It's Finally Here! The Wunderladen Racing Big Brake Kit!

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

It’s a plastic one that came with the wheels. The hub bore size is 72.6 on the wheel. I took off the hub centric ring and still had the same issue. Maybe I was doing something wrong???

Apologies again for not being able to respond sooner, service was next to nonexistent at the track this weekend. Unfortunately my day job cut into my time this past week for getting the install guide done on the brake kit but I'm pushing to have it done this week!

My guess would be the centering rings you have have a tall chamfer so the ID of the ring never actually meets the hub. I have some cheap $10 aluminum centering rings off Amazon that have no issue with centering the wheel on the hub with our kit.

I prefer centering rings because they do make getting the wheel seated on the car a tad easier but they're not absolutely necessary. Since the mating faces of the lug nuts on the wheel are tapered they will still center the wheel in the same place, it may just take some wiggling around to get fully seated.

Looks nice,
would love to see Wunderladen / joker branding in future designs.

Thank you! We've got plenty more in the pipeline!

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[pinhead66]

Apologies again for not being able to respond sooner, service was next to nonexistent at the track this weekend. Unfortunately my day job cut into my time this past week for getting the install guide done on the brake kit but I'm pushing to have it done this week!

My guess would be the centering rings you have have a tall chamfer so the ID of the ring never actually meets the hub. I have some cheap $10 aluminum centering rings off Amazon that have no issue with centering the wheel on the hub with our kit.

No apologies necessary. We are all busy. I’ll get you some pictures of my current plastic rings when I get a chance. I went ahead and ordered a new set of aluminum rings anyhow from Amazon and hoping that will fit correctly.

Circuit Performance 72.56mm OD to 64.1mm ID Silver Aluminum Hub Centric Rings

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JN0NI6...&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_lstpd_9G84P7WRRG21ZBGDT4D8

 

[pinhead66]

Heres my current plastic ring. Supposed to receive aluminum ones by the end of the week.

 

[pinhead66]

TL;DR is the aluminum ring worked.

Long story is I tried test fitting on the passenger side today that I didn’t touch the first time. Both plastic and aluminum rings worked just fine. Went back to the drivers side and as expected the plastic ring had some trouble. Aluminum ring worked much better. Still can’t tell exactly why and what the differences are but glad it was an easy solution. At least I was able to finish bending the dust shields back on both sides and have great confidence when it’s time for full install. Now just need to find the time to actually do it.

 

[pinhead66]

Was able to get things installed but had to bleed a second time after a day of driving. Bleeding a second time a little bit more bubbles and old fluid came out the front calipers. After that the pedal was rock solid and everything felt very good. I used my motive power bleeder and that just barely fit with the 27won strut bar in place but worked very nicely. Was too lazy to remove it but not a big deal. Install was straight forward and the only noteworthy issue I encountered was having to bend the dust shield for clearance. Also be very cautious with not making contact with the caliper. I now need some touch up paint for a few small nicks from rotor or wheel contact but at least it's not in a visible area. I also used some blue loctite on the bracket to hub bolts for peace of mind.

I'm using the redstuff ceramic pads and they don't need the traditional bed in procedure. EBC just calls for normal driving over 100-150 miles and the break-in coating will do it's magic. Have about 50 miles of mixed city and highway driving so far and the bite is improving with more usage. There's quite a bit of dust in this break-in period but EBC does warn of this for the first few hundred miles. The brake pedal is nice and solid and you can feel the brakes engaging immediately on the first touch. There isn't this small, vague area on initial tip-in like the stock brakes. Best part is there is no noise or squeals. I've read that folks on here with Wilwood kits have issues with loud squealing when coming to a stop. I used to have a custom Wilwood kit on a prior vehicle and had to dump the kit after only a few weeks due to this same issue. So very glad this is not a problem with the EBC components. So far very satisfied with the kit and would love to hear other owners give their impressions.

