K20C1 Modding & Tuning Megathread: A list of every FK8 Type R aftermarket part and what to expect

What horsepower level are you at?


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kefi

oh shit waddup its dat boi
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If I've got anything wrong in here or I'm missing something you think should be mentioned, please let me know! The knowledge we have on the FK8 is constantly changing. :grouphug:




It's been 2.5 years since the FK8 was first released, and we've come a long way. We've got multiple tuning solutions (including standalone ECUs!), several manufacturers for every part imaginable, turbo kits, sequential transmissions, and even full engine rebuilds. There isn't much you can find in your FK8 that doesn't have an aftermarket version, not to mention the straight up new additions that have been engineered like air oil coolers.

At the same time, we're only just now finding out what our little roll monsters can really do because the fuel system limitations are only just now being solved.

This car has been amazingly fun to own and learn about. It's really a fascinating and unique piece of engineering once you get to know it inside and out and I just wanted to share everything there is to know in one place.

The FK8 ECU is a different beast
There's many things that could be said about the FK8. From it's aerodynamically functional and ridiculously stiff body to it's novel front suspension that completely eliminates oversteer, it can't just be called an overstyled Si. Honda really went all out on this car and made something that stands out, far.

The ridiculously smart Bosch MED17.9.3 ECU it has is one of it's most important features. It's nothing like any other Honda ECU, more like older VWs, and dynamically takes into account many different sensors and protection mechanisms to make as much safe power as possible in any environmental condition. It's commonly said to think of an engine as an air pump, but it's even more true in the case of the FK8 as most of the tune tables are actually based on how much air is in the cylinder.

The calculations start at 'how much torque should I make for this much pedal in this gear and drive mode' and how much air charge (actual air in cylinder) would theoretically make that much torque with a built-in mathematical model of the engine. It then calculates everything else like ignition and boost from that number, while taking into account various temperature and atmospheric pressure compensation tables. There's not really any bolt-on mods you can add that would cause a detriment to the engine or significant loss of power just because you didn't tune it, it'll figure it out.

It's not quite a MoTeC ECU, but it definitely gets the job done and is much more involved than a traditional ECU.

What's the current power potential/limit of the K20C1?
Ah, that's the fun part. We haven't really found it yet, and in the last few months alone we've seen certain manufacturers unlock massively higher numbers.

The real limit to most of us that we know well is the high pressure DI fuel pump. It doesn't take much to hit 100% duty on the fuel pump with the airflow we already push from factory. Adding mods that increase airflow (i.e. the majority of them) doesn't have a huge effect because of this. We hit ~400hp pretty early on around early 2018 once KTuner and Hondata released their tuning solutions. The fuel pump is such a problem that Hondata even implemented a custom fuel pump duty limit, as hitting 100% causes a fuel pressure drop and eventually a limp state.

However, manufacturers have finally started to resolve the issue. Hondata and 4Piston literally just came out with their own custom high pressure fuel pump and injectors, Full Race released a full aftermarket turbo kit. PRL Motorsports is working on a drop-in turbocharger upgrade that will be compatible with all the existing downpipes and intakes and Rampage has already released one. Luke from 4piston just a few weeks ago made over 600hp with race fuel and their upgraded fuel system.

So, that brings us to the obvious question: can we safely run that much power? The honest answer is that nobody really knows yet and it depends on what you're doing with it. We don't have enough documented failures. There's this magical '400lbft' number that is widely considered the limit and anything above that is sure to bend a connecting rod, but there's actually no proof or even more than a couple documented instances of that. It seems to have originated from VitViper (a very respected tuner) saying he bent a rod at that level on his dyno using MoTeC back when there were no aftermarket parts and we just began jailbreaking the stock ECU. Once the fuel situation was figured out, we've had people sitting around and past 400 with no issue.

The 400lbft number has been echo chambered in the Facebook groups and this forum ever since, despite Hondata themselves claiming to have dailied their car at 450 and now 480 lbft with their upgraded fuel system for over a year. PRL has also been pushing 425 and beyond with their turbocharger prototypes. As far as I've seen, no street-use or casual track-use connecting rod failures have been publicly documented as of yet, almost all of the talk with bent rods surrounds race teams pushing these engines to the absolute limit or somebody laying on the antilag for too long. Has it happened? Probably. No doubt we're putting stress on the OEM parts. But it seems to be at best extremely rare with the power levels the majority of people are running right now.

