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amirza786

amirza786

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My Aunt and Uncle don't live in the glamorous part (Sepulveda & Vermont)o_O. They paid about $160k for their 3bd condo in 1997, which they thought was expensive coming from San Antonio lol. It's worth over double that now which is another reason my uncle wants to cash out and move to NC.
Yep, they are sitting on their retirement. Prices are even higher here in Northern Cal. I bought a 2 bedroom townhouse in city called Sunnyvale in 2006 for $500K, sold it in 2015 (one weekend) for $700K and bought a 4 bedroom in San Jose for $650K. Now it's worth nearly 1M! My house has way outperformed my 401K.

BTW, that's not the most glamorous part of Torrance, but it's still an expensive area!
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fabrizzio71

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Hello fellow tuned community,

I wasn’t going to modify my car until out of warranty. I’m approaching 50k miles, but I pulled the trigger on a Ktuner v1.2 from TSP. I’ve been very hesitant to experiment with higher boost due to clutch concerns so I am taking this process one step at a time.

I was very methodical about setting everything up. Before I even got my kTuner, I hacked the headunit and uploaded Tunerview lite. Originally I thought I could pair the Ktuner with the app, and was planning to use my desktop to load tunes from the software. Dragging my laptop out of storage was an ordeal. Since my 12 year old laptop has a broken monitor, I had to use a small tv as the monitor and both require a power outlet so I had to drag power strip and extension cords to an outside outlet and park the car as close to the house as possible. I finally got the ktuner paired with my ECU, just as it started to rain. After hooking my Ktuner to my desktop I started exploring the base maps.

I started with just the factory base calibration. I had checked the rev-hang disable box and flashed the car. Went for a drive and immediately noticed power delivery seemed smoother. However, rev hang seemed the same to me which was weird. I later realized that I had my cruise main switch “on” which was keeping rev hang active.

The next day I went back in Ktuner and made a new map with factory/19.5 dual config. I modified the boost table on the 19.5psi map. I didn’t like how low in rpm it was programmed to hit peak boost. I copied the boost targets from the “factory” map from about 2000-4,000 rpm and put those in. Then I increased them some to try to blend the increase in boost more smoothly. I left 4,000 and up alone. I attached photos of Ktuner’s 19.5 boost map and my 19.5 boost map with adjustments.

On the 19.5 map there’s a dramatic difference from stock. I used to drive an old 3.0 acura V6 and Vtec would activate at 3500 rpm. This power curve reminds me of that, but there is just more of it. The car should have come like this from the factory. I have the TSP tune but have not uploaded it yet as I may be content to keep this current calibration. Power is addictive though.

Comments on rev-hang: With stock tune, it became a habit for me to let off the throttle early by .5-1 sec to allow time for rev hang. Attempting to shift fast between 1 and 2 was never pleasant for me. If I ignored rev hang and shifted fast anyway, I’d always feel bad about using the clutch to bring the revs down quickly. With no rev-hang, if I use my adapted shift method of letting off the gas early, it is not smooth and jerky. However, if I shift with normal timing, it is very smooth and satisfying. The only caveat is at low speed, letting off throttle to coast in gear there is additional engine movement from the quicker transition to vacuum. I love that we can turn rev hang on again on the fly. That’s a great feature.

A few questions:

1. Is it normal for battery voltage to ever go below 14.4-5 while car is running? When I first tuned, and was monitoring parameters while driving, several times I saw voltage go down to 12.2-3 while car was on and stayed there for multiple seconds. Eventually it went back up, and I haven’t seen it do that since.

2. Will altering the boost table without adjusting anything else create a rich fuel issue since I lowered boost slightly from the 19.5 base map in the mid rpm range?

3. What is standard throttle padding in relation to “medium” and “soft”?

4. Thoughts on spark plugs-should I change them early if tuned?

Sorry for such a long post. Excited to join the tuner crowd.

Honda Civic 10th gen Joined the KTuner world 9BD608DD-9421-460B-AAEB-6075A1F7ACFB


Honda Civic 10th gen Joined the KTuner world 019CCE99-5172-48A3-9512-79509FBA6D12
 
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amirza786

amirza786

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Hello fellow tuned community,

I wasn’t going to modify my car until out of warranty. I’m approaching 50k miles, but I pulled the trigger on a Ktuner v1.2 from TSP. I’ve been very hesitant to experiment with higher boost due to clutch concerns so I am taking this process one step at a time.

