Injen Intake for 10th Gen 2016 Civic Turbo: Huge Power Gains!

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procivic

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Any hope of this becoming available for us folks in states that require a CARB EO#? Or is that too much red tape to cut through?
I believe Injen submits all their new intakes for CARB approval, and this one shouldn't be any different. In reality, now-a-days if an intake does not throw a check engine light, it should not affect emissions at all. The newer ECUs have so many different sensors and pay close attention to each one. However, legally you still need that CARB EO #.
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1. What would be the cost to install this, typically?
2. Any changes in sound?
 
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As far as cold air intake installs go, this one is pretty easy. It's definitely easier than the previous generation Civic Si, where you had to relocate the battery with a supplied bracket and hardware.

For this new 1.5T intake, the only kind of tough thing you need to do is remove the front bumper, which in reality is easier than you think. We have a video on how to do it here on a 2014 Civic:



If you want to pay a shop to do it, I would imagine it would take an hour to 1.5 hours, so probably around $90 to $135 or so.

Yes, there is a pretty decent difference in the sound and you will be able to hear the turbo better.
 
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WhatTheFun

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Power is never measured directly. You have a speed sensor and a torque sensor*on a dyno.

power is then calculated by those two parameters.

Hp = torque (lb-ft)*RPM/5252

kW = torque (Nm)*rpm/9550

*(some Dynos have a direct torque sensor, some calculate torque based on acceleration rate of an inertia... But regardless it is a way to measure torque)
 

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so if torque*rpm/constant tells you how much work the engine is doing, torque*dyno speed/constant must tell you much work the car is doing?
 


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Yes Injen will be releasing a short ram that costs less. I don't think the power gains will be quite as good, but given this is a turbo car, like others mentioned, the cold air is not quite as important since it goes through the intercooler anyways.

Great work Injen on one of the first CAI for the 1.5T!

I just wanted to say to maybe clear some things up that the reason the graph could look like it was "moved" is because the turbo is allowed to produce boost earlier with less restriction. Also a CAI does help on turbo engines even if it has a intercooler as cooler air increases compressor efficiency.
 

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The hate on this is so funny. K&n is similar. Some cars they claim 5hp others 20 hp. This is a restricted turbo engine. Its possible an intake could open up that much hp. I ordered mine. Ive had an injen intake and it really got me some good gains on my acura rsx. Anyone concerned with blowin their motor from water needs to chill out. Very rarely do you come across water with that much depth that your entire front bumper up to your headlights are underwater. I had that CAI on a lot of my cars not one problem. I live in nj so its not like I have great weather here year round. I do think that a cold air intake doesnt help as much on a turbo engine as it would a na engine but i still think it helps nonetheless. Im going to go short ram and see how it runs but I kno ill end up going to the CAI. Ill post videos and get it to a dyno when hondata releases their flashpro.
 
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I'm not sure if this post was targeted toward me or someone else but none the less.

Again, all this company has done is make a heavier casting of the original intake manifold, claim to have "patented" it, and put it online for $300. Intakes rarely if ever make any appreciable difference in terms of power output because they are so rarely, if ever, the bottleneck of the system. Even going from the standard 3.6 box on the 911 to the much larger and open design of the RS gains at best 0.5-1%, and that's on an engine that pulls in 3-4x as much cold air as this system does.
Are we looking at the same product? This thing isn't cast, nor is it an intake manifold. Am I missing something?
 

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Well the two airflows never mix - they're kept separate from each other. The reason for the intercooler is that the exhaust gases heat up the turbo, which the "cold air" then passes through and thus too becomes heated. The intercooler cools back down the "cold air," thus allowing the engine to run more efficiently. The intake is necessary as you want to select where the air is coming from, as grabbing it after its passed through the radiators and the engine block would substantially increase its temperature. It also allows for the placement of flow sensors, and air filters, to prevent debris and liquid from entering into the engine.
Most of the heating that occurs to the intake charge is actually from the process of the air being compressed, not from convection heating as the air travels through the turbo.
 


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Most of the heating that occurs to the intake charge is actually from the process of the air being compressed, not from convection heating as the air travels through the turbo.
Was going to say the same thing. The air is not going to warm up very much if at all while in pre-turbo intake.
 

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Was going to say the same thing. The air is not going to warm up very much if at all while in pre-turbo intake.
One can get pretty significant reductions in temperature depending on where the air is pulled from. I've seen 50+ degree deltas before.

I wish that the info presented here showed intake air temperature at the intake manifold for both configurations.

Does anyone know if the 1.5t motor uses a knock sensor, and if so how active it is in reducing timing? If the system does, and the CAI shown makes a pretty significant reduction in air temperature, the power gains shown could be the result of the car advancing timing based on what the knock sensor has to say. Colder air will be more resistant to pre-ignition, which allows for more advanced timing, which tends to bump up power(to a point). It may not be as simple as a denser air charge or reduced flow restrictions on the intake side.
 
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First off, anyone else use Firefox? I'm getting a strange Web Forgery page when clicking on that link...I think it's fine, just really strange.

In any case, Injen used a Dynojet dyno and Hondata typically used a Dynapack dyno. A Dynapack dyno is hooked to the hubs of the car so there are less mechanical power losses in play. A Dynojet simply uses rollers that the car sits ontop of, and will typically give you more realistic readings on how much power is actually making it down to the tires of the car. However, there are differences even among the same type of dyno, depending on how each one is configured and maintained. Some dynos read low, others high. The most important thing to keep in mind is that when you test a car for power gains, you just want to use the same exact dyno and do it on the same day. That helps to eliminate as many variables as possible.

I'm not sure exactly what dyno Hondata used for the claimed 177 hp, or if they used SAE correction, etc. We really need to see the graph. I think they are waiting on getting a manual transmission so the graph looks cleaner. The claimed 177 hp on the CVT model they have could be the top of a "Curly Q" near max RPMs, and not really representative of peak sustained power.
 
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The hate on this is so funny. K&n is similar. Some cars they claim 5hp others 20 hp. This is a restricted turbo engine. Its possible an intake could open up that much hp. I ordered mine. Ive had an injen intake and it really got me some good gains on my acura rsx. Anyone concerned with blowin their motor from water needs to chill out. Very rarely do you come across water with that much depth that your entire front bumper up to your headlights are underwater. I had that CAI on a lot of my cars not one problem. I live in nj so its not like I have great weather here year round. I do think that a cold air intake doesnt help as much on a turbo engine as it would a na engine but i still think it helps nonetheless. Im going to go short ram and see how it runs but I kno ill end up going to the CAI. Ill post videos and get it to a dyno when hondata releases their flashpro.
The water doesn't have to go up to your headlights... All it takes is one blow through of standing water with the level at the bottom of the bumper where the filter is.

For someone like me who lives in Arizona, when it rains hard here, we get bad flooding, with tons of standing water. Not worth the small performance increase over a short ram.
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