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Lurker_J's Burrows ('18 Si Sedan)

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lurker_j

lurker_j

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Holy crap, someone is actually buying that monster. Not gonna lie, I considered it too. Oh, and you can safely run the +9 psi map on the SI clutch.
Really though? I'm still skeptical, though I may try it for a half-day or so just to take your word for it. I already got burned by the "ah nah you don't need a camber kit if you're lowering your car" so I'm always eating massive grains of salt now. Are you running the +9 boost on the daily with no other mods (like an intercooler or down/front pipes)?

Yeahh, the rear louvers gave me such laughs that it kept it on my mental for a while and then as I would stare at the back of my car from my house, I started imagining the louvers on my car and said, "hmm maybe.."

Then I saw this:
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And then I sold myself on it and just had to see what it would like on our cars, especially if we have a nice ride height and new shoes.



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RallyeX

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I looked up the louvers on the ikon site. In the description it says "Style: NO" :rofl:
 

RallyeX

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LOL even better. We'll see if it was a waste or not. I'm just hoping they don't fly off with a gust of wind.
Would you mind posting measurements? im curious if it will fit the hatches. id be willing to guinea pig.
 

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I flashed +6 with 3000 miles, and +9 with 6000 miles. I have over 12,000 miles on the car. Since 9000 miles I have been running with sport mode enabled on startup.
 
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I flashed +6 with 3000 miles, and +9 with 6000 miles. I have over 12,000 miles on the car. Since 9000 miles I have been running with sport mode enabled on startup.
Alright, I'll try it out this weekend. I'm also not sure what they meant by your clutch won't be able to hold +9 boost, but I guess I'll have more answers after I try it out.
 

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Alright, I'll try it out this weekend. I'm also not sure what they meant by your clutch won't be able to hold +9 boost, but I guess I'll have more answers after I try it out.
A clutch not holding will result in slip. If you notice the rev's jumping while the car doesn't have a discernible amount of torque.... odds are the clutch is slipping instead of gripping the surface of the flywheel
 
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A clutch not holding will result in slip. If you notice the rev's jumping while the car doesn't have a discernible amount of torque.... odds are the clutch is slipping instead of gripping the surface of the flywheel
Am I correct to assume this would mostly occur on take-off from a dead stop, or also when shifting?
 

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Am I correct to assume this would mostly occur on take-off from a dead stop, or also when shifting?
Absolutely, pretty much any time you dramatically apply an increase in torque. Clutch upgrades are typically rated by the percentage of increased torque handling. Stock clutches are usually rated by the amount of torque they are designed or proven to hold. Excessively slipping the clutch can result in glazing on the surface which also reduces grip. Generally speaking to save a clutch from excessive wear, make power in gear, not in between.
 
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Absolutely, pretty much any time you dramatically apply an increase in torque. Clutch upgrades are typically rated by the percentage of increased torque handling. Stock clutches are usually rated by the amount of torque they are designed or proven to hold. Excessively slipping the clutch can result in glazing on the surface which also reduces grip. Generally speaking to save a clutch from excessive wear, make power in gear, not in between.
Awesome, thanks for the lesson. Worst case scenario, I just get to upgrade the clutch in the future anyway. I don't really want to get into the transmission with a car so relatively new without also doing the flywheel as well, but we've yet to see a lightweight fly
 
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So the day has finally come where the rear louvers have arrived. It is actually well made and customized to the rear sedan window for the Civic. In my post prior, you can see what the measurements are. But as you'll see in the following pictures, it actually fits snug right into the pockets of the rear window seals.

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This is all a test fitment for now as it is on-and-off thunderstorms here, but I plan on using the supplied screw points with the 3M tape backing the louvers came with.

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As funny as these louvers were to me (and still are), they have a certain charm to them that is growing on me. I plan on painting these gloss black when I get my CBP rattle cans in, then will show them again painted. The material is ABS plastic, so when you pick it up, it is pretty flexible, but it also doesn't feel like it's going to snap under harsh wind either. Here are more pics of it on the car as a test fit:

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I also wanted to add in what it looks like from the inside of the car.

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Finally got a chance to get on my new wheels, using the OEM Goodyears. I had kept the new wheels in their boxes in my car for 3 days because I didn't want to bring them in and out of the house, and it ended up making my suspension too low to get the garage lift's arms to the jack points. Even with all the weight out of the car, I had to jack up the rear just to get the car on the lift. o_O

While I was changing the tires on the wheels, I went ahead and installed SPC rear adjustable camber arms to reign in some of the camber back there. Here is the difference between the OEM control arms and the new SPC ones.

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Total amount of time taken was 2 hours from getting the car lifted to tightening the last bolt on the control arms. The thing that takes the longest is just getting the bolts in and out. There is very little hand space in there, even for someone like me with smaller hands.

There are two bolts you need to remove, both 17 mm. I would suggest having a short 17 mm socket with medium sized ratchet as well as a 17 mm wrench with a ratcheting closed end. The 17 mm wrench will be needed to get into the tiny space to get the inner most bolt.

Here is the outer bolt, pretty easy to get off. You'll need both the 17 mm socket head and wrench to hold both sides of the bolt as you wrench it off as it is a bolt and a nut.
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This is the passenger side inner bolt. You can see how little the space there is to get at it, and the driver side is even smaller with a fuel line kind of in the way. I would use the ratchet to break the bolt and then the wrench to slowly get it out.
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The camber arm is adjustable between two nuts. Mainly you use the center bigger nut to adjust the camber, but it you need more, then you start adjusting out the smaller nut. I haven't played with how much camber you can actually get because I just wanted it done and in spec, but these arms will extend pretty far out. The small nut on the left is just a locking nut for after you're done pushing the arm in or out, then you tighten it to lock everything in.
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Here is the car with new wheels on and red NRG tuner lugs. I have plastic hub centric rings coming to better fit the wheels to the hub, but I didn't think about getting them until after doing more research. This whole car is a constant learning process.

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View attachment 103623

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I get nice amount of poke now with the 9.5 width compared to the 8, and the car is more planted. Those rear camber arms are definitely needed with the D2 lowering springs if you want full utilization of your tires. I finally got my alignment mostly in spec and driving was much more fun. The car doesn't feel like it's dragging it's rear end anymore and is much quicker to respond to the boost.

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The alignment tech out here told me that in order to get that front driver side camber fixed, I'd have to take the strut out and flip it 180 degrees. That was one of the craziest things I've ever heard, so I didn't want him messing with it and just fix my rear camber and toes. Fixing the front camber is literally just shifting over strut from the top hats left or right, but it was close to closing time so he probably just wanted to get out of there.

I also don't understand why my caster keeps shifting. I know caster isn't adjustable on these cars, but sometimes it is in spec, sometimes it's not.
 
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