We also don't really know the boost pressure limits of anything either, other than that the stock turbo doesn't make more power past about 27psi. We're only just now slapping bigger turbos on the engine - it's not that simple due to the fact that it bolts right onto the side of our engine and has an ECU-controlled wastegate actuator.

That being said, we already have multiple options available for connecting rods and pistons, as well as a fully built engine from 4Piston. I believe we'll be finding out the limits of the stock block and head pretty quickly with all the upgrades coming out this year.

What's the biggest problems so far?
Transmission grinds/lockouts and the OEM tires barely lasting 10k miles are two of the major complaints, but the biggest one is cooling, or lack thereof.

For whatever reason, despite all of Honda's other instances of ingenuity when it came to the Type R, we've got a puny, flimsy intercooler and overall insufficient airflow under the hood. In any mildly warm climate, you're going to be seeing major power loss from heat soak in anything but smooth highway cruising. If you're planning on tracking the car, the oil and water temperatures also quickly become a concern, throwing the car into limp mode after only a few laps. You'll need an upgraded/additional radiator and an additional oil cooler as well.

Other than that though, there aren't really any widespread problems. Honda really made a beautiful machine here.

What mods should I get?
It depends what kind of power level you want. This car comes simply amazing straight from the factory and can make most men and women happy as is. It's a great sports car for both the family and the speed racer. You can easily and safely get to 350-400hp/tq with a couple items, but getting to 450hp and especially 500hp and beyond will require much more modification and obviously money. Many of the mods for getting to those higher power levels are only just now being released. There's a wide range of power levels you can choose from now.

However, even if you didn't plan on increasing power or tuning the car at all, I would strongly recommend every Type R owner at a minimum getting an upgraded intercooler. The ECU pulls power for temperature more than anything else, starting as early as 100F/40C. You WILL feel the difference. If you live in an even mildly warm climate, with the stock intercooler you will heat soak. Even upgraded intercoolers are susceptible to this - we haven't really fully solved the heat issue yet.

The only thing you're changing by installing an aftermarket intercooler is the longevity of the power you already have. and maybe spooling a little faster. It doesn't require a tune (although a tune definitely increases the benefits), and it shouldn't violate any warranties or cause problems with emissions laws. All you have to do for most intercoolers is pop off the front bumper and loosen a few bolts that are all front and center for you to remove, no lift or jack required.

What to expect
Note that these are ballpark estimates from what I've seen on average from the various dyno charts and blog posts that are available from manufacturers and end users. Not gonna account for 100+ octane or port/methanol injection here but those are also valid routes.

FBOs would be downpipe ($400), catback exhaust (~$1500), intercooler (~$600), intake ($400), and inlet pipe ($500) for a total of $2900. Custom tune is $500 on top of the $700 for the tuning hardware/OTS tune. Flex fuel kit is $500. Upgraded turbo is about $2000, upgraded fuel system about $3000.

You don't need full bolt ons unless you want every last drop of power. Without an upgraded turbo or fuel system, you can't use the extra airflow these parts would provide. An intercooler, tune and a high-flow downpipe will make a significantly larger difference than the rest.

Stock: ~290-310hp (officially 306)
1. FBOs and no tune: ~330hp ~$2900
2. OTS Tune only: ~330-350hp $700
3. FBOs and OTS tune: ~350-380hp ~$3600
4. FBOs and custom tune: ~370-400hp ~$4100
5. Flex fuel kit, OTS tune, no bolt ons: ~380-400hp ~$1200
6. Flex fuel kit, OTS tune, FBOs: ~400-420hp ~$4100
7. Upgraded turbo, full bolt ons, custom tune: 400-450hp, ~$6100
8. Upgraded fuel system, full bolt ons, custom tune: 425hp-500hp $7100
9. Upgraded fuel system, upgraded turbo, full bolt ons, custom tune: 500hp and beyond, $9000+ and that's before you get into the inevitable engine rebuild

You'll notice that a tune alone is a much better deal than full bolt ons without a tune. Additionally, flex fuel without any bolt ons will get you almost as far as flex fuel with bolt ons. Off the shelf flex fuel by itself is the best deal. Getting past the 400 mark will set you back at least $4000, and going past 500 (on pump gas) is gonna require combining a custom map, turbo, full bolt ons, and upgraded fuel system for at least $9000.

