K20c2 mods?

[Yami-Lee555]

Well, best of luck dude. They may not be anything special but they still run a 0-60 2 whole seconds faster than your civic. Best launch the fuck out of that little car.

It's Gunna be a roll race. Lol. My ranger launches harder then thosemustangs though. I won so many stop light races by them giving up cus I'd launch 3 cars on them. ????

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[CruzK20]

What do you mean by lowering the hood? Mine wobbles on the highway too.

check my post about it HERE

it’s a very simple mod and it reduces the hood wobble significantly

 

[jXian]

check my post about it HERE

it’s a very simple mod and it reduces the hood wobble significantly

Doing this tomorrow, amazing idea.

 

[civil-k-2020]

More research needs to be done on the boost capabilities of the C2. It's a little early to be knocking it as incapable, so to speak. It's not constructive to tell someone to change platforms, I'd say try what you can and share with the community. The one guy who did boost doesn't post anymore because he was trolled to hell by people with 1.5ts. A lot of toxic ego bs. IMO Both the 1.5 and 2.0 are solid engines. The 1.5 is ready to go with a good tune. Currently the 2.0 will require a bit of custom fab and clever tuning, which is cool if you are down with that. Zen y'all. Let people do what they with their own stuff. It's not all about having the fastest car or buying the right model. If you wanted the fastest car you should have saved up for a Tesla lol

 

[Yami-Lee555]

More research needs to be done on the boost capabilities of the C2. It's a little early to be knocking it as incapable, so to speak. It's not constructive to tell someone to change platforms, I'd say try what you can and share with the community. The one guy who did boost doesn't post anymore because he was trolled to hell by people with 1.5ts. A lot of toxic ego bs. IMO Both the 1.5 and 2.0 are solid engines. The 1.5 is ready to go with a good tune. Currently the 2.0 will require a bit of custom fab and clever tuning, which is cool if you are down with that. Zen y'all. Let people do what they with their own stuff. It's not all about having the fastest car or buying the right model. If you wanted the fastest car you should have saved up for a Tesla lol

Sheee bro your right. Let people do what they want. I keep up with my buddy's stockish si now. With tuning intake exhaust and a few other small mods. I chose the na motor to be different. Plus with how mechanically inclined I am I can make it faster. And I like the sound more then the 1.5

 

[CruzK20]

The one guy who did boost doesn't post anymore because he was trolled to hell by people with 1.5ts.

I know him personally, his C2 is still boosted and still running fine. The engine has a lot of potential it’s just a very expensive route to take, that’s why everyone clowned him and everyone that wants to boost it.

 

[Civic_rob]

I know him personally, his C2 is still boosted and still running fine. The engine has a lot of potential it’s just a very expensive route to take, that’s why everyone clowned him and everyone that wants to boost it.

He wasn't exactly forthcoming with some of the answers he provided and did try to act knowledgeable about much of the engine architecture which was either a guess or flat out wrong.

However, I respect him for comitting and actually doing something like this. Most people talk about oh I'm going to supercharge, or turbo, or build, blah blah blah and never actually do shit.

I've reviewed compare/contrast style with much of the K20C1 (Type R) and the K20C2 (Base NA) in terms of part numbers; architectural changes and why they're so critical (not all of them are).

Some of the builtin benefits of the K20C2 since it's related to the K20C1:

1. Shares the same block excluding some oil cooling passageways. A machine shop & an experienced mechanic may be able to remedy this but I'm not certain.
2. Integrated 'Headifold' design which improves turbo efficiency and spool time.
3. Very similar rods, identical crankshaft, but different pistons with a compression ratio of 10:8 for the NA Base K20C2 and 9:8 for the Type R.
4. i-VTEC but on opposite cams. With a turbo there's no need for VTEC on the intake side (For the Type R) since the turbo's adding the extra air.

That's really it in terms of similarities I've found. Here's some of that information laid out with the actual technical diagrams added for visual reference.

Some of the biggest issues that even the Type R has is cooling. The C2 has a noticeable deficit in that department without those extra cooling galleries, the liquid-liquid transfer plate engine oil cooler (probably just run an external one and be fine at the expense of a few PSI of pressure loss), and of course the apparent ECU lockout/incompatibility.

You can tune it to run off of wastegate but at that point it's A. not tuned to take full advantage of the turbo setup, B. probably throwing all sorts of error codes which is affecting other systems on the car since everything nowadays in cars is a system on another system, and C probably only be making 230-240hp on a cold day?

The K20C2 is most closely related to the K24W since most of the technology seems identical. The cam profiles are the same with i-vtec on the intake, the intergrated exhaust 'headifold', the intake manifold setup (the K24W fits on the K20C2 with some massaging btw), and a couple other things I'm forgetting.

It reminds me of the RSX's. You had the base modal K20 and then you have the coveted K20A2 in the Type S which has one of the best flowing heads Honda has ever put out. I'm not saying the K20C2 or K20C1 head sucks at flowing (but it actually does), but it's the base model engine versus the logical engine to build and that would be the K20A2 so the K20C1 from the Type R.

As a result of all the research and hurdles I'd have to have planned and worked out (not to mention the amount of money for a legit turbo kit), I've decided on a wet nitrous injection system. The only worry I have is the intake manifold taking the extra pressure but I guess we'll see how it holds up. I don't have too much worry that the K20C2 will be annihilated with a small 35-50 shot as long as the rpm is in the ideal range with something like a window + WOT Switch which is what I'm running. The CVT isn't going to be thrilled but that's where the window switch comes into play eliminating a full spray at WOT when I'm at something like 2000rpm which would certainly piss off the CVT and possibly break it.

In regards to everyone saying "Bro just trade it in. No point in building it." And everything similar I've been told time and time again by people who parrot what everyone else says, I will be able to say hey I've actually done my research, put the time, money, and effort in to reach the goals I set forth without just "trading it in for more power". I've literally followed the built not bought mentality since I've started on this car. I've fucked a lot of things up on the car no doubt (see my post about my coilover install/front sway bar end links) but I've also learned so much more about this engine and platform than someone who just trades in the 2.slow for a 1.5T. Besides, the L15B motors are garbage. Most reputable tuners I know won't even touch them anymore because of their oil cooling issues, head gasket issues (what is this a Subaru?) regardless of headstuds used, and a slew of other silly things that could have been solved with a better engineered motor. I'm not saying the K20C2 or C1 is a modern marvel but at least the cooling issue can be rectified with a bigger radiator, external oil cooler, turbo blanket, etc where the L15B's solution would be to throw the whole motor away and get a better one.

These are just my opinions though so feel free to disagree or even talk bad on my build. It doesn't bother me. Here are some pics to hopefully establish a little credibility so it doesn't look like I'm talking out of my ass.

Cheers,

-Rob