I was very methodical about setting everything up. Before I even got my kTuner, I hacked the headunit and uploaded Tunerview lite. Originally I thought I could pair the Ktuner with the app, and was planning to use my desktop to load tunes from the software. Dragging my laptop out of storage was an ordeal. Since my 12 year old laptop has a broken monitor, I had to use a small tv as the monitor and both require a power outlet so I had to drag power strip and extension cords to an outside outlet and park the car as close to the house as possible. I finally got the ktuner paired with my ECU, just as it started to rain. After hooking my Ktuner to my desktop I started exploring the base maps.

I started with just the factory base calibration. I had checked the rev-hang disable box and flashed the car. Went for a drive and immediately noticed power delivery seemed smoother. However, rev hang seemed the same to me which was weird. I later realized that I had my cruise main switch “on” which was keeping rev hang active.

The next day I went back in Ktuner and made a new map with factory/19.5 dual config. I modified the boost table on the 19.5psi map. I didn’t like how low in rpm it was programmed to hit peak boost. I copied the boost targets from the “factory” map from about 2000-4,000 rpm and put those in. Then I increased them some to try to blend the increase in boost more smoothly. I left 4,000 and up alone. I attached photos of Ktuner’s 19.5 boost map and my 19.5 boost map with adjustments.

On the 19.5 map there’s a dramatic difference from stock. I used to drive an old 3.0 acura V6 and Vtec would activate at 3500 rpm. This power curve reminds me of that, but there is just more of it. The car should have come like this from the factory. I have the TSP tune but have not uploaded it yet as I may be content to keep this current calibration. Power is addictive though.

Comments on rev-hang: With stock tune, it became a habit for me to let off the throttle early by .5-1 sec to allow time for rev hang. Attempting to shift fast between 1 and 2 was never pleasant for me. If I ignored rev hang and shifted fast anyway, I’d always feel bad about using the clutch to bring the revs down quickly. With no rev-hang, if I use my adapted shift method of letting off the gas early, it is not smooth and jerky. However, if I shift with normal timing, it is very smooth and satisfying. The only caveat is at low speed, letting off throttle to coast in gear there is additional engine movement from the quicker transition to vacuum. I love that we can turn rev hang on again on the fly. That’s a great feature.

A few questions:

1. Is it normal for battery voltage to ever go below 14.4-5 while car is running? When I first tuned, and was monitoring parameters while driving, several times I saw voltage go down to 12.2-3 while car was on and stayed there for multiple seconds. Eventually it went back up, and I haven’t seen it do that since.

2. Will altering the boost table without adjusting anything else create a rich fuel issue since I lowered boost slightly from the 19.5 base map in the mid rpm range?

3. What is standard throttle padding in relation to “medium” and “soft”?

4. Thoughts on spark plugs-should I change them early if tuned?

Sorry for such a long post. Excited to join the tuner crowd.

9BD608DD-9421-460B-AAEB-6075A1F7ACFB.jpeg


019CCE99-5172-48A3-9512-79509FBA6D12.jpeg
This is what I would say to you: Don't modify any boost tables unless you know exactly what you are doing. The same goes for throttle padding. If you do make any modifications, I would monitor fuel trims and knock count. If you are looking for much better performance over the Ktuner base maps, you should purchase TSP's Stage 1 tune (if you bought the Ktuner from them, you would get it for free), which gives you a much better power band all the way through the RPM range. The Ktuner base maps give you a great initial boost at the lower end, but starts to putter out at the higher end.

As far as clutch, as long as you don't go full throttle at low RPM's or in 5th or 6th gear below 2500 RPM or so, clutch will be fine. If you go with TSP's stage 1 tune, if you stick mainly with Maps 1 or 2 and use Map 3 only when doing very spirited driving (using the same principle listed above), clutch should not be an issue. Of course if you are going to track the car a lot or race, than a stage 1 clutch would be advisable
 

fabrizzio71

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Thanks for the reply. Yes, fair point, but remember I modified the boost table to REDUCE boost not increase it. Meaning I am intentionally being safe. As far as I can tell WOT enrichment should not be affected as that doesn’t seem to change based on factory or 19.5 base calibrations. Mentioned in my post, I purchased from TSP so I have their tune, I just have not uploaded it. I would be curious to see what TSP’s boost tables look like for all their tunes. Unfortunately that is not visible. I wish there was a way they could still lock the table but make it visible.

I am monitoring fuel trim and knock value. Knock value never went above .51 and long term fuel trim was between 0 and -2%.

Throttle padding is intended to be adjusted by the end user in conjunction with Rev hang disable. I have it set to standard. My assumption would be that medium and soft throttle padding make the throttle closing more gradual than standard, thus eliminating some of the bucking on off throttle?
 