As of right now, you can drive a pump-gas FBO 400hp Type R for around $40,000 and 500hp for around $45,000-$50,000 depending on if you build the engine, not accounting for shop labor and cases of beer for friends.


The most effective mods:
1. Intercooler to keep power for longer. Stock is drastically insufficient.
2. Hondata/KTuner off the shelf tune. Increases power safely primarily through increased boost and allows more gains from further mods through additional maps. Hondata also comes with traction control.
3. Downpipe (high flow or catless) to allow more airflow and thus more power. The cat is the main restriction in airflow.
4. Flex fuel to advance ignition timing and lower EGTs. Race fuel (100+ octane) also has OTS tunes available for major gains but is not nearly as accessible/economic.

Pushing actual horsepower/torque much further with other mods will require an upgraded fuel system and/or turbo. A front pipe, exhaust and intake system won't net you very much more power (maybe 10-20hp on the top end) as you'll already be hitting 100% fuel pump duty with the airflow you already have. Ethanol's potential is also limited due to being especially taxing on the fuel pump as it requires significantly more volume for the same power. There are gains to be had, but the increased airflow isn't as useful until you can push more fuel too. The gains are mostly in IAT reduction, which allow for higher power levels for longer in warmer conditions. It also makes the turbo sound wicked. :headbang:

So, get an exhaust and intake and turbo inlet pipe if you want. You'll get some power gains from it and some great sounds - just know that the potential is mostly limited at this point until you resolve your fuel situation. If you're happy being around 380hp, don't even worry about the fuel system.

Other common mods

Upgrading your intercooler charge pipes isn't a bad idea, they have been shown to expand due to being single-ply rubber and can ultimately fail during intense track sessions.

If you're planning on tracking your FK8, you should definitely look at upgrading your radiator and getting an additional oil cooler. We have major heat problems and ending up in limp mode after only a few laps is common on the stock cooling system.

An extremely easy mod that can help increase the life of your engine is a PCV oil catch can to prevent oil from going back into your intake and on your valves.

Many of us (including myself) have removed the clutch delay valve (CDV) from the slave clutch cylinder. It essentially delays your clutch pedal's actions so you don't shock the driveline and is present in the Si and Sport as well.. but it really shouldn't be in the Type R. It causes a slightly less precise shifting experience and may be why you feel like you suddenly can't drive a manual anymore. Tutorial here.

Some owners also report greatly improved shifting after replacing their transmission fluid with Amsoil Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid and other comparable brands.

Upgrading your clutch is also an obvious one. We don't have official specs on how much torque the OEM clutch can handle. According to JLORacing, SPEC was using his car for development and tested the stock clutch to be rated around 340lbft, but others have been running well past that power without a ton of issue.

A mod you probably shouldn't get (but isn't necessarily going to be damaging to your car) is a blowoff valve that vents to atmosphere. Remember how I said our engine's calculations are almost entirely based around the amount of air in the cylinder? That measurement is completely useless once you've got a VTA BOV. You will end up running rich every time it lets out air. If you're looking for sounds over performance, go for it. Otherwise, just stick to the built in wastegate and get an aftermarket intake for the sounds.

Finding a tuner/self-tuning
This is honestly probably the hardest part of the equation at this point. While most of the principles of a direct injected engine remain the same, our ECU does a lot of stuff differently and the approach for tuning them is different from Hondas of olde - apparently more akin to German ECUs. Hell, we're still finding new tables and disables in the ECU that were mysteriously holding us back (i.e. boost being limited by exhaust gas temps aka EGT reduction). We don't have knock count, either - only knock retard levels.

So, choose wisely. Don't just go to somebody because they've successfully tuned a couple 10th gen Si before - find someone who actually understands EFI tuning as a whole and is going to look into what makes tuning the Type R different. Almost all the tables are different.

There aren't many remote tuners at this point, and the only one I can find online that does custom jobs and not just an off the shelf file is Derek Robinson from Innovative Motorworks. He notably developed the basemaps for KTuner, but does Hondata work as well. If you guys have suggestions for this I'll make a list here as well.

