Issues with high output alternator.

[Apophis]

Anyone done a high output alternator install? I bought one from brand x and everytime I install it all my dash lights stay on, once I go back to stock everything is fine again. I've done the big three, and I'm running a limitless lithium 45ah in the trunk front battery delete.

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[charleswrivers]

Anyone done a high output alternator install? I bought one from brand x and everytime I install it all my dash lights stay on, once I go back to stock everything is fine again. I've done the big three, and I'm running a limitless lithium 45ah in the trunk front battery delete.

Just spitballing... what voltage output is the alternator producing? Are you running it with the proper pulley so it is spinning at the correct speed? Most cars all idle around the same rate... but the alternators may use a little differently sized pulleys. I think most do a 2:1-3:1. Still... if you reused the OEM, it might not be spinning fast enough. Do the lights clear as you raise RPMs? If so, this would pretty much show the pulley is incorrect.

The other thing, I’m not sure if there’s a permanent magnet in the OEM and the aftermarket needs an excitation signal to flash it’s field. It’s kind of generator 101... but not all things are made exactly the same.

Edit: here’s a bit on how most alternators retain residual magnetism but if they’re on the shelf awhile they’ll lose it and, upon install... they won’t work. You can replace them... or give the field a flash and restore it. Afterwards, the residual magnetism is sustained between the car running. It isn’t a proper permanent magnet... but it’ll act like one so long as you don’t do something like swap fuel leads. I see it on big generators in the navy. Before you go fooling around... I’d contact the manufacturer of the alternator though.

http://www.delcoremy.com/the-latest/2013/march/tech-tip-flash-the-field

 

[Apophis]

No using a different pulley, Jonathan Patrick at Brand X built me the alt, also no even when raising the rpms the lights stay on, the voltage is 15v with the aftermarket alt

 

[charleswrivers]

No using a different pulley, Jonathan Patrick at Brand X built me the alt, also no even when raising the rpms the lights stay on, the voltage is 15v with the aftermarket alt

Well, at least it’s working!

Last suggestion... 15v seems to be on the high side. Did you check your voltage with the stock alternator? I thing high 13s/mid-14s is the most I’ve ever seen an alternator output. I don’t suppose this thing has got an adjustable regulator? I doubt it... but if it’s a custom piece... it’s worth asking.

 

[charleswrivers]

Looked a little more. I don’t know if the battery has its own stand alone charging equipment. Still one thing to consider: is the Lion battery a 3 or 4 cell? Lion range around 3.6-4.2v or so... low to fully charged.

A 3 cell at 4.2v is 12.6v. You’d be wildly overcharging the Lion battery at 15v as each cell is taking 5v.

A 4 cell being charged at 15v only would charge each cell to 3.75v... though undercharging a Lion doesn’t hurt it (they ship at 40% as memory serves, as its best for shelf life) but you’d not be getting nearly what it has to offer. Still... I don’t think any cars electronics will take well over 15v and enjoy it. Looking at some old 18650 data I had run across awhile ago and looked back on... it’s probably in the realm of 25-50% charged. Great for battery longevity... but you’re only working w/about 1/2 your mah rating.

Just something to consider. That specific battery type needs an alternator/charging system properly rated for it. I assume it cost a pile of money and you sure don’t want to kill it.

 

[Apophis]

No adjustable regulator, it's a 280a alt, I'm running 6k watts. Stock alt I'm running anywhere from 12.8 to 14.5

 

[charleswrivers]

No adjustable regulator, it's a 280a alt, I'm running 6k watts. Stock alt I'm running anywhere from 12.8 to 14.5

You’ll probably never be able to put enough load for what’s on the car to probably get enough voltage droop to get it back towards the mid-14 volt range... but I’d try none the less as it’s free to try. Run the car with all electronics operating... if you have a battery load tester... put it on. If not but you have your original battery and jumper cables, hook it up. Not sure if the lights lock in so if you get enough Vdroop to make it get back to the mid-14 range... the light would clear or if you have to turn off/back on the car.

In the end... I’d still contact who you got it from. My guess is the voltage is too high. Alternator regulators can fail high... and I’d imagine the light show on the dash is telling you something is wrong. If the quantifiable change is higher voltage you’re reading... then that’s what the car is seeing as well. It may just be too much. High output alternators don’t need to run at high voltages... they need to be able to supply more current at the same voltage... with the windings and heat dissipation to do so.

 

[josby]

Is the unit you bought marketed as being compatible with the Civic? Since the computer tells the factory alternator to stop producing electricity much of the time (to save fuel), it might be the computer freaking out when the aftermarket alternator isn't responding the way it expects it to.

 

[Apophis]

Is the unit you bought marketed as being compatible with the Civic? Since the computer tells the factory alternator to stop producing electricity much of the time (to save fuel), it might be the computer freaking out when the aftermarket alternator isn't responding the way it expects it to.

Yes it is, according to the builder the only thing that should be on is the charging system light.

 

[josby]

Ah, that does make sense, and makes it seem odd that it would light up everything else on the dash. The voltage being too high seems like the only likely explanation to me, too.

 

[curt d]

Please keep us posted. I was looking to use BrandX or Singer in the spring,

 

[Jmcarls20]

Any updates? I just had one built from singer and I'm having the same issues. (Singer is awesome btw he has been super helpful)

 

[Apophis]

Yes we got it figured out, so you cant bypass, it will still be pcm controlled, we had to change the plug type back to a stock plug instead of trying to run a bypass that brand x and all the others come with. Also their is no belt that's a 7 rib .5 smaller, you have to run a 6 rib belt

 

[Jmcarls20]

Yes we got it figured out, so you cant bypass, it will still be pcm controlled, we had to change the plug type back to a stock plug instead of trying to run a bypass that brand x and all the others come with. Also their is no belt that's a 7 rib .5 smaller, you have to run a 6 rib belt

Holy shit my friend thank you so much! What's your ho alternator for? I'm hoping to push two w6's and a 1200/1 ?

 

[Apophis]

2 FI Q neo 12s soon to a sundown nsv4, I'm running 6k watts.

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