Jack/Jack Stand Tips?

[MuffinMcFluffin]

If you're just looking to get the car up on stands then you can actually jack from the lower control arm with a floor jack. This way you can easily get some swing on the lever and you won't be taking up the side cill points so you can put the stands there.

So I won't need the ramps, then?

I've never jacked up a car before, so I don't really know what I'm trying to get done haha. Just want to install a CAI and intercooler. Oh, and fog lights.

Sponsored

 

[JT Si]

Thanks.

Now I bought some blue jack stands (also supports three tons) and weren't a part of the recall group. If I am lifting the car up from the front jack point to eventually put it on these two jack stands, and if I need to remove the front bumper to work on what I'm going to work on, I'm neither leaving the jack nor the two blocks underneath those portions of the car, correct? Only the jack stands are supporting it at that point.

Also, should I keep it on the stands while I'm working on the car after removing the bumper, or am I kind of only lifting it to help me remove the bumper (and put it back on)?

Because jacking the car up requires driving onto ramps, wood blocks, or other creative solutions presented in this thread, it's impractical to do anything besides:

Drive car onto ramps
Jack car up
Lower car on jackstands
Perform work
Raise car off jackstands
Lower car onto ramps
Drive car off ramps

Or for the alternative method,

Lift car from front drivers lift point
Lower front driver tire onto wood blocks
Lift car from front passenger lift point
Lower front passenger tire onto wood blocks
Lift front center lift point
Lower car onto jacks
Perform work
Lift front center lift point
Lower both front tires onto wood blocks
Lift car from front passenger lift point
Remove wood block
Lift car from front driver lift point
Remove wood block
Lower car

In both cases, it's far more work than its worth to lower the car mid-work and then do it all again.

Even if you can lift directly from a lower control arm without risking bending it (I wouldn't do it, these stamped steel arms are questionable), it's still more work than its worth to lower the car mid-way. Just leave the car on jack-stands until you're finished, no matter how you lift it.

 

[vtecr]

So I won't need the ramps, then?

I've never jacked up a car before, so I don't really know what I'm trying to get done haha. Just want to install a CAI and intercooler. Oh, and fog lights.

No, you don't "need" them, but maybe they'd be handy to have.

So long as you're putting it on stands then jacking from the lower control arm is fine. Obviously if you were not using stands and wanted to get the wheel off then this would be a problem.
I generally lock the steering wheel to point the tire out and slide my trolley jack in under the control arm, lift it and stick the stands under the cills or at the centre point, depending on what I'm doing.

 

[MuffinMcFluffin]

I think it's making more sense, but I don't know what the lower control arm is.

The reason I'm asking kind of frantically is because I just placed an order on those ramps, and would like to cancel that in time if I can get away with just using a low profile jack to raise it onto jack stands.

And I don't plan on removing the wheels, by the way.

 

[JT Si]

I think it's making more sense, but I don't know what the lower control arm is.

The reason I'm asking kind of frantically is because I just placed an order on those ramps, and would like to cancel that in time if I can get away with just using a low profile jack to raise it onto jack stands.

And I don't plan on removing the wheels, by the way.

To be honest, I have some medical conditions that make it difficult at times to work on my car.

Spending money on some ramps and a jack to make it as easy as possible was 100% justifiable for me. If you can't afford the money in your budget, you need to reconsider owning a car.

The cost of ramps, a jack, and jack stands is miniscule in comparison to the cost of paying for repair, paying a shop to install your mods, etc.

Even paying for oil changes can cost more than buying these tools and doing it yourself, if you have the space, time, and are capable of doing it yourself.

 

[MuffinMcFluffin]

To be honest, I have some medical conditions that make it difficult at times to work on my car.

Spending money on some ramps and a jack to make it as easy as possible was 100% justifiable for me. If you can't afford the money in your budget, you need to reconsider owning a car.

The cost of ramps, a jack, and jack stands is miniscule in comparison to the cost of paying for repair, paying a shop to install your mods, etc.