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amirza786

amirza786

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Thanks for the reply. Yes, fair point, but remember I modified the boost table to REDUCE boost not increase it. Meaning I am intentionally being safe. As far as I can tell WOT enrichment should not be affected as that doesn’t seem to change based on factory or 19.5 base calibrations. Mentioned in my post, I purchased from TSP so I have their tune, I just have not uploaded it. I would be curious to see what TSP’s boost tables look like for all their tunes. Unfortunately that is not visible. I wish there was a way they could still lock the table but make it visible.

I am monitoring fuel trim and knock value. Knock value never went above .51 and long term fuel trim was between 0 and -2%.

Throttle padding is intended to be adjusted by the end user in conjunction with Rev hang disable. I have it set to standard. My assumption would be that medium and soft throttle padding make the throttle closing more gradual than standard, thus eliminating some of the bucking on off throttle?
That's correct, it reduces the bucking effect, at least that is what it is supposed to do. If you like the Ktuner base tunes, you are definitely going to like TSP's stage 1 much better
 


Design

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Thanks for the reply. Yes, fair point, but remember I modified the boost table to REDUCE boost not increase it. Meaning I am intentionally being safe. As far as I can tell WOT enrichment should not be affected as that doesn’t seem to change based on factory or 19.5 base calibrations. Mentioned in my post, I purchased from TSP so I have their tune, I just have not uploaded it. I would be curious to see what TSP’s boost tables look like for all their tunes. Unfortunately that is not visible. I wish there was a way they could still lock the table but make it visible.

I am monitoring fuel trim and knock value. Knock value never went above .51 and long term fuel trim was between 0 and -2%.

Throttle padding is intended to be adjusted by the end user in conjunction with Rev hang disable. I have it set to standard. My assumption would be that medium and soft throttle padding make the throttle closing more gradual than standard, thus eliminating some of the bucking on off throttle?
I think monitoring STFT/LTFT and KR are your best bet when tweaking boost tables. Sounds like things are running as intended. But you can always pull a datalog and ask for more experienced members to weigh in.

Standard throttle padding is the most aggressive transition. Meaning, it dampens the throttle more to force revs to come down more quickly. All three settings will cause some bucking under light throttle in lower gears. That is the side effect of how throttle damping was programmed.

Regarding your question on the plugs, I generally modify maintenance by the same % that output is increased. That applies to both plugs and fluids. It's probably a bit of an overkill. But I like to play things safe. :)

I've been on the fence on whether to grab the TSP S1 Map. How are you liking it compared to your modified base map?
 

ericc191

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I have been using TSP and really enjoy it. Sport mode + Level 2 is perfect.

I am ashamed to admit it, but I got into a little race with someone in a 2019 Accord 2.0T Sport (my previous car) the other day and was sure he would walk on me, but to my surprise, I pulled on him every single time. 40, 50 and 60 rolls. Obviously no off the line for our clutch!
 

fabrizzio71

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I think monitoring STFT/LTFT and KR are your best bet when tweaking boost tables. Sounds like things are running as intended. But you can always pull a datalog and ask for more experienced members to weigh in.

Standard throttle padding is the most aggressive transition. Meaning, it dampens the throttle more to force revs to come down more quickly. All three settings will cause some bucking under light throttle in lower gears. That is the side effect of how throttle damping was programmed.

Regarding your question on the plugs, I generally modify maintenance by the same % that output is increased. That applies to both plugs and fluids. It's probably a bit of an overkill. But I like to play things safe. :)

I've been on the fence on whether to grab the TSP S1 Map. How are you liking it compared to your modified base map?
Thanks for the info and advice about altering maintenance schedule. I’m pretty fastidious about maintenance anyway, so that sounds reasonable to me. The tune increases performance about 10-20% depending on the map used so I’ll take that into account.

I took two data-logs today. I had several periods of WOT in 2nd, 3rd and 4th all the way to redline. Knock Control Value stayed pretty consistent at .49-50. However, there was one period when it shot up to .61. It was a few minutes after running through the gears hard and I was cruising at a slower pace(slower for me) in 6th gear around 55-60 between 10-20% throttle off boost. Finding a way to look at the datalogs was difficult. I could not view them on Tunerview on the headunit as there is not enough memory on that archaic android system to read the file size. I had to download the Google play app (which crashed my headunit-I had to disconnect the battery for 10 mins to fix), then download google drive, then share the .csv to google drive and then look at the files with excel on my desktop.

I discovered that the higher Knock Control value was due to a significant spike in intake air temperature. I wasn’t cruising fast enough after the recent WOT event to cool the intake charge and it became heat-soaked for a bit. I think I will invest in an intercooler at some point.