It's not entirely hard to learn how to make minor changes yourself, either. The main change most of us make ourselves is limiting the air charge limits where we see that the fuel pump is hitting 100%, as this varies wildly with what parts you put on the K20C1.

I posted later in this thread comparing all the basemaps as of March 2020.

Hondata's tuning notes
Hondata on EGT reduction
Hondata on the fuel pump

That being said, the basemaps provided by Hondata and KTuner are fantastic. There are maps for various combinations of fuels and parts. They all are free and come with the software, and all do a good enough job until you can find a proper tuner.

Final note: do the pedal dance before dynoing
A lot of you are possibly gonna run into a scary time the first time you strap on your Type R to the dyno if you don't do this. Unfortunately, holding down the VSA button is not sufficient enough for the dyno. You have to do the pedal dance, otherwise the VSA sensors are very possibly going to freak out when the wheels have significantly different speeds and put your whole car into a broken state where, among other things, turning off the car requires multiple presses and the electronic parking brake doesn't work. No, seriously. You won't be able to park your car. You have to drive around for an unknown amount of miles/minutes to clear this issue.. sometimes up to half an hour and 30 miles, which means your rented dyno hour is now wasted and again, you can't park your car.

Other stability-related safety features are likely disabled while you have to drive around to clear this error. Leaving it in the driveway won't fix it.

You will be forced into sport mode when VSA is disabled with the pedal dance, so make sure your tune isn't multi-stage and if it is, swap the tables around for the dyno.


The telltale sign to know if you're ready to go is if the VSA OFF light is rapidly blinking.

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Long version:
1. Turn on car
2. Ensure you are in sport mode
3. Engage parking brake if it is not already
4. Press and hold brake pedal through steps 5-8
5. Release parking brake
6. Press VSA button for two seconds until disable light turns on
7. Press VSA button for two seconds until disable light turns off
8. Engage parking brake
9. Release brake pedal
10. Repeat steps 6-7 (this time without holding brake pedal)
11. Press and hold brake pedal
12. Repeat steps 6-7 (holding brake pedal again this time)
13. If the VSA disabled light is illuminated with 'OFF' blinking (specifically BLINKING, not solid) next to it, you're good to go. If car has to restart or is reflashed, repeat procedure.

Shorter version:
1. Push brake pedal, disengage parking. Cycle VSA.
2. Engage parking, release brake pedal. Cycle VSA.
3. Push brake pedal. Cycle VSA.

Available Mods

Being that there's so many different options for everything now, I took the time to compile a list of everything I could find that is currently available for the Type R since there isn't really one place that lists/sells everything. If I missed something, please let me know. Pricing may be lower or higher depending on what sales are going on at certain retailers. Lots of these things are sold in bundles.

Note that I don't list HP or TQ figures. Fact of the matter is, dynoing the Type R consistently is hella difficult because of how many things can temporarily reduce power output, many of which were only discovered long after these parts were manufactured. Take every dyno chart with a grain of salt. There honest to god isn't much difference from manufacturer to manufacturer except in heat soak which for the most part affects power longevity rather than peak output. We simply don't have enough reliable, third party dyno data to be making choices based on power output comparisons.

Tuning Solutions

Factory ECU Flash
This method uses your factory ECU, but with custom software. This is the most popular method and the most recommended. If you put parts on your car and want it to actually make power, you'll need to do this.

This requires you to first jailbreak your ECU. It originally required removing and shipping your ECU to Hondata or KTuner, but it can now be done with a FlashPro at home without ever removing it from the car. KTuner can be used on a Hondata-jailbroken ECU, and vice versa. KTuner does not have an at-home jailbreaking solution at this time.

Hondata FlashPro - $695 / Remote Unlock $200
Most popular right now. Ignition-based stability control, full throttle shift and antilag. Includes several basemaps for E25, 91, 93, 100 octane fuels as well as flex fuel support.

KTuner - V1.2 $450 / V2 $650 / Mail-In Unlock $250
V2 has a touchscreen which is very nice. As of right now they don't have as many features/disables, but they just got some new maps. Has several excellent basemaps all made by Derek Robinson from Innovative Motorworks.