 

[keller]

Was able to get things installed but had to bleed a second time after a day of driving. Bleeding a second time a little bit more bubbles and old fluid came out the front calipers. After that the pedal was rock solid and everything felt very good. I used my motive power bleeder and that just barely fit with the 27won strut bar in place but worked very nicely. Was too lazy to remove it but not a big deal. Install was straight forward and the only noteworthy issue I encountered was having to bend the dust shield for clearance. Also be very cautious with not making contact with the caliper. I now need some touch up paint for a few small nicks from rotor or wheel contact but at least it's not in a visible area. I also used some blue loctite on the bracket to hub bolts for peace of mind.

I'm using the redstuff ceramic pads and they don't need the traditional bed in procedure. EBC just calls for normal driving over 100-150 miles and the break-in coating will do it's magic. Have about 50 miles of mixed city and highway driving so far and the bite is improving with more usage. There's quite a bit of dust in this break-in period but EBC does warn of this for the first few hundred miles. The brake pedal is nice and solid and you can feel the brakes engaging immediately on the first touch. There isn't this small, vague area on initial tip-in like the stock brakes. Best part is there is no noise or squeals. I've read that folks on here with Wilwood kits have issues with loud squealing when coming to a stop. I used to have a custom Wilwood kit on a prior vehicle and had to dump the kit after only a few weeks due to this same issue. So very glad this is not a problem with the EBC components. So far very satisfied with the kit and would love to hear other owners give their impressions.

Thanks for posting this, very nice pictures! Your right side axle nut seems to have moved a bit. Is that right? Also, can you use a rotor screw or the holes don't align?

I love that this caliper has that hex pin to hold the pads in place - it's a PITA to have to hammer the pins in and out on the Type R brembos. However, I have a hard time removing the inner pad from these APracing based calipers. Is there an easy way to do that?

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

Was able to get things installed but had to bleed a second time after a day of driving. Bleeding a second time a little bit more bubbles and old fluid came out the front calipers. After that the pedal was rock solid and everything felt very good. I used my motive power bleeder and that just barely fit with the 27won strut bar in place but worked very nicely. Was too lazy to remove it but not a big deal. Install was straight forward and the only noteworthy issue I encountered was having to bend the dust shield for clearance. Also be very cautious with not making contact with the caliper. I now need some touch up paint for a few small nicks from rotor or wheel contact but at least it's not in a visible area. I also used some blue loctite on the bracket to hub bolts for peace of mind.

I'm using the redstuff ceramic pads and they don't need the traditional bed in procedure. EBC just calls for normal driving over 100-150 miles and the break-in coating will do it's magic. Have about 50 miles of mixed city and highway driving so far and the bite is improving with more usage. There's quite a bit of dust in this break-in period but EBC does warn of this for the first few hundred miles. The brake pedal is nice and solid and you can feel the brakes engaging immediately on the first touch. There isn't this small, vague area on initial tip-in like the stock brakes. Best part is there is no noise or squeals. I've read that folks on here with Wilwood kits have issues with loud squealing when coming to a stop. I used to have a custom Wilwood kit on a prior vehicle and had to dump the kit after only a few weeks due to this same issue. So very glad this is not a problem with the EBC components. So far very satisfied with the kit and would love to hear other owners give their impressions.

If I don't hear back by EOB tomorrow on a color code or touch up paint I'll give EBC a ring to speed things up. I've been swamped with my day job lately but still hammering away at the install guide when time allows! Glad to hear it's working great otherwise, and when you're done with your bed in if you could leave a review on the site it'd be immensely helpful. I hate asking for reviews but it goes a long way with helping us get our name out there. Thanks

I love that this caliper has that hex pin to hold the pads in place - it's a PITA to have to hammer the pins in and out on the Type R brembos. However, I have a hard time removing the inner pad from these APracing based calipers. Is there an easy way to do that?

Yes, spring clips are a pain on many OE Brembo calipers. I've found it easy to remove both side pads if you use a flathead screwdriver in the center slot of the pad material as a lever and use the pad to push the pistons back in. I'm still waiting to hear some details from EBC on their 6 pot calipers but hopefully I'd like to offer a similar upgrade for the CTR folks!

 

[keller]

Yes, spring clips are a pain on many OE Brembo calipers. I've found it easy to remove both side pads if you use a flathead screwdriver in the center slot of the pad material as a lever and use the pad to push the pistons back in.

