front lip
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Went to my local dealership and got a Type R front lip for $150 flat. Definitely going to have to modify it, but with this forum, I'm standing on the shoulders of giants here and just gotta follow in their lead cutting down the backstops and sanding 'em.
I'm going to follow these steps set out by @greentrees: https://www.civicx.com/threads/type-r-front-lip.12946/page-3

Thanks for the doin' the hard part and paving the way!
 
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Bryce.exe

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Has anyone tried that lip on a coupe?
 
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This morning, I was able to get my Hasport 62A rear engine mount put in. I used Hasport's installation video:
They make it look a lot easier to get into the tight space than it actually is. The mount is much thicker and harder than the OEM mount, you can see the difference here:

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I lubed up the mount with dish soap to try and get it to slide in, but the polyurethane is pretty stiff and you have to really wrestle it into position with a rubber mallet and pry bar. Though this was a simple enough install, it was just a lot of wrestling with the mount to get it in since it is bigger.

So far, the mount make cabin noise much louder when at idle. I am not sure if my wife will approve of this particular mod as it can be jarring compared to what the car was like stock. I know the mount needs time to break in as well so we'll see how much better it gets. I'm just glad I didn't get the stiffer compounds at this point. Driving-wise, it feels much better. The power feels like it gets to the ground much better and gear engagement feels much more solid. When under acceleration or even just cruising, the increased NVH is gone. Because of the increased driving feel, it definitely makes up for the increased cabin vibration/noise. All-in-all, I'd still recommend this modification, just know the break-in process will be a bit rough at first.
 
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Earlier I noted that I ripped my CV boot on my own mistake when I was installing my lowering springs. I decided to just change the whole passenger side half axle since just replacing the boot would still require me to remove the drive shaft. One thing people should know is that when you buy the half axle, you have to pull the WHOLE passenger side drive axle from the transmission, including the drive shaft support, in order to replace the axle.

Rather than the C-clip that usually holds the axle into the transmission, the C-clip is in between the two different shafts in the drive shaft support section.
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The top portion is the part that you'd normally buy, and it needs to be pried off the axle using a vice and a slide hammer, so the whole axle needs to be pulled from the transmission.
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The rest of the axle replacement is the same as older Honda Civics. Here is the general outline of how I pulled the axle and replaced it:
 
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I finally had extra weekend time and removed my front bumper so I could properly put on my Civic Type-R front lip. After using a dremel to cut off the parts of lip that would make the lip unstable on my sedan, I screwed the sides in first, then used a heat gun to heat up the lip and mold it better to the bumper.
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View attachment 112701
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Here's the video I used to remove the bumper:

Instructions of how I mounted bumper:
https://www.civicx.com/threads/type-r-front-lip.12946/page-3
 
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My rear Civic Type R replica bumper came in from Ikon Motorsports. Overall the quality is alright. It came in a box that was way too big for it and was not wrapped well at all, with all the pieces of the bumper bouncing around without any support and possibly scratching the bumper. I put at the pieces together and was quote $650 to have it paint matched to my car, so it is going to be a while until I can get this finished and onto the car. You can see all the scratches it came with as a testament to the company that sold me this. It also has these little holes in the bumper that I have to figure out how to fill as well before I get it painted. Though the bumper itself is ~$450, after repairing the bumper, filling the holes, and painting it, it could be over $1000. If you're thinking about getting this bumper, have a plan for it.
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It also comes with these super fake rear CTR exhaust cylinders that aren't open at all. They just screw into the bumper and then there are supplied pipe tips so the exhaust will be vented down toward the ground, but still behind the bumper. This is definitely something that will just stay off to the side, but made me laugh nonetheless.
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To match the Type R front lip, I ordered the Ikon MS side skirt extensions since they had the same shape as the CTR side skirts AND the red vinyl tape strip to match, but I was pleasantly disappointed again when they arrived. Here is the advertised picture:

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When I received my own skirts, they were actually wrapped better for shipping that my bumper was, and in a box that actually fit too!

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They came mostly new with a few light scuffs here and there, but what was irritating was that it didn't have the red vinyl tape accent like it was supposed to. It's not a huge deal to me, but it's just the principle of the matter. If you're going to advertise something in such a way, it better come as such. But that's just my gripe. I've gotten a number of my exterior modifications from Ikon to which I'm appreciative they had in stock and are generally decent quality, but am beginning to question their business practices and if I should keep doing this to myself.

Anyway, the plan is to carbon fiber vinyl wrap them so they match the front lip. Probably going to go with 3M Di Noc dry carbon wrap, and also put on some 3M red vinyl tape myself because there are even notches cut into the skirts just for where the accent tape was supposed to placed, just like the front lip. (The following is not my car):
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The rear bumper from the previous post is still waiting to gather enough funds to be painted, but I'll probably carbon wrap the bottom diffuser/skirts with CF wrap and accent them red too. Might as well fulfill the whole CTR sedan look.
 
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