JMJR Fully 3d printed custom aero kit.

[jamesmcintoshjr]

Thought I would share with the forum as this went from a personal project to making these to offer to the community.

JMJR (@jmjr_dsgn) • Instagram photos and videos


Answers to a few common questions-

Why 3d printed and not just 3d print the master and make molds?
- I hate fiberglass. It's heavy, wavy, cracks and is 100 years old. 3D printed kit is impact resistant, lightweight and shaped on both sides for excellent fitment against the existing panels.

What material? - lip and skirt kit is made from PETG which is basically just PET plastic with a modifier to make it easier to 3d print. It paints and finishes fine provided you use a primer meant for plastic.

The door flare finisher and front bumper intakes are made from a 3d print optimized ASA, which is a standard automotive plastic (e.g. your wing mirror caps)

Painted or raw print? - if you're local to me (Toronto, Canada) I've enlisted a bodyshop to partner with to do the finish and paint. Otherwise I can flat pack these in their individual printed parts into a small box for shipping. The only downside to 3d prints is that there really isn't a printer big enough to do this in one shot that's viable for me, not yet anyways so these are printed in pieces (lip is 7 pieces, skirts are 5).

That being said, these are printed with built in dowels so you just panel bond or expoxy, clamp and then a bit of filler and sanding and paint. The parts are designed to have channels at the seams for a bit of filler that makes blending them away easy.

Mounting? - the Lip has 6 attachment brackets designed to use the factory mouting provisions, and the factory screws on the corners of the stock lip, plus a run of double sided tape should be used on the top of the factory lip. Skirts use the 2 screws front and back on the factory skirts plus double sided tape and one extra mounting point in the middle bottom of the stock skirt, for which I supply well nuts and screws. The rear garnish requires making a couple holes on the inside of the wheel well lip, as well as on the underside for which I also supply well nuts.

Avails? - Takes me a little over a week to make 1 kit. I've got one that's spoken for and 1 more that's almost complete.

 

[typearghhhh]

Looks good

 

[Si_chRis]

Wow, that is a nice looking kit

 

[Physix805]

Thought I would share with the forum as this went from a personal project to making these to offer to the community.

JMJR (@jmjr_dsgn) • Instagram photos and videos


Answers to a few common questions-

Why 3d printed and not just 3d print the master and make molds?
- I hate fiberglass. It's heavy, wavy, cracks and is 100 years old. 3D printed kit is impact resistant, lightweight and shaped on both sides for excellent fitment against the existing panels.

What material? - lip and skirt kit is made from PETG which is basically just PET plastic with a modifier to make it easier to 3d print. It paints and finishes fine provided you use a primer meant for plastic.

The door flare finisher and front bumper intakes are made from a 3d print optimized ASA, which is a standard automotive plastic (e.g. your wing mirror caps)

Painted or raw print? - if you're local to me (Toronto, Canada) I've enlisted a bodyshop to partner with to do the finish and paint. Otherwise I can flat pack these in their individual printed parts into a small box for shipping. The only downside to 3d prints is that there really isn't a printer big enough to do this in one shot that's viable for me, not yet anyways so these are printed in pieces (lip is 7 pieces, skirts are 5).

That being said, these are printed with built in dowels so you just panel bond or expoxy, clamp and then a bit of filler and sanding and paint. The parts are designed to have channels at the seams for a bit of filler that makes blending them away easy.

Mounting? - the Lip has 6 attachment brackets designed to use the factory mouting provisions, and the factory screws on the corners of the stock lip, plus a run of double sided tape should be used on the top of the factory lip. Skirts use the 2 screws front and back on the factory skirts plus double sided tape and one extra mounting point in the middle bottom of the stock skirt, for which I supply well nuts and screws. The rear garnish requires making a couple holes on the inside of the wheel well lip, as well as on the underside for which I also supply well nuts.

Avails? - Takes me a little over a week to make 1 kit. I've got one that's spoken for and 1 more that's almost complete.

the rear spats look so sick. is it possible to get some close up pictures of them ?

 

[CleanFK8]

Definitely, the agree the kit looks sick! More close up would be great.
What's the cost of the total kit?

 

[acidphantom]

Been following the instagram page, ordering one as soon as he’s able to ship to U.S

 

[civicren]

Painted or raw print? - if you're local to me (Toronto, Canada) I've enlisted a bodyshop to partner with to do the finish and paint.

WHat would the shop be? Thanks

 

[jamesmcintoshjr]

Definitely, the agree the kit looks sick! More close up would be great.
What's the cost of the total kit?

Here's a better shot of the spats-

Pricing for the kit is on my insta - JMJR (@jmjr_dsgn) • Instagram photos and videos but complete kit is $2k CAD plus shipping.

Been following the instagram page, ordering one as soon as he’s able to ship to U.S

Hey man, yeah thanks for your patience! I'm about ready and I have one kit coming off the printer almost ready to ship. That being said, I went and got some different colour material so I can print it in the colour closest to your car (for now, white, grey and black, I can order red or blue if necessary) so that if you get a rock chip that goes all the way through the paint, the exposed plastic should hopefully be close to your paint colour enough that it doesn't stand out (current kits are all white at the moment)

DM me on insta and we'll sort it out, I still need to source the packaging. And if you want a kit to match your car which I think is grey it'll take about 10 days to make.

WHat would the shop be? Thanks

the shop is LK Auto in scarborough, who (unlike many shops) are excited about the prospect of 3D printed parts.

 

[jamesmcintoshjr]

I almost forgot to mention I weighed the kit and it breaks down like this-

Lip - 1320g
Sideskirts -690g each
Rear spats - 100g each

Complete kit 2900g ~6.4 lbs.

 

[aerodynamics]

Would love to see something like this for the FK7.

 

[JdubFK8]

I’m interested in the side skirts and rear spats in cw white but am located in California. When will you be able to ship?

 

[Res0zsfa]

In for the rear spats as well

 

[Hondanickx]

That looks great ,must have been a lot of work to get it to fit like that .
I use PETG myself for my MAF housing and airbox test pieces.
How are your mounting tabs holding up on the lip and side skirts ?
PETG rather breaks then bends ,i've had tabs break off so i switched to PLA with a epoxy coating or ASA .

 

[jamesmcintoshjr]

That looks great ,must have been a lot of work to get it to fit like that .
I use PETG myself for my MAF housing and airbox test pieces.
How are your mounting tabs holding up on the lip and side skirts ?
PETG rather breaks then bends ,i've had tabs break off so i switched to PLA with a epoxy coating or ASA .

Thanks! It wasn't too bad as the kit is based off a laser scan done at 2mm accuracy.

If you print PETG enclosed the layer adhesion is very, very strong. If you print it with the fan too high or ambient too low it won't bond properly. I find ASA splits along layer lines even taking the same precautions as PETG (the original prototype was ApolloX, which is just print optimized ASA) I also find PETG is a lot tougher for impacts (again if printed nice and hot) and PLA is sort of a no go based on how poorly in sands in comparison, it's low heat tolerance and it's brittleness.

The lip mounting brackets are holding up just fine, and they use the stock mounting provisions. There are 6 of them in the final lip and it holds very well while also allowing for necessary flex for when you scrape or hit anything.

The sideskirts don't actually have mounting tabs per se, as they fit over the stock skirts, they simply piggyback the stock mounting screws combo'd with double sided tape. There is a provision printed directly into the skirts that allows you to screw into the stock skirt from underneath, but it's optional and only needed if your double sided tape isn't holding or you opted not to use it. (to keep the skirt from flexing away from the car in the middle.)

 

[rallyered225]

Really digging this kit. What's the price range on this?

Sponsored