As of this moment, I haven’t tried the TSP stage 1 map yet, but now that I am comfortable with the datalogging (next time I will make much smaller files) I’ll probably try it soon and will be able to compare the two.
 

ericc191

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I forgot to mention, on 93 octane, my value sits been 0.49 and 0.56 depending on how *spirited* my driving is.

One thing I did notice is the knock count stays around 2-5 until I start WOT and shifting a lot. Then it can get up into the 30s and 40s. I read not to worry about that number as long as my Knock Control stays under 0.60, though.
 

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Alright, between this thread and the Reliability Survey, I finally pulled the trigger for a KTuner V1.2 (put a Windows 10 partition on my Mac, which is sort of a carnal sin in my book, but made an exception). Looking forward to it, though with no where to go until I'm forced to go back to work, I guess I can get it ready...
 


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Are you going to use the base tune 19.5/21? Have any mods on the car?
 

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Are you going to use the base tune 19.5/21? Have any mods on the car?
Think right now was planning to jump right into the TSP Stage 1, sticking with the Map 1 for a while. No bolt-ons currently, but in the future plans. Just started typing up a journal just to keep track of plans, get feedback, etc.
 

fabrizzio71

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Thanks for the info and advice about altering maintenance schedule. I’m pretty fastidious about maintenance anyway, so that sounds reasonable to me. The tune increases performance about 10-20% depending on the map used so I’ll take that into account.

I took two data-logs today. I had several periods of WOT in 2nd, 3rd and 4th all the way to redline. Knock Control Value stayed pretty consistent at .49-50. However, there was one period when it shot up to .61. It was a few minutes after running through the gears hard and I was cruising at a slower pace(slower for me) in 6th gear around 55-60 between 10-20% throttle off boost. Finding a way to look at the datalogs was difficult. I could not view them on Tunerview on the headunit as there is not enough memory on that archaic android system to read the file size. I had to download the Google play app (which crashed my headunit-I had to disconnect the battery for 10 mins to fix), then download google drive, then share the .csv to google drive and then look at the files with excel on my desktop.

I discovered that the higher Knock Control value was due to a significant spike in intake air temperature. I wasn’t cruising fast enough after the recent WOT event to cool the intake charge and it became heat-soaked for a bit. I think I will invest in an intercooler at some point.

As of this moment, I haven’t tried the TSP stage 1 map yet, but now that I am comfortable with the datalogging (next time I will make much smaller files) I’ll probably try it soon and will be able to compare the two.
Just a quick update. I have flashed TSP’s stage 1 tune. Honestly, I was surprised and impressed with their Map 1, “stock tune”. It feels very similar to the 19.5 base map I was on before. Boost is definitely more consistent and actually higher than the factory tune. Boost gauge hits 19psi all day and occasionally 20psi. When looking at data-log, boost targets are following factory parameters in general but ecu is actually commanding 20.1 psi at 5700rpm which was not happening with the Ktuner base factory calib. Of course actual MAP pressure is a bit less due to intercooler pressure drop. Boost does taper beyond 5700 like it does stock. The car is more consistent and enjoyable to drive. I did one pull in map 2 normal mode 19.5 psi tune. There is a little difference, but honestly I am content to stay in Map 1 for the time being.

One question for those who know: why is full throttle actually 113% on TPS sensor. I do have the acuity throttle pedal spacer installed. Is that the reason-the pedal has more travel than stock? Is it reducing output if the sensor goes beyond 100%?
 

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Thought I would jump into the fray here. I've had my 2020 Si Sedan now for a couple of months and recently flashed the car with KTuner v1.2 - purchased it from TSP and got the Stage 1 maps at N/C of course. Overall impression, Holy Balls!!!! Huge difference and I could not be happier.

I drive on Map 2 mostly, between normal and Sport....plenty of power especially from 3500 rpm or so - pulls so much harder than stock. Overall the car just drives so much better. Love the on-the-fly map switching and I leave the KTuner disconnected so that it resets to Map 1 on the next start-up. I like that feature in case my wife ever takes the car, it's somewhat neutered.

The car only has about 1600 miles on it so I'm not overly concerned about the clutch (yet) - I never romp on it in higher gears or below 3500 rpm..... I'm very careful to roll into the boost in those cases.....

I have no other mods and honestly, I don't feel that I need anything more from the motor with this tune. Famous last words I know. No plans to do anything to the exhaust.....been down the drone road too many times in the past and the gain just isn't worth it to me at my age. And for all the shit people talk about the HDMI port look, it really doesn't bother me so all good.

Thinking about springs and some different wheels and tires down the road and that's about it. I think Honda did a great job on the car right out of the gate.

Anyway, love reading other people's experiences and it's nice to be a part of the KTuner/TSP club.

Cheers
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