It's getting chilly... New Battery

[IronFusion]

I've had my 2017 EX-L for coming up on 4 years. I'm 100% WFH through the year and likely midway through 2021. So, the car has been COVIDling like mad. My battery drained a while ago and that caused me problems with OBDII Emissions Readiness.

Time for a new battery. I do some occasional dragging (not this year though), but still want something reliable.

Anything lighter than an Optima Yellow worth considering?

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[JT Si]

Lighter? No. More reliable? Probably any other brand of AGM if you can find one manufactured less than 6 months ago.

Optimas are known for early failure rates now, long lost is the quality brand of yesteryear.

 

[IronFusion]

Lighter? No. More reliable? Probably any other brand of AGM if you can find one manufactured less than 6 months ago.

Optimas are known for early failure rates now, long lost is the quality brand of yesteryear.

OH, snap. Thanks. Not questioning, I'll take you at word... But the nerd in me would like an article to read about their QA Downfall.

I read that lithium leaves you screwed if you need a jump because they charge differently. I don't see any options that will keep the same 410+ CCA and reduce weight. If I missed something, that's what I'd really like. So throwing weight reduction out, I'd like something that has consistent runtime (tuning/tweaking) and won't go dead if it sits for two weeks.

 

[IronFusion]

I'm looking for something reliable that isn't lead plate, and doesn't add weight. If there is a lower weight option that still provides the cranking amps please let me know.

 

[JT Si]

OH, snap. Thanks. Not questioning, I'll take you at word... But the nerd in me would like an article to read about their QA Downfall.

I read that lithium leaves you screwed if you need a jump because they charge differently. I don't see any options that will keep the same 410+ CCA and reduce weight. If I missed something, that's what I'd really like. So throwing weight reduction out, I'd like something that has consistent runtime (tuning/tweaking) and won't go dead if it sits for two weeks.

Unfortunately there is no article detailing this. Just end user reports. Plentiful failures before 3 years, difficulty acquiring warranty replacement. Many more failures shortly after the warranty is expired.

Gone are the days of Optima batteries lasting 6-10 years.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/optima-batteries-who-makes-them.190550/#post-2886948

Once they were bought by Johnson Controls and their quality tanked from 2005 on, I don't think it ever recovered.

That being said I might still buy one next time I need a battery just to see for myself.

If you buy one it's imperative you buy it somewhere that will do warranty exchanges for you and not push it off to the manufacturer.

Back when I had a motorcycle, Shorai/lithium iron batteries were the rage. Unfortunately they tend to destroy themselves if fully discharged and never recover. They also hate cold temps, often requiring attempting to start and failing to turnover the motorcycle engine and letting the headlamps run for several minutes to warm the battery enough to deliver enough cranking amps to turn it over.

That only works for for motorcycles because if you're riding in weather that cold, you're a crazy bastard (I was.).

I think you can't really do better than an AGM/lead acid for a car because they are so resilient to discharge, poor charging, sitting unused, and cold weather. Any type of "exotic" battery is just going to introduce more complexity and be more fragile than I think most people care to put up with.


Right now I've got an O'reilly Super Start Platinum 51R, which is a rebranded Deka Intimidator AGM. It's a couple pounds heavier than the optima D51R. My car regularly sits for 2 weeks or longer without being used and it has no problem cranking over with plenty of power. I've also done a fairly substantial amount of stereo work, running the stereo with the engine off for longer periods of time without an issue.

You must remember, unless you get a bigger battery all the 51R batteries are small and will have limited reserve capacity.

 

[BrandonSmith]

Just go to costco and get an interstate battery for $75

 

[JO3L]

Just go to costco and get an interstate battery for $75

Just did this last week. Came out to a little over $100 after tax and took my OEM core back a week later for a $15 cash refund.

 

[BrandonSmith]

Just did this last week. Came out to a little over $100 after tax and took my OEM core back a week later for a $15 cash refund.

It starts pretty well doesn’t it? I’m in the south so I don’t get many really cold starts (maybe 30°F on a cold morning) but I noticed the difference right away.

the Costco interstate batteries are not their base model. It’s one of their premium MT line of batteries sold at half the MSRP. And it’s 500 CCA compared to the oem 400.

 

[JO3L]

So far so good yes. California is starting to cool down finally and I could tell the OEM battery was starting to struggle a bit on cold starts in the morning. New battery fires right up though.

Oh and just in case anyone is wondering. The warranty only applies to Costco members so if you cancel your membership for whatever reason you will have to open up a new account to claim any warranty.

 

[fjrman]

Interstate batteries are manufactured by Johnson Controls, now called Clarios.

Interstate Batteries - Wikipedia

Johnson Controls Sells Off Its Automotive Battery Business (cleantechnica.com)

"The actual origin of the manufacturing process for Interstate Batteries is vague. The automotive, truck, and marine batteries are made by Johnson Controls which makes 65% of the automotive, truck, and marine batteries sold in the USA. Johnson Controls also makes the batteries for Wal-Mart and AutoZone. From Louisiana to Southern California the Interstate brand batteries are made by a Johnson Controls manufacturing plant in Monterrey, Mexico. In the other states, the batteries are made by Johnson Controls in the United States."

 

[tacthecat]

Newer cars draw more from your battery. 3-4 years is a good life in the NE or a hot climate.
1) Have your battery tested each time your car is serviced - My Honda dealer does it for free and in most cases without asking.
2) If it fails, or you have to recharge it frequently, replace it with the cheapest one you can find with minimum CCA equaling/exceeding your vehicles requirements. As mentioned above, because of EPA/environmental issues - it's a deadly, nasty business, there are very few manufacturers just different labels being applied.

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