pinhead66
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2019
- Threads
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- 871
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- Location
- Bay Area, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Civic Si Sedan, 2018 Odyssey EX-L

First time seeing this thread and I’m enjoying all the detail. Nice work oneverything. I agree on the type r shifter with acuity bits as one of the best mods you can do. Really satisfying too if you do it yourself. Did you feel any improvements with the trunk brace similar to the strut bar?Next mod completed: putting some more junk in the trunk - Ultra Racing Trunk Brace and a Kicker 44CWCD84 sub-woofer.
Taking everything off/out to remove the rear deck is one of the worst things you have to do in this car... it just sucks. Also pretty much every video on youtube is for the coupe and the sedan is slightly different. I recommend watching one of the many coupe videos on youtube and then using these tips:
1) Remove the lower rear seat (Optional but it helps)
2) Remove the lower splash guards right inside the door near the floor
3) Drop the rear seats forward
4) Remove the weather stripping around the rear of the back doors, just pull out some to help, don't fully remove.
5) Remove bolts that hold next plastic piece. This piece is higher up from the piece you removed in step two.
6) Remove the bolts that hold the rear deck in place.
7) The tricky c pillar that is different on a sedan: Remove the highest piece of trim that runs along the rear window. Start at highest point at the rear window and pull toward the inside of the car. Work your way toward the rear going along the window. Once everything is loose near the rear of the car, the front part of the plastic must be slid out of a special clip that is supposed to stay in the car body. This is the only clip that does not come off with the pieces that are being removed. You need to pull the piece toward the front of the car to get it off this clip.
8) Last piece of plastic trim on the side of the car can now be removed.
9) Un-clip the 2 rear tweeters, they are glued into the rear deck.
10) Finally you can remove the rear deck.
11) Install is the reverse.
Other than the 4 10mm bolts (and one 10mm that holds the rear seat if you do the optional step 1) there is nothing but plastic clips that hold everything together... All this work just to replace the crappy stock sub-woofer.
I originally made a 3/4 inch mdf ring to mount the sub but that made it too tall to put the rear deck back on, so I said screw it and just literally pounded the sub into the stock hole. I spent over 2 hours making this ring that would use the stock bolts and after it was too tall (probably would have worked with 1/2 inch thick ring), I was angry and just made it work. The size of the Kicker was very close to the stock one and the metal in the rear deck is so flimsy that I was able to "massage" it in with a rubber mallet. Hopefully the vibrations of the sub dont make it rattle, but it is currently VERY solid. I tested it before putting everything back together.
The Ultra racing trunk brace was very straight forward, the only real issue is you do need to drill out one hole to make it bigger for the bolts that come with the bar. I also recommend using dental floss or fishing line to tie to the bots so you dont drop them down into hard to get places. The hardest bolt to get into the hole is this one that you drill:
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The hole that needs to be enlarged is the one with the shavings around it... the original size was just like the hole next to it (below in the pic)
Here you can see the stock sub-woofer gone and the bar installed.
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And finally all done with the carpet back and sub in... i didn't bother to trim the carpet cause its really not in the way of anything and doesn't look that bad.
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The sub is no where near the bar even though it looks like it in this pic. The front of the sub magnet is more towards the rear than the bar. There is about 1 inch of space.