Is this enough of a gap/bad clamp to cause a boost leak?

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Did the PRL FMIC install this weekend, holds boost, but trims are slightly wonky and boost flickers just a tiny bit. Could this be the cause? The left side looks off.
Honda Civic 10th gen Is this enough of a gap/bad clamp to cause a boost leak? 0930191756c
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As long as that clamp is on nice and tight, I doubt it'll be a problem. Is there supposed to be that much excess?
 
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We fixed it in any case. I'm not sure if I even have boost leak. I have positive fuel trims (STFT +2-5) at idle, leading to LTFT that veeeeeeery slowly creeps up at idle, and negative fuel trims (STFT -10-15) for a split second at WOT.
 
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So, turns out I'm just a giant worry-wort, I believe. I think the slightly lower boost levels are from the colder air and increased airflow. My TCTarget levels pretty well match the boost. And I think the WOT stuff was probably there all along. I'll pull some good clean 1-2-3-4 gear pulls with idle and cruising for all to peruse just in case. Stay tuned! (Haha)
 

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Mine has been acting a bit of a fool as far as trims go recently because of the dramatic temp swings recently in my area. Needed a long cruise and some check on things wot pulls lol
 


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Mine has been acting a bit of a fool as far as trims go recently because of the dramatic temp swings recently in my area. Needed a long cruise and some check on things wot pulls lol
May I ask you what your trims are normally? LTFT and STFT. Normal Highway cruising. WOT. Heavy traffic driving
 

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May I ask you what your trims are normally? LTFT and STFT. Normal Highway cruising. WOT. Heavy traffic driving
Honda Civic 10th gen Is this enough of a gap/bad clamp to cause a boost leak? Screenshot_20190918-103347_Hondata
Honda Civic 10th gen Is this enough of a gap/bad clamp to cause a boost leak? Screenshot_20190824-160156_Hondata
Honda Civic 10th gen Is this enough of a gap/bad clamp to cause a boost leak? Screenshot_20190802-212129_Hondata


All separate days screenshots when it was hot all the time.

Now it's adding more ltrim +2 and strim pulling -2/-5 mostly at idle. It's definitely weather changing related and I expect it to "settle" closer to zero again in time. We will see. Im pretty brutal about them lol
 

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Screenshot_20190918-103347_Hondata.jpg
Screenshot_20190824-160156_Hondata.jpg
Screenshot_20190802-212129_Hondata.jpg


All separate days screenshots when it was hot all the time.

Now it's adding more ltrim +2 and strim pulling -2/-5 mostly at idle. It's definitely weather changing related and I expect it to "settle" closer to zero again in time. We will see. Im pretty brutal about them lol
Those are really nice numbers I am very jealous lol from a previous post that you helped someone you explained how to tune AFM step by step. I've been using your procedure. But when I am driving on the highway or normal street driving or WOT my LTFT seem to be around 0.8/ -0.8 but when I am driving in traffic hours LTFT goes up to -5 -6 . And my STFT varies between +6 to -6 . LTFT does go back down slowly once I start driving normal and there's less traffic. Your opinion is this normal?
 

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Those are really nice numbers I am very jealous lol from a previous post that you helped someone you explained how to tune AFM step by step. I've been using your procedure. But when I am driving on the highway or normal street driving or WOT my LTFT seem to be around 0.8/ -0.8 but when I am driving in traffic hours LTFT goes up to -5 -6 . And my STFT varies between +6 to -6 . LTFT does go back down slowly once I start driving normal and there's less traffic. Your opinion is this normal?
Yes that is completely normal from what I have seen.
 


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Thanks! It seems like you are the pro at this lol
Lol thanks but I am not an expert I just have been through a lot of persistent trial and error to get the results I wanted....just so happens to work well. Not a lot of guidance elsewhere. I saw your post on the hondata forum about the negative numbers and I don't agree with what they said. I may try manipulating those at some point. For example: what happens if they are zeroed? My guess would be bad results. What about the super super light throttle input areas where the car is in vacuum and diverter valve is open? Could this be when its operating in the negative numbers? More than likely....diverter valve is reversing flow through the compressor inlet. Mine pulls s trim down lower and lower the more I am letting off the gas during super slow (just maintaining speed basically) when load is the lightest. I believe the adjusting the negative numbers may help with this (may shift the lower numbers down to the zero point closer to the correct frequency.) I am not at all sure about this and wish we could get an answer without me causing any potential problems on my own but alas, its how I have learned just about everything else lol.
 
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Went for a cruise, and in the heat it behaves as before, and once under speed and the IATs drop, boost does slightly too, under MAP and TCCommand, so I think it's just the first time I'm seeing cold air compared to ambient haha. The fuel trims are doing exactly what they should be, reaching the target AFRs in a quick fashion, trending when temps or air density change for long periods of time. Still working on getting a clean log set of both conditions for other worry-worts to pore over
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