Kind of fucked myself here...need help asap.

Turtle_714

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So I've had the flashpro uploaded to my car for a couple weeks now, very happy with it. Yesterday I finally got full bolt ons installed and as I should have known, the clutch won't hold at all. Constantly slips even when driving it very easy and softly. I will be ordering the ACT organic disc flywheel kit today but over the next few days I need a way to drive my car. If I return the ECU to stock while having these bolt ons, I know it would be pretty lame, I can deal with that for a few days, but will it be SAFE? that is my question. Will I be hurting my car at all if I have these mods to a stock ECU...A/F ratio etc.





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How many bolt on are we talking? Usually, bolts ons are perfectly fine to run on stock ECU's
 
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How many bolt on are we talking? Usually, bolts ons are perfectly fine to run on stock ECU's
FMIC kit with pipes, DP/FP, Catback exhaust, would probably have to take the PRL race maf intake off and put stock back on for a few days I think.
 

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FMIC kit with pipes, DP/FP, Catback exhaust, would probably have to take the PRL race maf intake off and put stock back on for a few days I think.
I think it'd be fine on a stock ECU with all that stuff. The PRL might through a code but you're not in danger of breaking anything.
 

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Turtle_714

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Also here's the thing. With those bolt ons you really should get a custom tune to put the power down smartly/safely. Base tunes are essentially for a stock setup. And if you're worried about running stock for a while, run a datalog to see where things are at.

By the way, have you done your CivicX tuning survey?

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/the-tuned-civic-x-reliability-survey-all-models.42361/
I've got the TSP Stage 1 tune but haven't uploaded it yet since I just got the PRL intake delivered today. Was not sure if this tune would be too aggressive and make it worse or if it would work better due to the torque being in a different range. (If I am correct about TSP changing torque settings)
 

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the clutch won't hold at all. Constantly slips even when driving it very easy and softly.
If you've already roasted your clutch to where it won't hold even at part throttle/easy driving, its toast. Demodding or reflashing to stock won't make it magically grab. You need to park it or drive even easier to a level that it doesn't slip. When its slipping under full pressure from the pressure plate its generating tons of heat and can explode causing severe damage and/or injuries.
 
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If you've already roasted your clutch to where it won't hold even at part throttle/easy driving, its toast. Demodding or reflashing to stock won't make it magically grab. You need to park it or drive even easier to a level that it doesn't slip. When its slipping under full pressure from the pressure plate its generating tons of heat and can explode causing severe damage and/or injuries.
Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure if it is roasted as it has not slipped even one time until yesterday after I left the shop getting these bolt ons installed. But I think i'll play it safe and overnight a clutch kit and install it over the weekend.
 

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As previously mentioned, you should really get a custom tune especially with the DP/FP. I would also remove the the Race MAF for now and go back to the stock intake and either flash back to stock or flash to TSP's stage 1 tune and stick to map 1. You are probably using a Flashpro tune that is way too aggressive and that's why your clutch is slipping. Going back to stock or TSP stage 1, the slipping will probably cease
 

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If it is glazed, sit in your driveway and try to get some normal friction on it. Like ride the clutch back and forth to get it warm and worn a little to clean up the surface.

While you wait for your new clutch assembly just baby it. Dont accelerate hard and shift before 3000-3500 RPM. I don’t see how you wouldn't be able to feather the throttle for a few days and have it hold.
 

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Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure if it is roasted as it has not slipped even one time until yesterday after I left the shop getting these bolt ons installed. But I think i'll play it safe and overnight a clutch kit and install it over the weekend.
If it just started slipping then its definitely not completely done but is probably glazed a fair bit. You'll be fine to drive on it until you get your new clutch and flywheel. Just don't over do it or itll end up looking like this. Note there was no damage to the transmission from driving on it in this condition

My buddy had to drive on it for months well after it started slipping until he was able to get his new clutch and flywheel.
Screenshot_20200514-143746_Messenger.jpg
Screenshot_20200514-143751_Messenger.jpg
 
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Turtle_714

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If it just started slipping then its definitely not completely done but is probably glazed a fair bit. You'll be fine to drive on it until you get your new clutch and flywheel. Just don't over do it or itll end up looking like this. Note there was no damage to the transmission from driving on it in this condition

My buddy had to drive on it for months well after it started slipping until he was able to get his new clutch and flywheel.
Screenshot_20200514-143746_Messenger.jpg
Screenshot_20200514-143751_Messenger.jpg
Ok cool, I think i'll just play it safe and park it over the weekend and get this clutch kit overnighted, hopefully get it installed Sunday. But if I do have to drive it, i'll definitely keep it under 3K rpm.
 

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If you have a catless DP then it will prob throw a code without a tune on it that disables the O2. Race MAF will throw it too without a tune. If you're going to park it until you get a clutch then you should be ok but should get a custom tune with all those parts as there are no out of the box ones.
 

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As previously mentioned, you should really get a custom tune especially with the DP/FP. I would also remove the the Race MAF for now and go back to the stock intake and either flash back to stock or flash to TSP's stage 1 tune and stick to map 1. You are probably using a Flashpro tune that is way too aggressive and that's why your clutch is slipping. Going back to stock or TSP stage 1, the slipping will probably cease
One thing to keep in mind is that (IIRC) the Hondata version of TSP 1 only has the single high powered map (no on the fly map switching like KTuner).
 

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Ok cool, I think i'll just play it safe and park it over the weekend and get this clutch kit overnighted, hopefully get it installed Sunday. But if I do have to drive it, i'll definitely keep it under 3K rpm.
I don't know about SoCal, but here in NorCal I can't get anything shipped less than a week. I ordered F Sport Sway bars for my IS350 from a Sacramento dealership a week ago and it still hasn't arrived (it's in stock). I have a few other stuff I ordered with 2 day shipping that 2 weeks later still haven't arrived
 

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