Even paying for oil changes can cost more than buying these tools and doing it yourself, if you have the space, time, and are capable of doing it yourself.

Who said I couldn't afford it? I said I don't want to spend money on things that I don't have to. Same reason I don't own a pair of pink thongs.

 

[JT Si]

Who said I couldn't afford it? I said I don't want to spend money on things that I don't have to. Same reason I don't own a pair of pink thongs.

There were at least 4 different methods shared in this thread for jacking the front of the car, but you chose mine. I'm sure there was a reason for that, whether it be my handsome face, convincing tone, or the fact that it's the least effort, most reliable way to get the job done short of a lift.

I spent under $300 on the Daytona Yellow jack, jack stands, and ramps.

Unless you're literally only buying these to install an intercooler and then never use them again, they'll pay for themselves easily.

 

[MuffinMcFluffin]

There were at least 4 different methods shared in this thread for jacking the front of the car, but you chose mine. I'm sure there was a reason for that, whether it be my handsome face, convincing tone, or the fact that it's the least effort, most reliable way to get the job done short of a lift.

I entered the thread to ask questions because I couldn't tell if we absolutely could not reach the front jack point without somehow lifting up the front on blocks/ramps, but now I'm hearing about some "lower control arm" where maybe I don't need blocks/ramps? And I'm not talking about that 12-step process, I'm just talking about placing a low-profile jack underneath the front of the car to put it on stands.

I still don't know if I know the answer to that question whether I need the ramps. I'm not frantic about cancelling my order because of the cost, I'm frantic because I hate dealing with online stuff and returns. If I can make it so that it doesn't change hands, I want to get to that ASAP if I can get away with it.

I appreciate all your help, by the way.

 

[JT Si]

I entered the thread to ask questions because I couldn't tell if we absolutely could not reach the front jack point without somehow lifting up the front on blocks/ramps, but now I'm hearing about some "lower control arm" where maybe I don't need blocks/ramps? And I'm not talking about that 12-step process, I'm just talking about placing a low-profile jack underneath the front of the car to put it on stands.

I still don't know if I know the answer to that question whether I need the ramps. I'm not frantic about cancelling my order because of the cost, I'm frantic because I hate dealing with online stuff and returns. If I can make it so that it doesn't change hands, I want to get to that ASAP if I can get away with it.

I appreciate all your help, by the way.

While lifting from the LCA is probably possible, even with a lowered civic, the LCA is not a part that is strong in the lifting direction. It's some stamped steel. I wouldn't lift from it.

Even if you would, the steps would be:
Turn wheel to drivers side
Lift drivers side LCA
Lower drivers side onto jackstand
Turn wheel to passenger side
Lift passenger side LCA
Lower passenger side onto jackstand
Do work
Lift passenger side off jack stand
Lower passenger side onto ground
Turn wheel to drivers side
Lift drivers side off jack stand
Lower drivers side to ground

It does get away with no ramps or wood blocks but I'd advocate for the less effort single lift of the central jack point. Also I really can't stress enough lifting from points that aren't structurally sound or designed for lifting can have potentially negative results.

Then again, if you're only doing it once...

I didn't expect to be lifting my civic every other weekend for one thing or another but now that I have an easy and reliable method to do it that has no real risk to the vehicle, I lift the sucker all the time.

 

[MuffinMcFluffin]

Sounds good. I'll probably stick with the ramps order then haha. Ooh, and I'll throw in a pink thong as well haha.

Now I gotta go back to the red/blue/yellow bit. If I'm only using the jack to put onto stands thereafter, do you think having peace of mind in getting the yellow one should be an essential piece of my investment decision?

 

[JT Si]

Sounds good. I'll probably stick with the ramps order then haha. Ooh, and I'll throw in a pink thong as well haha.

Now I gotta go back to the red/blue/yellow bit. If I'm only using the jack to put onto stands thereafter, do you think having peace of mind in getting the yellow one should be an essential piece of my investment decision?

That's all on you. I wanted the highest quality, most robust version since I also have another, much heavier vehicle to lift and I knew I'd be using it all the time.