Piggybacks
Note that I would personally not recommend these. They do work and they aren't known to cause damage, but the basic idea for all of them is simply intercepting the boost signal and tricking the ECU into thinking it hasn't reached the boost target yet. The FK8 ECU is much smarter than the ECUs of olde that these products were made popular on, relying heavily on all kinds of sensor data. We tune almost everything based on how much air is in the cylinder. So, logically, this isn't the best way to make power.

JB4 Burger Tuning Piggyback - $400
Note: Burger Tuning is apparently quite reputable. This product is still in beta. Discussion thread

aFe Scorcher GT Piggyback - $500

HKS Power Editor - $332

Standalone Kits
These entirely replace your ECU with a custom harness that hooks up into the standalone ECU. No cutting or splicing required, but they are very expensive. You can accomplish things on these platforms that simply aren't possible with the factory ECU.

MoTeC M142 - $6300 :eek:
Developed by VitViper himself before he went to work for them.

Syvecs S7 Plus - $4500

Intakes
I recommend steering away from the open airbox styled intakes. They will cause MAJOR IAT increases at the MAF sensor - which the ECU has a dedicated table for reducing power for. None of these should require a tune except for the Eventuri.

PRL Motorsports Stage 1 Intake - $130
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Injen Short Ram Intake - $330 - Not recommended, open box
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Injen Evolution Cold Air Intake - $340
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AEM CAI - $350 - Not recommended, open box
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HPS Cold Air Intake
- $375 - Not recommended, open box

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PRL Motorsports High Volume Intake - $400
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Mishimoto Performance Air Intake - $400

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aFe Takeda Momentum CAI - $425
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GruppeM Ram Air System - $1260
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Eventuri Carbon Intake - $1500
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HKS Cold Air Intake System - $1530
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Downpipes/Frontpipes
Note that most exhaust systems sold for the Type R include a front pipe. Many of these downpipe/frontpipes from the same manufacturer are sold together for about $50-$100 cheaper.

Catless Downpipes
Power Rev Racing - $300
Scorpion - $320
Invidia - $325
United Speed Racing - $350 (Downpipe blanket $250)
Function Werk - $350
RV6 - $389
PRL Motorsports - $400
Milltek - $410
aFe - $560
Dream Automotive - $580
Ultimate Racing - $580

High Flow Catted Downpipes
Function Werk - $450
RV6 - $529
PRL Motorsports - $530
Scorpion - $643
Invidia - $650
Ultimate Racing - $730
aFe - $835
Milltek - $1200
Dream Automotive - $1800

Frontpipes
Remark (Non-Resonated) - $223
Remark (Resonated) - $318
Invidia - $250
GReddy - $285
Function Werk - $350
RV6 - $350
PRL Motorsports - $400
Remus - $400
aFe - $472
APEX'i GT - $483

Downpipe & Frontpipe (standalones are unavailable)
Blox Racing (Catless) - $450
K-Tuned (Catless) - $700
HKS (Catless) - $700
ArmyTrix (Catless) - Regular $790 - Ceramic Coated $1080

Intercoolers/Charge Pipes
With Charge Pipes Included
GReddy 28E - $660
GReddy 24E- $755
HKS - $836 - Note that this is a tube & fin intercooler instead of bar & plate
Wagner Tuning - $890
Ultimate Racing - $950
Mishimoto - $1050
Full Race - $1100

Without Charge Pipes Included
27WON - In development
Forge Motorsport - $583
Injen - $592
HKS - $616
Perrin - $642
PRL Motorsports - $650
Dream Automotive - $930

Standalone Charge Pipes
27WON - $142
HKS - $265
PRL Motorsports - $300
aFe - $356

Turbocharger Inlet Pipes
PRL Motorsports - $500
TurboInletCrossoverPipeCastSideAngle.jpg

Rampage Fabrications - $950


Exhaust Systems
Several of these come with different tips/finishes/sound controller options. We definitely have no shortage of options here.

