Si Installing ACT Clutch and Flywheel

Memogiyi

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You could remove the CDV if you want easy enough since you are taking off the Slave Cylinder anyway just don't push the piston through the boot like I did putting it back in.
Thanks. What would be the benefit of deleting the CDV?
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SleepyCivic

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Thanks. What would be the benefit of deleting the CDV?
The cdv regulates fluid flow through the slave cylinder. Or rather it bottle necks. Honda says it’s there to reduce drivetrain stress, most people on here deduce that it’s mainly for the duel mass flywheel and a more civilized feel. If you remove it the clutch will behave more true to the speed of your pedal input. I got rid of mine and there’s no going back, but if you’re used to how you time your clutch release then there’s no need. More of a preference I think.
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Memogiyi

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The cdv regulates fluid flow through the slave cylinder. Or rather it bottle necks. Honda says it’s there to reduce drivetrain stress, most people on here deduce that it’s mainly for the duel mass flywheel and a more civilized feel. If you remove it the clutch will behave more true to the speed of your pedal input. I got rid of mine and there’s no going back, but if you’re used to how you time your clutch release then there’s no need. More of a preference I think.
my 2cents.
Thanks for the explanation! I’m going to keep mine in.

I actually debated back and fourth on switching to a smf as dmf do tend to fail more and can’t be resurfaced, but I also read that it’s there to protect the drivetrain. So to be safe I’ll keep the dmf and just add a stronger clutch.
 
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Benster

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Thanks for the explanation! I’m going to keep mine in.

I actually debated back and fourth on switching to a smf as dmf do tend to fail more and can’t be resurfaced, but I also read that it’s there to protect the drivetrain. So to be safe I’ll keep the dmf and just add a stronger clutch.
It's there to make the clutch easier to use for the everyday drivers and smoother. It's not to make the drivetrain last longer by any means. A good single plate clutch will do the same thing, look at all the 90's and older cars. Most of them last 200k miles+ on a clutch. Dual mass flywheels are just able to be smoother at the cost of being a lot heavier, but most people don't race their cars so they don't notice it, just that the car is easier to learn how to drive.

I just got my car from the garage today after the ACT street clutch was installed and while you definitely feel it's an aftermarket clutch, it's not in a bad way. The clutch pedal is stiffer, but I'd say it's perfect now as you feel what's happening with the engine now and not at all hard on the leg. The clutch engagement window is about half the distance as stock so it does engage a bit rougher since the pressure plate has more pressure but it's easily manageable once you get used to it. The lighter flywheel is felt but not as much as I thought I would. You feel it revs up faster and revs down slightly faster but not much(rev hang was disabled on those tests). There is still enough weight to the flywheel that I don't have to overly rev the engine to launch normally, maybe 15% more than stock.

I just got the car back so I didn't get on it hard but I did get it to 5500-6k and didn't experience lock out yet. I feel a tiny bit more resistance to get it in gear at higher rpms but it's not locking me out yet and I was only at 50% throttle too. I'll post a review in a few weeks when I break in the clutch enough and load a proper tune, I'll only be running the 15psi ktuner base map in the meantime to help the clutch break-in properly.

I didn't get the mechanic to remove the cdv either and I will buy and install Emans cmc when I can get my hands on it just as precaution.

Also, I looked at the stock pressure plate and flywheel and there was a lot of overheat marks and chatter spots. The clutch has started slipping about 40k km ago too so I think it was about time it got done. Was able to get it done for about 900$CA including a re-alignment.
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