Thanks, Austin. It's not pushing the pistons back in that I find difficult, actually. It's how to grab the inside pad and pull it from the caliper after the pistons were retracted. The outside pad is easy, I can just push it out with my fingers, instead of pulling. The inside pad I need to somehow grab it and pull. It's even harder when the pad is close to full thickness. How do you do it then?

I'm still waiting to hear some details from EBC on their 6 pot calipers but hopefully I'd like to offer a similar upgrade for the CTR folks!

If I could vote on that, I'd rather have your expertise trying to market an effective cooling solution. I'm not doing a cooldown lap every other lap because of my brakes, unfortunately.

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

Thanks, Austin. It's not pushing the pistons back in that I find difficult, actually. It's how to grab the inside pad and pull it from the caliper after the pistons were retracted. The outside pad is easy, I can just push it out with my fingers, instead of pulling. The inside pad I need to somehow grab it and pull. It's even harder when the pad is close to full thickness. How do you do it then?

If I could vote on that, I'd rather have your expertise trying to market an effective cooling solution. I'm not doing a cooldown lap every other lap because of my brakes, unfortunately.

With the pads in our kit the screw driver does a decent job of wedging itself in the pad so you can just pull it out, but in most cases I can push them out with my fingers. On OE calipers I'll usually use a hook shaped pic on one of the holes that the pins go through to pull the pad out.

I've thought long about how cooling can be improved but none of the ideas I've had are simple solutions. I'm working on something to help with FL5 guys but it's a body part so won't work on the FK8. I did talk with @AlphaDigital about removing the factory fan shroud and just running a single slim fan like a high flow Spal as a means to reduce restriction on the backside of the radiator but not sure how much of a difference it'd make.

If I had an FK8 my first mod to help cooling would be either adding a vent to the stock hood or getting an aftermarket hood with a correctly located vent.

 

[pinhead66]

Thanks for posting this, very nice pictures! Your right side axle nut seems to have moved a bit. Is that right? Also, can you use a rotor screw or the holes don't align?

The 350z rotor doesnt utilize a rotor screw to hold it in place. So you do lose that. I had to buy an impact driver just to get the oem rotor off. Probably will never use that tool again…lol

As far as the axle nut, the dealer did replace my half shaft a few years ago so they were the only ones who would have removed the nut. Besides them not pinching it into the recess, it looks the same compared to the left side??? First pic is the right, the other two are the left.

 

[pinhead66]

If I don't hear back by EOB tomorrow on a color code or touch up paint I'll give EBC a ring to speed things up. I've been swamped with my day job lately but still hammering away at the install guide when time allows! Glad to hear it's working great otherwise, and when you're done with your bed in if you could leave a review on the site it'd be immensely helpful. I hate asking for reviews but it goes a long way with helping us get our name out there. Thanks

Thanks Austin! Review is already up.

 

[keller]

I had to buy an impact driver just to get the oem rotor off. Probably will never use that tool again…lol

Yes, that screw can be a pain. First time removing that I stripped the screw head and had to dremel it out haha.

As far as the axle nut, the dealer did replace my half shaft a few years ago so they were the only ones who would have removed the nut. Besides them not pinching it into the recess, it looks the same compared to the left side???

That pinching is a backup of sorts in case the nut moves. They should have flattened the original one before unscrewing the nut and do it again afterwards. Btw, was your half shaft replaced because of a leaking bearing?

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

Thanks Austin! Review is already up.

Thank you so much!

As for your axle nut it looks like the dealership torqued it tighter than the factory, which is good, tighter axle nuts help wheel bearings live longer lives. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stake the nut into the slot on the axle with a hammer and chisel though just to make sure it doesn't loosen.

 

[fngslim]

Thank you so much!

As for your axle nut it looks like the dealership torqued it tighter than the factory, which is good, tighter axle nuts help wheel bearings live longer lives. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stake the nut into the slot on the axle with a hammer and chisel though just to make sure it doesn't loosen.

Any chance of making a kit for 11th gen si/ Integra?

 

[86salmon]

Any chance of making a kit for 11th gen si/ Integra?

If I recall correctly, Paragon said they have the same brake setup

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