No frontpipe (Axleback)
Remark Spec I Axleback Exhaust - Single tip - $460

Optional frontpipe
REMUS Innovation - 3 tip - 5 tip options - $1591 - $2131 ($400 frontpipe, $600 sound controller)
Martelius - 3 tip - $1450 ($465 frontpipe)

Includes frontpipe (Catback)
GReddy - 2 tip - $665
Remark Spec I Catback Exhaust - Single tip - 5 tip options - $755 - $802
MXP Comp RS - 2 tip - $870
Ultimate Racing Track Edition - 3 tip - three tip options - $795
Ultimate Racing Street Edition - 3 tip - two tip options $895 - $1025
Ultimate Racing Ultra Quiet Street Edition - 3 tip - three tip options - $1045 - $1175
Invidia Q300 - 3 tip - $1044
Invidia Gemini R400 w/ Titanium Tips - 3 tip - $1135
Remark Spec III Catback Exhaust - $1135
AWE Exhaust Suite - 3 tip - Two editions, two tip options $1085 - $1242
Thermal R&D - 3 tip - $1170
Injen - 2 tip - $1243
Tomei - 1 or 2 tip - $1251 - $1341
HKS Legamax - 2 tip - $1300
HKS Hi-Power SPEC-L - 2 tip - $1300
Hooker BlackHeart - 3 tip - $1400
MillTek - 3 tip - 5 tip options, with/without front/rear silencers $1459 - $2339
ARK Performance DTS Exhaust - 3 tip - $1484
GReddy Supreme SP (HG) - 3 tip - $1500
aFe Takeda - 3 tip - Two tip options - $1532 - $1608
Scorpion - 3 tip - $1550 - $1675
Perrin - 2 tip - Resonated and non-resonated $1600
Borla - 3 tip - $1683
27WON - 3 tip - $1692
K-Tuned - 3 tip - $1800
Magnaflow SYS - 3 tip - $1850
T1R Power - 3 tip - $1870
APEX'i Evolution-X - 2 tip - $1900
Tubi Style - 3 tip - $1920
Boost Logic Titanium Exhaust - 3 tip - Two finishes, two tip options - $2000 - $2500
J's Racing Stainless Racing Exhaust - 2 tip - $2095
Frequency Intelligent w/ Valvetronic - 3 tip -$2500
Sequence Manufacturing Titanium Exhaust - 3 tip - $2800
Spoon Sports N1 Muffler Kit - 2 tip - $2835
Rampage Titanium - 3 tip - $3150
Fujitsubo Titanium Exhaust - 2 tip - $3275
Amuse R1 Titanium Exhaust - 2 tip - $4895 - $5445
J's Racing Titanium Racing Exhaust - 2 tip - $5100

Includes downpipe (Turboback)
Graham Rahal Performance - 3 tip - $2895 (Downpipe blanket $395)
Armytrix Valvetronic - 3 tip - 3 tip options - $3300 - $3816 (Downpipe $1400-$1694)

Catch Cans
Radium Engineering - $200 PCV, $260 CCV, $450 both
Mishimoto PCV - $200
Boomba Racing PCV - $200
JLT PCV - $150

Radiators, Tanks & Hoses
Primary Radiator
Koyo - $340
Full Race - $500
Dream Automotive - $645
Spoon Sports - $1500

Secondary Radiator
Mishimoto - $465

Tanks
Mishimoto - $254 - red, black
Radium Engineering - $310 - black

Radiator Hoses
Power Rev Racing - $90 - red, black
Torque Solution - $90 - red, black, blue
Nubis - $129 - red
Mishimoto - $132 - red, black, blue, gloss black
Forge Motorsport - $163 - red, black
J's Racing - $200 - red

Oil Coolers
Front Mount
United Speed Racing - $700

Side Mount
Mishimoto - $600
GReddy - $655
United Speed Racing - $800
HKS - $855

Turbo/Inlet Pipe Blankets
United Speed Racing Turbo Blanket - $165
PTP Turbo Blanket - $180
PTP Inlet Pipe Blanket - $240 (this will not fit aftermarket inlet pipes!)

