Kicker Key amp for 20 si premium audio

SiLee207

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I’m looking to improve this sound system. Having a subwoofer installed later this week, upgrading all the 6.5 inch and tweeters.
I heard the kicker Key amp recommended for it’s auto tuning capability, and better quality DSP.
Does anyone used these for an install?
I believe this system has 10 separate channels, would I need two amps to achieve eight channels, for eight speakers?
Or just run each door as one channel, if so would that be enough power?
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DOZOIR

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I’m looking to improve this sound system. Having a subwoofer installed later this week, upgrading all the 6.5 inch and tweeters.
I heard the kicker Key amp recommended for it’s auto tuning capability, and better quality DSP.
Does anyone used these for an install?
I believe this system has 10 separate channels, would I need two amps to achieve eight channels, for eight speakers?
Or just run each door as one channel, if so would that be enough power?
I am curious to know if you went ahead and used the Kicker Key amp. if so, any thoughts? Thanks.
 

SATX_Si

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ebatr24,
Do you have any pics of your Kicker Key install, and what is feeding it's inputs? Factory amp or another device? I'm thinking about installing one as well.

Thanks,
Matt
 

ebatr24

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Tapping in at the factory amp, running wiring from the passenger kick panel to under the seat. I haven't bothered taking pictures of it.
 


DOZOIR

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I use it, works great.
Thanks for the feedback
Tapping in at the factory amp, running wiring from the passenger kick panel to under the seat. I haven't bothered taking pictures of it.
Did you have to use a line-out converter to retain your head unit fader control?
 

ebatr24

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Thanks for the feedback

Did you have to use a line-out converter to retain your head unit fader control?
Confused as to why you would need a LOC to retain fader control? I run an Audio Control LC7i, but not for fader control I used it to sum the signals from the door speakers and sub so that I would get full range sound for my subwoofer as I didn't like the bass roll off of the just the sub output.

My fader works though btw, no LOC needed for that
 

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I wonder if that question is related to some of my posts- I'm not using the rear channels at all for input, mirroring the front channels to the rear speakers because I didn't like the relatively muted factory output.
 

ebatr24

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I wonder if that question is related to some of my posts- I'm not using the rear channels at all for input, mirroring the front channels to the rear speakers because I didn't like the relatively muted factory output.
That's a good way to do it for more volume in the rear. I just ran my Kicker amp to the front sound stage, didn't see a need in getting more out of the rear since I'm never in the rear of my own car. I'd be interested to hear the difference but just powering the front JL audio speakers I installed the sound is really quite good already.
 

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I wonder if that question is related to some of my posts- I'm not using the rear channels at all for input, mirroring the front channels to the rear speakers because I didn't like the relatively muted factory output.
Thanks for chiming in.

In my '20 Si Coupe, my goal is to add an aftermarket amp to my aftermarket door component speakers. I would like to leave the rest of the factory speakers running on the factory amp. (I have a powered sub taping the factory sub wire).
 


DOZOIR

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That's a good way to do it for more volume in the rear. I just ran my Kicker amp to the front sound stage, didn't see a need in getting more out of the rear since I'm never in the rear of my own car. I'd be interested to hear the difference but just powering the front JL audio speakers I installed the sound is really quite good already.
Did you use a Line out converter?
 

SATX_Si

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ebatr24,
Is your center speaker still running off the factory amp, or did you sum it in with the other channels? Just curious if/how you are getting the nav voice.
I'm pondering the Metra AXXESS DSP purely for the line outs, but an LC7i tapping front tweets/front doors/sub signals, summing them, then feeding a Key 200.4 and 500.1 for active fronts and sub while retaining factory amp for rear and center is a bit more appealing to me if that's possible.
 

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I heard the kicker Key amp recommended for it’s auto tuning capability, and better quality DSP.
Does anyone used these for an install?
I installed a kicker key off my factory head unit for the door speakers and then put in a separate amp and sub-woofer in my EXL hatch.
The DSP in the Kicker makes a world of difference IMO. It sounds so much better and the amp added the much needed power for my new door speakers also. A worthy upgrade for sure.
 

ebatr24

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ebatr24,
Is your center speaker still running off the factory amp, or did you sum it in with the other channels? Just curious if/how you are getting the nav voice.
I'm pondering the Metra AXXESS DSP purely for the line outs, but an LC7i tapping front tweets/front doors/sub signals, summing them, then feeding a Key 200.4 and 500.1 for active fronts and sub while retaining factory amp for rear and center is a bit more appealing to me if that's possible.
I left the middle speaker alone so it still runs off the stock amp. Heard people have problems with phone call echos and what not so I didn't both touching it. It still has a JL C2 hooked up for the center speaker but you don't hear it much in my opinion
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