If you're brave enough to make the trek to Harbor Freight, they typically have a display with all of the different models of Daytona jack for you to see relative size and construction

 

[RehabJP]

I got these mid-rise ramps from SummitRacing. https://www.bg-racing.co.uk/b-g-racing-mid-rise-vehicle-ramps

They fit the factory 235/40R18s just fine, and I used them on my Malibu with 19x8.5 245/40R19s as well.

I am lowered Swift springs. These Ramps are as tall as they can possibly be without scraping on the way up.

The ramps are also literally just tall enough for me to snake the Harbor Freight Daytona yellow Jack under to the front jack point, so they are the perfect height for people lowered around an inch.

I don't think wider would be a problem unless you're running 255 or 265 wide tires. I wouldn't leave the car on these Ramps for a long period of time regardless of that, they are strictly a temporary measure to get the car onto jack stands and then back off of it.

Ramps are the way to go for the front. Believe me I am a professional mobile mechanic and you can jack up the front on the pinch welds and do it one side at a time it takes forever. Ramps are $40 at auto zone for Rhino Ramps and you drive right up. Just make sure one you are on the ramps that you set the parking brake, turn the car of, set it in 1st gear if it is manual or in Park, and I would chalk the rear tires even if its with a few pieces of 2x4. With ramps anyone can get under the car for most things easy. I mean I am 6' 9" and I have plenty of room under the car on ramps.

 

[MuffinMcFluffin]

That's all on you. I wanted the highest quality, most robust version since I also have another, much heavier vehicle to lift and I knew I'd be using it all the time.

If you're brave enough to make the trek to Harbor Freight, they typically have a display with all of the different models of Daytona jack for you to see relative size and construction

Yup, I was there on Sunday I believe. That's what brought me over to this thread, because I wanted to know why there was a price difference between the red/blue that I saw and whether the 3 1/4" low point of the red one was low enough without a ramp (that's when I found out in this thread that it's not the point itself that's the problem, but rather the handle I guess?).

I'll definitely be going back though. I gotta figure out a place to store this thing when not in use. My garage is pretty full when I gotta fit two cars and all my car wash/detailing materials in there now with a stationary bike, quarantine stock, and typical garage items haha.

 

[MuffinMcFluffin]

Ramps are the way to go for the front. Believe me I am a professional mobile mechanic and you can jack up the front on the pinch welds and do it one side at a time it takes forever. Ramps are $40 at auto zone for Rhino Ramps and you drive right up. Just make sure one you are on the ramps that you set the parking brake, turn the car of, set it in 1st gear if it is manual or in Park, and I would chalk the rear tires even if its with a few pieces of 2x4. With ramps anyone can get under the car for most things easy. I mean I am 6' 9" and I have plenty of room under the car on ramps.

Hmm, so I guess there wouldn't be a need for me to order those other stands and wait two weeks if I could pick these up in store tomorrow for about half the price, yeah? Or there might be something better about the other ones, I'm not really sure.

And would I even need a jack and stands if all I'm trying to do is remove the front bumper, assuming that I won't be crushed by my own car if this can hold it (as it can hold 16,000 lbs) and I set my car in park and chalk the rear tires?

 

[JT Si]

Yup, I was there on Sunday I believe. That's what brought me over to this thread, because I wanted to know why there was a price difference between the red/blue that I saw and whether the 3 1/4" low point of the red one was low enough without a ramp (that's when I found out in this thread that it's not the point itself that's the problem, but rather the handle I guess?).

I'll definitely be going back though. I gotta figure out a place to store this thing when not in use. My garage is pretty full when I gotta fit two cars and all my car wash/detailing materials in there now with a stationary bike, quarantine stock, and typical garage items haha.

I would suggest getting the longest reach, lowest profile version they make. I don't recall which color that is, but while it won't be as hearty as the yellow it will be easier to use on the Civic.

Also, if you've got some typical garage shelves you can nestle it right in and take up practically no space.

Sponsored