Clutches/Flywheels
Single Disk
SPEC Stage 1 $600 / Stage 2 $695 / Stage 2+ $699 / Stage 3 $599 / Stage 3+ $775 / Stage 4 $599 / Stage 5 $779
Clutch Masters - $540 - $625
ACT - $1000 - $1100
Xtreme Clutch - $1624 - $2486
ATS - $1860

Twin Disk
Clutch Masters - $1440
Xtreme Clutch - $1806 - $2618

Standalone Flywheel
Clutchmasters Aluminum Single Mass - $472

Turbochargers & Kits
PRL Motorsports Drop-In Turbo Upgrade - TBA (brand new design)
Rampage RS450 Drop-In Turbo Upgrade - $1850 (upgraded core)
Full Race V-Band Turbo Kit - EFR 6758 $4340 / EFR 7163 $4500
Ultimate Racing G25-660 Turbo Kit - $4900 - $5559
Rampage G25-550 Turbo Kit - $5600 - $6455
Rampage G25-660 Turbo Kit - $5500 - $6600

Fuel System
Flex fuel
SiriMoto Flex Fuel Kit - $480
PRL Motorsports Flex Fuel Kit - $500

Direct Injection
4Piston High Flow Fuel Pump - $1600
4Piston 1650CC Injectors - $1400
Hondata Fuel System Upgrade - $2850

Other
Radium Engineering Port Injection Kit - $285
Ultimate Racing In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit - $350
Ultimate Racing Fuel Return Line Kit - $500

Engine Components
Valves/Springs
Ferrea Roller Rocker & Valve Kit - $1900
Ferrea Competition Valves - $424
Ferrea Valve Spring Kit - $695

Pistons
JE FSR - $600
JE FSR Ultra Series - $681
Wiseco Forged HD - $850
JE HD Forged (Designed alongside 4Piston) - $1050

Connecting Rods
Saenz S-Series - $500
Saenz 4340 Performance Series - $880
Saenz 'Dream Automotive Spec' Forged - $1152
4Piston Forged - $1200
Saenz 300M Performance Series - $1300

Engine Rebuild Services
4Piston Cylinder Head Performance Rebuild (Stage 1) - $450
4Piston Race Cylinder Head (Stage 2) - $1450
4Piston Short Block - $3950
4Piston Sleeved Short Block - $5500
4Piston Race Engine - $8300
4Piston 2.3L Race Engine - $10200

Major Product Retailers
These are companies that sell many various parts, with links to their Type R pages. Manufacturers that only sell their own products aren't included here. This list isn't exhaustive.

PRL Motorsports
United Speed Racing
Dream Automotive
Evasive Motorsports
Kamispeed
VividRacing
redline360
procivic
MAPerformance
TDI north
Kaiju Motorsports

That's everything I could find. If I'm missing something, let me know and I'll add it to the list.

Look for the FK8 Product Review Group on Facebook, they always are showing off the latest products available.

Anyways, hope y'all can make some use of this. I'll keep it updated. Please let me know if I'm missing anything or if there's a lower price somewhere.:drive:



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ExVTEC

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As amazing as this post is my mind is blown on how ridiculous it is to fully disable vsa in a car that was intended to be on track.

Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this post.
 
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kefi

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As amazing as this post is my mind is blown on how ridiculous it is to fully disable vsa in a car that was intended to be on track.

Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this post.
Thanks my guy.

There's three different disabled states. Short press, long press, and pedal dance.

I think the reason it takes so much to really REALLY disable it is because it's technically a maintenance mode, thus the blinky. VSA is off to the point that it isn't even making sure the sensor data is valid, which is what you want for the dyno, but probably not the track. It won't throw any safety related (hey dude somethings broke) VSA codes at all as far as I know. It also forces you into sport mode, which is an obvious sign to me that it wasn't meant for the track but rather maintenance and dynoing. The long press is for the track.

Interestingly enough, not doing the pedal dance before dynoing ends up with the parking brake not working. Probably because if the VSA speed sensors have thrown codes and can't be trusted, the car can't know if it can safely engage the parking brake pistons.

Don't use the pedal dance on the track unless you want the high-speed VSA cornering assist disabled too. That's the only thing I'm aware of that actually applies forces to the car (other than ABS) that isn't disabled by the long hold, probably because it doesn't get in the way like all the other features.
 
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hafadaze

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Great post!
 

TypeRNY

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Awesome Post, thank you for the info! Found some information here that I have been looking for!
 
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kefi

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sean465

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wow, can't tell you how much I did been looking for a one stop shop like this, you sir are a gent and I doth my cap
 

                           

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